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Pwnage's 383 Build (Pics!!)

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Old 10-07-2010, 12:26 AM   #1
Pwnage1337
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Default Pwnage's 383 Build (Pics!!)

Starting a 383 build. I have wanted to do this since I bought the car and joined the forums and read about it. All the rave about strokers has convinced me to build one. I am 18, so money is somewhat short but I got a job at a paper mill this summer (temp work) for 3 months that allowed me to buy some of the more expensive parts necessary for the build. The machine shop is going to assemble the bottom end. Crank, pistons, rods, cam, oil pan, timing set. They will install all of it for $200. The bottom end is warrantied for 2 years/ 10,000 miles.

Here is a few pictures of what I have collected so far:

4 Bolt Block from a pickup truck. Bought a longblock for $50 locally on craiglist. Seller told me was a 2 bolt, i was excited when i found out it was a 4 bolt. Needs a fuel pump blockoff plate. Came with "swirlport" heads. I plan on giving the rods/crank to the machinist, I have no use for them. Block still needs to be machined. Its pretty dirty. Cell phone picture, sorry. What should I have done to it? Obviously have it cleaned, painted, bored, decked, align honed. Anything i am missing?




Dart Pro1 200cc Ported Heads. Bought these from USAsOnlyWay. (thanks!!) Here are a few pics of the heads and the flow sheet. they have comp cams double valve springs good for 130# seat, i will have to change them for the Lloyd Elliot cam i want to run. They have titanium retainers and some other goodies I can't remember right now.



Ported/Polished SuperRam (thanks andrew!!) I ran this on my stock 350 for a while before the headgasket took a crap. Sorry about the picture lol it was taken on my bed before I installed it.



1.6 Roller Rockers from Skip White Performance. Any opinions on these? I searched google for any info about them, they are "wyseco" rockers, and were cheap, they have a 5 year warranty. They are NSA. Another bed picture



383 Rotating Assembly purchased from a member on TGO. parts have 1000 miles on them. Came with balancer and flywheel. These are pics from the seller, haven't had time to take pictures of it yet
3.75" Stroke Scat 9000 Crank

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SRP Bushed Forged Flat top Pistons 5cc dish .030" over. Crossing my fingers my block doesn't have to be bored more than .030 over or they will be for sale. 6" Forged I beam connecting rod (eagle?) Name:  0906002145.jpg
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I still need to collect a lot of things, I am sure I have to spend at least another $1000 on stuff like gaskets, timing chain, oil pump, pushrods, etc. I have a chance at buying TPIS headers that I am waiting for pictures before I send money.

here is a picture of the good side of the car. (C6 rims from an 05, if anybody is wondering. 19s back 18s front.) It needs paint BAD. It has a few mods already, bypassed TB, open air lid, underdrive pullies, gutted cat, SuperRam. Holley AFPR. "Monza mufflers," Blown headgasket (its a mod..). I want to do a 165 ECM swap too, because I have had issues with the MAF since I had the car. It has had 3. The wiring harness is butchered so I want to go to a later style harness with the MAF burnoff relays instead of the burnoff module.
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Thoughts/Suggestions? Should be a busy winter! now I have to buy a garage heater so I don't freeze up here in WI..

Thanks for reading!!

Jeremy

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Old 10-07-2010, 02:21 AM   #2
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My wife does not allow car parts in the bed. You are so lucky.
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Old 10-07-2010, 02:26 AM   #3
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My wife does not allow car parts in the bed. You are so lucky.
Mine better learn to like it (when I have one) because I slept with my super ram the first night I got it.
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:10 AM   #4
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Looking good
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:40 AM   #5
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Keep us up dated with your progress.
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Old 10-07-2010, 09:56 AM   #6
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Mine better learn to like it (when I have one) because I slept with my super ram the first night I got it.
:

Now you can sell all the "mini rams" that you two "produced" that night
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Old 10-07-2010, 10:13 AM   #7
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Sounds like you have some great parts, but personally, I'm done with the tube runners. I have gotten to the point of quick teardown on the stock set up, removing certain rockers & all, but now that it is off right now, it's off for good. The time involved with a super ram install/teardown would drive me nuts, despite a savings in cost. And of course, I'd do all the stud mods to it & all, but I still would dread doing it despite getting used to doing it, and being able to do it "quickly". USM HSR on the way....
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Old 10-07-2010, 10:31 AM   #8
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You can save a ton of money using "used" parts just make sure to check them over throughly before final install. Keep us posted.

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Old 10-07-2010, 10:51 AM   #9
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For your questions on what to have the machine shop do:

- when they clean it they'll pull the cam bearings and freeze/galley plugs - have them re-install them (I prefer brass for like $3 more)

Don't deck the block if it's straight (he can check it after cleaning - most are OK for street engines). With the -5cc pistons and the (64 or 72cc) head chamber the compression ratio is getting up there for pump gas - going to have to look at the head chambers, installed height on the pistons and cam specs and do the calculations for static and dynamic compression ratios before deciding if you want to deck it to get the compression up any more.

Line hone is always a good idea as the blocks tend to shift a little after they're manufactured and cleaning it up will give the crank a straight spot to spin.

Have him bore and hone it with torque plates installed and a good shop will match each piston's size to the bore it's going into.

Since he's assembling it - he should check the rod big-end for size and roundness and then also clean and polish the crank if needed and check it for size.

Since you said you've got time before taking it to the shop - I'd clean up the casting on the block and smooth / radius the oil drainback returns - he'll clean up the particles when the block is cleaned after boring/honing. Doing that now will help oil drainback especially at high pumping rates of higher RPM's...
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Old 10-07-2010, 11:39 AM   #10
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For your questions on what to have the machine shop do:

Since you said you've got time before taking it to the shop - I'd clean up the casting on the block and smooth / radius the oil drainback returns - he'll clean up the particles when the block is cleaned after boring/honing. Doing that now will help oil drainback especially at high pumping rates of higher RPM's...
Any more information on how to do this? I'd like to do it and have heard of it before, but I have never seen any information on how to do it yourself.


I will post updates as it comes along, I should have the block and rotating assembly to the machinist next week. My birthday is October 16th, so I should have some incoming money to spend on this Cam/lifters/springs will be the next purchase after the TPIS headers if they look good.

Thanks for the help/comments so far guys!

Jeremy
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Old 10-07-2010, 12:39 PM   #11
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pwnage1337 View Post
Any more information on how to do this? I'd like to do it and have heard of it before, but I have never seen any information on how to do it yourself.


I will post updates as it comes along, I should have the block and rotating assembly to the machinist next week. My birthday is October 16th, so I should have some incoming money to spend on this Cam/lifters/springs will be the next purchase after the TPIS headers if they look good.

Thanks for the help/comments so far guys!

Jeremy
My vette with it's "super light system" will blind you so Id win the race. J/K.
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pwnage1337 View Post
Starting a 383 build. I have wanted to do this since I bought the car and joined the forums and read about it. All the rave about strokers has convinced me to build one. I am 18, so money is somewhat short but I got a job at a paper mill this summer (temp work) for 3 months that allowed me to buy some of the more expensive parts necessary for the build. The machine shop is going to assemble the bottom end. Crank, pistons, rods, cam, oil pan, timing set. They will install all of it for $200. The bottom end is warrantied for 2 years/ 10,000 miles.

Here is a few pictures of what I have collected so far:

4 Bolt Block from a pickup truck. Bought a longblock for $50 locally on craiglist. Seller told me was a 2 bolt, i was excited when i found out it was a 4 bolt. Needs a fuel pump blockoff plate. Came with "swirlport" heads. I plan on giving the rods/crank to the machinist, I have no use for them. Block still needs to be machined. Its pretty dirty. Cell phone picture, sorry. What should I have done to it? Obviously have it cleaned, painted, bored, decked, align honed. Anything i am missing?




Dart Pro1 200cc Ported Heads. Bought these from USAsOnlyWay. (thanks!!) Here are a few pics of the heads and the flow sheet. they have comp cams double valve springs good for 130# seat, i will have to change them for the Lloyd Elliot cam i want to run. They have titanium retainers and some other goodies I can't remember right now.



Ported/Polished SuperRam (thanks andrew!!) I ran this on my stock 350 for a while before the headgasket took a crap. Sorry about the picture lol it was taken on my bed before I installed it.



1.6 Roller Rockers from Skip White Performance. Any opinions on these? I searched google for any info about them, they are "wyseco" rockers, and were cheap, they have a 5 year warranty. They are NSA. Another bed picture



383 Rotating Assembly purchased from a member on TGO. parts have 1000 miles on them. Came with balancer and flywheel. These are pics from the seller, haven't had time to take pictures of it yet
3.75" Stroke Scat 9000 Crank



SRP Bushed Forged Flat top Pistons 5cc dish .030" over. Crossing my fingers my block doesn't have to be bored more than .030 over or they will be for sale. 6" Forged I beam connecting rod (eagle?)


I still need to collect a lot of things, I am sure I have to spend at least another $1000 on stuff like gaskets, timing chain, oil pump, pushrods, etc. I have a chance at buying TPIS headers that I am waiting for pictures before I send money.

here is a picture of the good side of the car. (C6 rims from an 05, if anybody is wondering. 19s back 18s front.) It needs paint BAD. It has a few mods already, bypassed TB, open air lid, underdrive pullies, gutted cat, SuperRam. Holley AFPR. "Monza mufflers," Blown headgasket (its a mod..). I want to do a 165 ECM swap too, because I have had issues with the MAF since I had the car. It has had 3. The wiring harness is butchered so I want to go to a later style harness with the MAF burnoff relays instead of the burnoff module.


Thoughts/Suggestions? Should be a busy winter! now I have to buy a garage heater so I don't freeze up here in WI..

Thanks for reading!!

Jeremy


nice to see other people on here that is the same age as i am (18), ive had 4 vettes and i love em, i have a 93 c4 right now in the process of chaining out the opti-spark, love working on em' also.

good luck on the build bro.
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:50 PM   #14
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Don't forget that the machine shop will need to clearance the block for the stroker crank and rods to clear.

Other than that, looks great!
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Old 10-07-2010, 06:33 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Pwnage1337 View Post
Any more information on how to do this? I'd like to do it and have heard of it before, but I have never seen any information on how to do it yourself.
A real quick and dirty explanation - There are 4 holes that allow oil to drain back to the pan at the corners of the lifter valley - you want to radius them and clean any casting flash out of them so that the oil has the easiest path back to the pan and keeps it full during high RPM / high-g cornering. Also matching that will opening up the drainbacks in the heads helps a lot too... most aftermarket aluminum heads aren't as bad as the stock iron heads were...

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Don't forget that the machine shop will need to clearance the block for the stroker crank and rods to clear.
And you can do that yourself too - there are lots of pics/instructions out there on the web. Get yourself a grinder with a carbide bit and go to town - ok not really - just be careful where and how much you clearance - you'll need to mock up the crank and a rod with preferrably some old bearings (if you don't have any ask the machine shop and tell them what you're doing) and then check where it doesn't clear - grind, test, repeat and then do the same for each cylinder...
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:17 PM   #16
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Awesome! nice project
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Old 10-07-2010, 08:48 PM   #17
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I'm not an expert on engine building perf parts,but it appears that you have some good perf parts for your L98,especially that intakeI had my first vette at 20(I'm 30 now & also named Jeremy) & all my friends were jealous.I had a stock auto 84 vette.Being 18 with a vette & all that power would be awesome.Win some money on the......trackbut be careful as I drove that first vette at 10/10s all the time.Have fun & keep posting pics if you canPS-its also nice having a vette being young instead of when your older(havin more $) as when I was young I had the world by the *****,now its the other way around
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Old 10-07-2010, 10:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniel5625 View Post
nice to see other people on here that is the same age as i am (18), ive had 4 vettes and i love em, i have a 93 c4 right now in the process of chaining out the opti-spark, love working on em' also.

good luck on the build bro.
Thanks! They are fun to work on, but I like driving it more.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bwiencek View Post
A real quick and dirty explanation - There are 4 holes that allow oil to drain back to the pan at the corners of the lifter valley - you want to radius them and clean any casting flash out of them so that the oil has the easiest path back to the pan and keeps it full during high RPM / high-g cornering. Also matching that will opening up the drainbacks in the heads helps a lot too... most aftermarket aluminum heads aren't as bad as the stock iron heads were...

Sounds like its something I am capable of doing, I will make sure I add it to my list.

And you can do that yourself too - there are lots of pics/instructions out there on the web. Get yourself a grinder with a carbide bit and go to town - ok not really - just be careful where and how much you clearance - you'll need to mock up the crank and a rod with preferrably some old bearings (if you don't have any ask the machine shop and tell them what you're doing) and then check where it doesn't clear - grind, test, repeat and then do the same for each cylinder...
I have a carbide bit and grinder from porting my old LTR TPI setup, so I'm good on that area. I have seen a few pictures on how to do this, and it looks simple enough. Is there a certain amount of clearance I am looking for between the rod and the wall of the block?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 94vettelover2 View Post
I'm not an expert on engine building perf parts,but it appears that you have some good perf parts for your L98,especially that intakeI had my first vette at 20(I'm 30 now & also named Jeremy) & all my friends were jealous.I had a stock auto 84 vette.Being 18 with a vette & all that power would be awesome.Win some money on the......trackbut be careful as I drove that first vette at 10/10s all the time.Have fun & keep posting pics if you canPS-its also nice having a vette being young instead of when your older(havin more $) as when I was young I had the world by the *****,now its the other way around
Thanks! Lots of my friends spend their money on drinking/cigarettes.... but I invested in the corvette I do get the stupid question "what does it top out at" a lot. I think they ask because most of their cars top out at 100.

I will update after i radius the lifter valley oil returns. Thanks for all the help!

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Old 10-07-2010, 10:55 PM   #19
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Awesome! nice project
These are the threads that helps out!

383, good choice
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Old 10-08-2010, 02:01 AM   #20
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More pics!!

Here are photos of the oil returns in the lifter valley.
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There is some crap in the valley that needs to be cleaned

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I will post after pictures when I am finished cleaning them up. I should be able to get at it tomorrow.

A photo of the ported SR Runners. I'm going to take some sanding rolls to it this winter while its apart to get a really smooth finish on them. They aren't rough right now but could be smoother.

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yet ANOTHER bed picture...I think I will make it a ritual to place all the engine parts that go into this build on my bed and take pictures of them
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