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Pwnage's 383 Build (Pics!!)

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Old 08-19-2011, 11:11 AM
  #381  
Dr.Huxtable
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Originally Posted by LD85
If it were me, I would buy the correct rockers.

But, I would not grind them, but I might use and the side of an end mill with desired radius to touch of the side of the end mill to make @ .005" clearance.

You don't want to create a spot for a stress fracture with a grinder,, JMO
This is true, i dunno if it would create a weak point but it's very possible. If it were me i would grind it cause thats just the way i am!

How much did those rockers cost you? Before you mod anything may consider selling them to offset your cost of new ones

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-19005-16/
Old 08-19-2011, 11:59 AM
  #382  
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I personally have taken so many chances that came back to bite me and cost twice or three times what doing it right would have cost.

So my motto now is, Half right is All Wrong,

or something to that affect.
Old 08-19-2011, 01:31 PM
  #383  
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Can I shim the rocker so it sits higher?

Edit.

Just called Skip White cause that's where I bought the rocker from.

Talked to one of their technicians. He said that I could grind them, and it shouldn't really weaken them too much. He said I just need about .010" of clearance between the retainer and the rocker.

The rockers were on the cheaper side.

Any more opinions before I grind them

Last edited by Pwnage1337; 08-19-2011 at 01:52 PM.
Old 08-19-2011, 04:29 PM
  #384  
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Sometimes they hit there. It's not a big deal. Grind it.

Done properly it won't hurt anything. Grind clearance in the rocker body with a burr and then polish the area with a cartridge roll. It'll be fine.

When your done make sure it clears through out the rockers travel.
Will
Old 08-19-2011, 08:57 PM
  #385  
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Valve/Piston clearance without headgasket.

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Exhaust rocker pattern with 7.2" pushrod. Is it normal for it to be a bit offset to the right the way it is?



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Intake rocker pattern with 7.2 inch pushrod. This picture is a bit deceiving because it is not taken on a straight on angle. Basically looks just ilke the exhaust rocker pattern.

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Intake valve lift


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Exhaust valve lift

Last edited by Pwnage1337; 08-19-2011 at 09:00 PM.
Old 08-19-2011, 09:22 PM
  #386  
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It really looks like your .050 to .100 too short on the pushrod -

I know you thought you were done but pattern it at 7.250 and 7.300 and post up the pics......

That pattern is really wide as well, which tells me the rocker is over arching... could be from the short pushrod and could be just because the rockers trunion is too low in releation to the roller tip.

I'll know after you re pattern it.

Will
Old 08-19-2011, 09:23 PM
  #387  
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are you checking all this geometry with the heads and head gaskets all torqued down so the proper height has been set?

AND when you check all this geometry are you trying to do it with a stock lifter? This will NOT work.

WHY ? because the stock valve spring will shove the piston/plunger to the bottom of the lifter body and everything becomes meaningless.

SO purchas a special light weight spring designed just for checking valve train geometry and install it in place of the stock valve spring and do your tests.

OR, (my favorite), take an used lifter apart; put a stack of small washers into the lifter body under the plunger body so the plunger cannot be forced down into the lifter body; reassemble and use this (now solid) lifter for checking your valve train geometry.
Old 08-19-2011, 09:27 PM
  #388  
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Originally Posted by mtwoolford
are you checking all this geometry with the heads and head gaskets all torqued down so the proper height has been set?

AND when you check all this geometry are you trying to do it with a stock lifter? This will NOT work.

WHY ? because the stock valve spring will shove the piston/plunger to the bottom of the lifter body and everything becomes meaningless.

SO purchas a special light weight spring designed just for checking valve train geometry and install it in place of the stock valve spring and do your tests.

OR, (my favorite), take an used lifter apart; put a stack of small washers into the lifter body under the plunger body so the plunger cannot be forced down into the lifter body; reassemble and use this (now solid) lifter for checking your valve train geometry.

He is using my P/V, rocker geometry/pushrod length checking tools. The lifter is a factory hyd roller converted to a solid and a 6.8 to 7.8 adjustable pushrod.
Will
Old 08-19-2011, 10:07 PM
  #389  
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Originally Posted by mtwoolford
are you checking all this geometry with the heads and head gaskets all torqued down so the proper height has been set?

AND when you check all this geometry are you trying to do it with a stock lifter? This will NOT work.

WHY ? because the stock valve spring will shove the piston/plunger to the bottom of the lifter body and everything becomes meaningless.

SO purchas a special light weight spring designed just for checking valve train geometry and install it in place of the stock valve spring and do your tests.

OR, (my favorite), take an used lifter apart; put a stack of small washers into the lifter body under the plunger body so the plunger cannot be forced down into the lifter body; reassemble and use this (now solid) lifter for checking your valve train geometry.
I am checking the geometry with the gasket and the head torqued down.

The piston/valve clearance was checked with out a head gasket, because when I used a gasket, i could not get any impressions on the play dough. I did not do any geometry testing without a gasket.

Originally Posted by rklessdriver
He is using my P/V, rocker geometry/pushrod length checking tools. The lifter is a factory hyd roller converted to a solid and a 6.8 to 7.8 adjustable pushrod.
Will
Tomorrow I will do the test at 7.250 and 7.300 and post up pics.

Thanks again!

Jeremy
Old 08-20-2011, 08:23 AM
  #390  
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I have an adjustable push rod length checker you can borrow if that helps.
Old 08-20-2011, 05:40 PM
  #391  
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You guys are awesome.
Keep up the good work
Old 08-20-2011, 09:46 PM
  #392  
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Intake with 7.250"
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Intake 7.300"
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Exhaust 7.250"
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Exhaust 7.300"
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The difference between 7.250 and 7.300 isn't very identifiable to me, but my eye is untrained.

What do you guys think?
Old 08-21-2011, 12:14 AM
  #393  
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7.300 is where it's at... espc on the intake.

The exhaust could go either way but I'd stick with 7.300 because the pattern looks a bit narrower.
Will
Old 08-21-2011, 12:53 AM
  #394  
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Originally Posted by rklessdriver
7.300 is where it's at... espc on the intake.

The exhaust could go either way but I'd stick with 7.300 because the pattern looks a bit narrower.
Will
7.300" it is!

Will order pushrods and a few other misc items tomorrow. Any suggestions on these? Didn't know they were so expensive.

Will,

I will send your tools out to you on Monday.
Thanks a lot!

Jeremy.

Last edited by Pwnage1337; 08-21-2011 at 06:50 AM.
Old 08-21-2011, 12:13 PM
  #395  
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Originally Posted by Pwnage1337
7.300" it is!

Will order pushrods and a few other misc items tomorrow. Any suggestions on these? Didn't know they were so expensive.

Will,

I will send your tools out to you on Monday.
Thanks a lot!

Jeremy.
The TFS 5/16 OD .080 wall will do great for you. I think they are private label mfgr by Trend or Manley for Summit/TFS. I've run them in a few engines and they are a nice peice for the $$$.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-21407300/

Will
Old 08-22-2011, 08:03 PM
  #396  
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JESEL...item51992d7fe7
Old 08-22-2011, 08:07 PM
  #397  
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summer is almost over dude. get your *** in gear bro. lol. overnight that ****.. text me later. what else you need?

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Old 08-23-2011, 12:17 AM
  #398  
Pwnage1337
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I ordered the TFS too fast
Originally Posted by pr0zac
summer is almost over dude. get your *** in gear bro. lol. overnight that ****.. text me later. what else you need?
I have everything I need. Now I just need to do the work. I'm sure there will be things that i forgot about. Like just now i am remembering i need coolant temp sensors for the heads. I mentioned this a while ago and never ordered them.

Install oil pump/pickup/pan
Heads
Mod firewall to fit new harness
put interior back together.
c-beam/driveshaft
intake. i am going to install the base while its on the engine stand, and the rest when the motor is in the car.
grind the rest of my rockers.
pushrods
flywheel
torque converter.
injectors
and lots more




put engine in car.
install accessories/measure for new length belt. eliminating air pump without pulley.
then i need to do the headers/exhaust/tuning. probably going to have to drive it somewhere with open headers to get exhaust installed. i don't have a welder.

turn key and hope it doesn't explode.

Last edited by Pwnage1337; 08-23-2011 at 12:29 AM.
Old 08-23-2011, 02:31 AM
  #399  
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Did you buy a new torque converter yet? I need to call you sometime. Being over here is really pulling me out of the loop.
Old 08-23-2011, 02:44 AM
  #400  
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Originally Posted by LD85
I personally have taken so many chances that came back to bite me and cost twice or three times what doing it right would have cost.

So my motto now is, Half right is All Wrong,

or something to that affect.
I would say your rockers would probably be fine if you ground them down A LITTLE bit...

but honestly, I am discovering the above is true... you may end up redoing this job later in the future if one busts, and buying a new set of rockers anyways.

can you send them back and get the right part?


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