I need help with crankshaft pulley LT1
08-21-2010, 08:22 AM
#41
Drifting
Thread Starter
If memory serves me, the remaining part on the crank nose will have to come off in order to get the timing cover off to replace those seals. I just cannot remember at this time what it is called. It will also require a puller, but you use the three bolts to attach the puller to instead of jaws. There is no key way or alignment on this...but good idea to mark-it so to be able to put it back in the same spot.
I would suggest replacing the front seal as well.
The Sharpie cap works great on the wp drive seal...have one sitting in the drawer right here.
I would suggest replacing the front seal as well.
The Sharpie cap works great on the wp drive seal...have one sitting in the drawer right here.
I ill start cleaning it up today and maybe put the seals in,plugs wires.we will see how far I get,I have about4 hours to work on it today.
08-21-2010, 09:26 AM
#42
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Oct 2009
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I knew you needed that special tool for 1 of those seals,so I was half right:oYou think your vette takes alot of special tools-ever work on a BMW or Audi
:
beatdea dhorse:I would remove that crank snout while you are here & replace all the front seals.Otherwise that crank snout will freeze/rust itself on there if it never comes off.I would remove it & clean shaft & inside of snout.Your this far,why not do the job right & if the oil pan shows signs of leakage,replace that too.Also if you get it all back together & 1 day or a month later,that front crank seal starts to leak you will have to do this job all over again
Hang in there.On the Ferrari or Lamborghini forums,the engine has to come out of the car to do almost anything
:beatdea dhorse:I would remove that crank snout while you are here & replace all the front seals.Otherwise that crank snout will freeze/rust itself on there if it never comes off.I would remove it & clean shaft & inside of snout.Your this far,why not do the job right & if the oil pan shows signs of leakage,replace that too.Also if you get it all back together & 1 day or a month later,that front crank seal starts to leak you will have to do this job all over againHang in there.On the Ferrari or Lamborghini forums,the engine has to come out of the car to do almost anything
08-30-2010, 04:58 PM
#43
no worries - under the previous ownership, this car had a shop replace the water pump a few thousand miles ago so i think the pulley will not be too much of a bitch to remove.
08-30-2010, 07:26 PM
#44
Le Mans Master
If memory serves me, the remaining part on the crank nose will have to come off in order to get the timing cover off to replace those seals. I just cannot remember at this time what it is called. It will also require a puller, but you use the three bolts to attach the puller to instead of jaws. There is no key way or alignment on this...but good idea to mark-it so to be able to put it back in the same spot.
I would suggest replacing the front seal as well.
The Sharpie cap works great on the wp drive seal...have one sitting in the drawer right here.
I would suggest replacing the front seal as well.
The Sharpie cap works great on the wp drive seal...have one sitting in the drawer right here.
The balancer has weight(s) in it and to install the HUB otherwise can result in a engine vibration.
Jake
09-01-2010, 09:42 AM
#45
Race Director
08-17-2011, 02:17 PM
#47
Le Mans Master
As far as I know my mechanic installed the ATI damper before he put the engine(s) in the car.
08-17-2011, 06:45 PM
#48
Race Director
Trust me. If you are in this far, replace the opti, wires, plugs, water pump and all the seals. I even went to an electric water pump and eliminated the water pump seal in the timing cover (one less chance of an oil leak). Pulling the hub should be done with a Kent-Moore LT1 hub puller and installer. List price $450. You might find one on flea bay for much less. One more thing, If your opti is not vented do some rearch and vent it.
08-17-2011, 07:44 PM
#49
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
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careful hitting the damper (outer ring) they break easy.
I used a piece of wood and a hammer, REAL CAREFUL about it.
for the mount (inner, actually on the crank) I used a puller.
the fun part was routing the puller over the top of the PS cooler
I used a piece of wood and a hammer, REAL CAREFUL about it.
for the mount (inner, actually on the crank) I used a puller.
the fun part was routing the puller over the top of the PS cooler
03-23-2014, 04:39 PM
#50
All that whacking didn't work for me either when I pulled mine. I used this puller from O'Rilley auto parts, you can rent it. See this link; http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-Harmonic...sr=8-3-catcorr
I had to loosen and lift the steering rack just a little too. Good luck.
I had to loosen and lift the steering rack just a little too. Good luck.
03-23-2014, 09:40 PM
#51
Race Director
I did an ATI install in my 1995 and after installing the hub I pulled the engine. (I forget what the issue was may have been unable to torque the damper screws or install the damper ...) I thought that I needed to get the hub in a little deeper but I was wrong. Anyway its pretty easy to pull the engine on a 1995 Lt1 I have removed the engine and had the car back on the road over a regular weekend. (in this case the wrong converter was sent so car was down more than a week) I used to have a thread on superdamper install it may still be out there, .
Found it
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...b-removal.html (you will need a longer belt)
end highjack
Mike
Last edited by aboatguy; 03-23-2014 at 09:49 PM.
