best way to replace rear wheel bearings
04-20-2010, 11:39 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
best way to replace rear wheel bearings
1988 auto
Using the search, I've read a lot of threads on how best to replace the rear wheel bearings. Some people remove the half shaft, some don't, ditto the ABS sensor.
I have good quality new wheel bearings AND the teflon coated washer that is supposed to reduce clicking noises.
101 Projects for your Corvette describes the bearing replacement like this -
Is that basically correct?
I've read that the halfshaft can be left in place and the torx bolts can be got at with a 6" extension- I also read it needs to be a long torx 55mm not short- also good quality!!
I've also read that the nut should be done up to 200ft lbs not the 164ft lbs in the manual
I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who has done the job
Using the search, I've read a lot of threads on how best to replace the rear wheel bearings. Some people remove the half shaft, some don't, ditto the ABS sensor.
I have good quality new wheel bearings AND the teflon coated washer that is supposed to reduce clicking noises.
101 Projects for your Corvette describes the bearing replacement like this -
Rear Wheel bearing replacement from 101m Projects –
1 Remove ABS sensore to prevent damage
2 Remove caliper assembly tie out of way
Make sure to unbolt caliper bracket mounts, not bolts that connect caliper to bracket – (I don’t know what that means)
3 remove brake rotor
4 remove cotter pin (36mm) and washer from brake assembly
5 Mark half shaft so it can be replaced same position
6 Remove UJj straps and drop half shaft
7. Undo three 55mm torx bolts that hold bearing in
Refit
1 Tighten torx bolts to 66ftlbs
2 Fit new thin Teflon coated washers on splined area of half shaft
Must fit up flush to the inside. If there is a gap they are on backwards
Put a little grease on both sides. Washers should fit directly against the bearing
3 Install halfshaft, leave caps off
4 Place caliper bracket and bearing on rear spindle- lube splines with anti seize grease
5 Install spindle washer and nut
6 Tighten nut to 164 ft lbs- get it tight on car and finish when wheels on ground
7 Replace nut retainer and fit
8 Replace brake rotor
9 Install caliper
10 Install abs sensor new cotter pin
1 Remove ABS sensore to prevent damage
2 Remove caliper assembly tie out of way
Make sure to unbolt caliper bracket mounts, not bolts that connect caliper to bracket – (I don’t know what that means)
3 remove brake rotor
4 remove cotter pin (36mm) and washer from brake assembly
5 Mark half shaft so it can be replaced same position
6 Remove UJj straps and drop half shaft
7. Undo three 55mm torx bolts that hold bearing in
Refit
1 Tighten torx bolts to 66ftlbs
2 Fit new thin Teflon coated washers on splined area of half shaft
Must fit up flush to the inside. If there is a gap they are on backwards
Put a little grease on both sides. Washers should fit directly against the bearing
3 Install halfshaft, leave caps off
4 Place caliper bracket and bearing on rear spindle- lube splines with anti seize grease
5 Install spindle washer and nut
6 Tighten nut to 164 ft lbs- get it tight on car and finish when wheels on ground
7 Replace nut retainer and fit
8 Replace brake rotor
9 Install caliper
10 Install abs sensor new cotter pin
I've read that the halfshaft can be left in place and the torx bolts can be got at with a 6" extension- I also read it needs to be a long torx 55mm not short- also good quality!!
I've also read that the nut should be done up to 200ft lbs not the 164ft lbs in the manual
I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who has done the job
04-21-2010, 12:14 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
The instructions are fine but I didn't bother to remove the halfshafts; just one less thing to remove, one less potential headache. I did remove the ABS sensor, no big deal there.
04-21-2010, 02:34 AM
#3
Melting Slicks
I couldn't do mine w/o removing the half shafts. I didn't have the room and couldn't get the torque I needed to break the torx bolts loose. More power to ya if you can do it with the shafts in. I didn't need a long torx bit though, just used regular one made by Lisle.
Just seemed easier to remove the half shafts to me. I got the best T55 NAPA had and it did just fine.
04-21-2010, 08:32 AM
#5
Le Mans Master
Also if the torx bolts won't move like on mine, you can heat them with a torch to help break them loose.. Just have a fire extinguisher handy..
...WW
...WW
05-14-2010, 03:56 AM
#8
What cotter pin did you guys use? The part manual says it is an M4x40. But none of the parts stores have that. So, I figured you guys used something else. I'm thinking 1.5" long as that is close to 40mm? But what about the width?
05-14-2010, 08:47 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
Cotter pin size as long as it fits in the hole and is thick enough when you spread it to keep the castellated cover from comming off.
For the T55 - be sure it is a one piece socket. The wife got me one of the two piece ones and it barely made it through replacing both bearings.
I did not pull the half shafts, I did pull the spring - mainly because I needed a little more room to swing the torque wrench on the T55 bolts. Used lots of different extensions.
For the T55 - be sure it is a one piece socket. The wife got me one of the two piece ones and it barely made it through replacing both bearings.
I did not pull the half shafts, I did pull the spring - mainly because I needed a little more room to swing the torque wrench on the T55 bolts. Used lots of different extensions.
05-14-2010, 09:44 AM
#11
