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what is the easiest way of changing my crankshaft seal. I'm gonna try it without taking off the timing chaing cover. Has anybody tried this before? It doesn't seem to want to come off. Thanks
nevermind.....Frustration, a knife, and a screwdriver got it out :smash: I'm not sure exactly what I did, but misc. prying and cutting seemed to get it out :D
Doing the same thing and having the same frustration you were having. Screwdrivers, wrench ends, tried putting every piece of whatever I had in the (limited by divorce) toolbox. It's hammer and long screwdriver next. I ain't going through replacing the harmonic balancer without putting a new seal in there!
Ah, I dream of having my old toolbox back. That ex will rue the day.... Ooops wrong forum
Doing the same thing and having the same frustration you were having. Screwdrivers, wrench ends, tried putting every piece of whatever I had in the (limited by divorce) toolbox. It's hammer and long screwdriver next. I ain't going through replacing the harmonic balancer without putting a new seal in there!
Ah, I dream of having my old toolbox back. That ex will rue the day.... Ooops wrong forum
Just and FYI, it's an extremely bad idea to pound on the crank pulley! Yes you can get away with it sometimes, but in extreme cases you can cause a rod knock!
It's also important to know that the hub must be re-installed in the proper position (nub at 12 o'clock) with the crank at TDC.
And you must check the hub for a groove caused by the old seal. They sell speedy sleeves if yours has a groove, or you could buy a new hub. This photo shows a speedy sleeve installed.
Anyway, this is the tool you need to use when removing your balancer
And you can get the OTC or equivalent tool for under 60 now days. You also must use a threaded stud to properly re-install the hub without risk of damaging the crankshaft threads. I used to sell them when I did a lot of LT1 and LT4 builds, I had to buy an entire hardened threaded rod and hardware. A very good idea to place a Torrington bearing between the two washers, makes it set like butter. I sold them all pretty quick, and only have my original left for my personal use. You could make one and sell off the rest and recoup your costs.
Just and FYI, it's an extremely bad idea to pound on the crank pulley! Yes you can get away with it sometimes, but in extreme cases you can cause a rod knock!
It's also important to know that the hub must be re-installed in the proper position (nub at 12 o'clock) with the crank at TDC.
And you must check the hub for a groove caused by the old seal. They sell speedy sleeves if yours has a groove, or you could buy a new hub. This photo shows a speedy sleeve installed.
Anyway, this is the tool you need to use when removing your balancer
And you can get the OTC or equivalent tool for under 60 now days. You also must use a threaded stud to properly re-install the hub without risk of damaging the crankshaft threads. I used to sell them when I did a lot of LT1 and LT4 builds, I had to buy an entire hardened threaded rod and hardware. A very good idea to place a Torrington bearing between the two washers, makes it set like butter. I sold them all pretty quick, and only have my original left for my personal use. You could make one and sell off the rest and recoup your costs.
I meant the old seal, not the pulley or HB.
And the HB can only be installed in one position due to the key. Doesn't really matter where the crank is at relative to TDC. Mine was at about 4 o'clock when I pulled it.
And the HB can only be installed in one position due to the key. Doesn't really matter where the crank is at relative to TDC. Mine was at about 4 o'clock when I pulled it.
Oh, okay... For removing seals themselves I like these and they are pretty cheap.
The LT1 does not have a key on the crank. It's press fit, but maybe you are working with a TPI engine?
No, note my username, it's an L98 not an LT1. I managed the seal with a big screwdriver and a hammer to get it out, then tapped it in with other hammers. Not the "best" method but an effective one.
Not even sure a seal puller would've fit, but as mentioned above, the ex is holding my toolbox hostage so my 35-year collection of tools is not at my disposal... It turned out OK
Scraped and cleaned out the crank threads, blew it out with air, put the new one on and away I went.
03-23-2002, 12:24 PM
Crankshaft seal replacement
