2 questions
Second ? is when I have my a/c on the car runs hotter.Is this normal?I would think it would be running cooler as the fans are on.Even at highway speeds it runs 20 degrees hotter than when the a/c is off.I'm going to be replacing "radiator" cap & opening up bleeder when car is warm to see if that helps with car running hot.I also turn the heater on when temps reach 235 degrees which brings temps back down to 220 degrees.I hate doing that as its been hot & humid here lately.I checked for debris inbetween radiator-its fine.I also checked for coolant leaks-none.It has fresh coolant & a 160 degree thermostat I installed last summer.Engine runs good with no smoking.Am I going to have to bite the bullet & buy a Dewitts to solve these running hot issues?

a/c should be cooler. It's either got debris blocking the condensor or it's plugged up internally. Check operating pressures with a manifold gage set or the a/c pressure signal with a scanner. If the high side is greater than 220 at speed, it's one or the other. Heater core should have coolant flow through it at all times. That might drop it a degree or two.


) activates the secondary butterfly plates which are located in the secondary intake runners in each cylinder head. The second set of fuel injectors are also controlled by the same key. The system operates using vacuum from the engine and/or electric vacuum pump.With the key in the "Normal" position, the secondaries and the second set of injectors are deactivated and the engine only runs on the primary set of intake runners and injectors. Power is then limited to only around 200-220 HP.
Once the key is turned to the "Full" position, the "Full Engine Power" light in the DIC (1990 ZR-1 only) or the LED next to the power key (1991-1995 ZR-1's) is turned on and the secondary butterfly plates and second set of injectors are enabled. Now the full 375HP (or 405HP for 93-95) is available for miles of Perma-grins!!

Yes, you should be able to feel a big difference with the key on compared to off when you accelerate. If they both feel similer, even when accelerating aggressively, then the secondary system is not activating properly, which almost always means you have a vacuum leak preventing the secondary actuators from opening the secondary intake plates. A lot of ZR-1 guys just remove the secondary intake plate system completely and have the ECM chip reprogrammed.
Second ? is when I have my a/c on the car runs hotter.Is this normal?I would think it would be running cooler as the fans are on.Even at highway speeds it runs 20 degrees hotter than when the a/c is off.I'm going to be replacing "radiator" cap & opening up bleeder when car is warm to see if that helps with car running hot.I also turn the heater on when temps reach 235 degrees which brings temps back down to 220 degrees.I hate doing that as its been hot & humid here lately.I checked for debris inbetween radiator-its fine.I also checked for coolant leaks-none.It has fresh coolant & a 160 degree thermostat I installed last summer.Engine runs good with no smoking.Am I going to have to bite the bullet & buy a Dewitts to solve these running hot issues?


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Last edited by bdw18_123; May 24, 2010 at 02:04 PM.
What does that feel like(when in econ mode)?I haven't removed the shroud & I will remove it & make some type of adapter to spray water in that area.I did like from the side between the condenser & radiator & there was no debris there.I didn't check the fins on the condenser or radiator though.I'll do that & clean the fins & hopefully it improves.Wonder what the quarter-mile time would be in econ or valet mode on those Zr-1s
Is it harmful to drive them in econ or valet mode?
Anyone think I'll gain any HP from doing this?




