Bloodvette

The previous owner of my 96 CE LT1 Auto replaced the RH side wheel bearing/sensor with a new part, and I guess he used a non-oem part because ever since the ASR is causing the throttle to back off during acceleration as well as the ASR OFF, Service ASR, and Service ABS lights come on as soon as you begin to move after starting the car. Funny thing is, when I put the original (worn) wheel bearing/sensor back into the car, all the problems go away. So this tells me that the new bearing/sensor is either defective, or not sending the proper counts, possibly becuase it was made in china, or made for a different car. I somewhat proved this theory by putting a frequency meter and getting a general idea of the output signal frequency at a certain rpm. I'm an industrial electronics/instrumentation tech, so this is my department. I forget which of the two was more, but one of the 2 sensors generated much more pulses at a certain speed. it was like 30hz compared to 20 hz. Anyways, the sensors are physically different sizes. I removed and compared them and they are not interchangeable.

Of course this is just for test purposes, but, my questions is: If I share the output signal from the driver's side wheel bearing to both inputs, (this means leaving the RH wheel sensor unhooked, and connecting the driver's side sensor essentially to both PCM inputs), do you think the ASR will be fooled into thinking the front wheels are infact turning the same speed thus NOT sending the error code and service ASR dummy lights?? I forsee 2 potential problems:

1. the input impedance now being shared by 2 inputs may reduce the signal strength and render the signal unreadable.

2. The PCM program might be programmed to LOOK for this type of behavior, that is, if both inputs are timed exactly in phase for say, a full minute, it may trigger the error fault. But it is unlikely that a Corvette PCM programmer would be concerned about this and actually write his program to deture such a situation.

I think it'll work. Has anyone actually tried this or will I be the first?

EDIT, I realize the ASR system probably has it's own dedicated control module so ignore my references to the PCM.

96GS#007

Good grief. Buy a new bearing. Those sensors feed the ABS in addition to the ASR.

helphos

I just installed two new front wheel bearings (Not Delco) and have had no problems related to the speed sensors on them. Point is, if you get the right parts, that may save you from the headache of trying to jury-rig a workaround. The bearings were about $90 each including shipping.
Installation was easy, and from what I've read, you have to replace bearings (hubs) on these cars pretty frequently, anyway.
Like they say, just my $.02.

navyndi2

It's alot easyer just chaning out the wheel sensor, it's only three little bolts and a couple clips. It should make all the problems go aways.

pcolt94

From a electrical guy, nobody loves creative engineering more than me. But this time I got to say, go get the right part.

steve40th

Change it out.
But, you can re-program the timing that the ASR takes out. Mine is programmed down to almost 0 degrees of timing retard when ASR is activated. Factory is over 20 degrees timing retard when activated.

Bloodvette

hmm, I don't know about $90. GM quoted me $750 for the part and other jobber parts were $300 and more than 2 weeks away. I will certainly replace the part, just wanted to do a little testing while i wait on parts and find better pricing. but, yes relax, I'll change the part.

The bearing/hub/sensor in my car is mounted with 4 bolts, not 3. obviously different in your car to my 96.

just looking around for pricing now.


ps. but I'm gonna test it for my own knowledge and report back. someone will eventually want to know if this works.

edit ebay price looks around $150 with shipping. geez, these places that want $300. I'll make a few more calls.

helphos

My bad! I was thinking of front bearings. They use 3 bolts. I changed out my rear bearings at the same time and they were more like $170 each from Autozone (Timken bearings). Not as easy to change, either, but like the fronts, not as long lasting as I'd like.

The rears use 4 T55 bolts.

Good luck!

c4cruiser

The front hubs use 4 bolts; that way on my 87 and was that way on my old 92.

The OP's pricing for hubs will be different because he's Canadian, eh? There will be additional shipping costs as well as custom s duty.

As far as front hubs, I have had good luck with Timken hubs from Rockauto.com Their Timken hubs are made in the US. Most chain parts stores use a "white box" version of Timken hubs and they are not of the same quality but share the same part number.. SKF makes a good hub too. Both are available at Rockauto.

I would pull the VSS and clean everything including the socket on the knuckle where they fit and pull the hub and clean around there. Make sure the reluctor ring is positioned properly (you should pull the other hub and match the hubs for the same installed height of the rings. It's also possible that the new hub has a ring with the wrong number of teeth on it. That could skew the counts.