I'm going to use my stock block, but I need a complete 383 rotating assembly. Nothing FULL OUT RACE, but Forged Pistons are a must. What would be some prices? it's for my 87

 

http://www.flatlanderracing.com excellent rotating assembly choices and prices. And if you're not doing NOS or a supercharger, you can get by fine with a cast crank, which will save ya a lot of $


[Modified by Glock'94, 8:06 PM 4/6/2002]

 

I AM doing NOS, but I think I still may use a Cast Crank, cuz it'll only be a 100-200 shot, which won't even hurt a STOCK motor...

 

For what I did, it was like $2500+/-
I remember the stroker kit being an additional $300.oo over the normal kit.
+ the hand grinding/prepping the block.
Good to here you're building up your motor!

 

Are you positive about that statement? :eek: :confused:

 

Pretty positive. My buddy has a 10 year old CAST crank in his 66 skylark, and runs 200hp NOS plate and it sees consistent mid 11's at the track...no problems. Over a 100 DOCUMENTED passes at the track. SO...PLUS, the NOS will only be used if need be. (Say...Racing a Bike :D

 

I dunno, I don't think I'd ever try a 200 on a stock....

L83
L98
LT1
LT4
LS1
LS6

(You'll notice two missing.)

 

two? Uhh...LT5...and?? If you're speaking C4 engines.

 

B2K. Base on an L98, but had strong forged internals.

 

aww..I was thinking B2k..but that's not an engine! :p: That's an option, the motor is an L98...just built stronger.

 

You could say that. An L98 to me is a N/A TPI 350ci engine.

 

I've never seen 100 shot of NOS break a crank. I'm not saying it won't happen, just that I've never seen it. I don't think I'd trust stock rods or pistons.


[Modified by KYVette90, 9:03 PM 4/6/2002]

 

There's definitely a major difference between 100 and 200 shot. 200 on a stock chevy 350 block, not a good idea, unless your just interested in a couple of passes, and maybe not even that.

 

keep your your stock block for a rainy day....if you're SERIOUS about the motor project, a 4-bolt donor block isn't that much money, it's seasoned, stronger, and you can build it up with the other motor's moving the car!

Seriously, the block I used added about $225 to the total cost of the buildup.

 

The average price for a 383 build will set you back between $8,000-$10,000; (including all the extra parts, Intake, headers, Injectors, Prom...). The machining on your stock block will run from $400 up to $1,000 if you want splayed mains. A forged rotating assy will set you back $2,000. The small pieces; (bearings+++, rings, gaskets, oil pump...) add up fast, another $500-$800. Then a 383 is useless without a good set of heads, another $1,500. A super-ram intake, $1,400;Cam, $300; Injectors, $300; Headers, $600; Prom, $400...So you can see the whole project easily running $8,000 if not more. Speed, thrills, and excitement cost!!! :D :D :D

 

I think you can get a short block for around 2500. If you want a forged crank, Scat has one one that is around $150 more than their cast. As said above, to get the most out of a 383 you will need the other parts. (heads/cam/intake/headers)

 

TTT! See http://millerville.cc for _my_ $8000+ 383 buildup :cheers:

 

[QUOTE] http://www.flatlanderracing.com excellent rotating assembly choices and prices. And if you're not doing NOS or a supercharger, you can get by fine with a cast crank, which will save ya a lot of $QUOTE]

This place also http://www.dirttrackthunder.com

 

I picked mine up cheap from a friend who owns a machine shop that had built the motor for someone who didn't want it anymore. Mine is a Scat 9000 cast crank with Eagle I-beam rods and hypereutectic Speed Pro pistons. I paid $1,930 WITHOUT a cam. As posted above, once you get heads, a cam, rockers, intake, headers, etc, you're into it for three or four times that.

Here's a post from an earlier thread:

Well, here is what I have spent this year on my '88 to give you an idea.
383 short block-Scat cast crank, Eagle I beam rods, Speed Pro hypers, new oil pan, double roller timing set,dampener, and flywheel, all balanced, -$1,930

Heads-new in box, but used, Air Flow Research 190's-$1,200

Comp Magnum roller rockers, custom roller cam and lifters,pushrods-$700

Full Lingenfelter Super Ram, ported, used-$1,000

Lingenfelter billet throttle body, used -$300

Hooker Super Comp headers, coated, 2 1/2" dual exhaust-$1,000

Dana 44 with 3.07's used-$440

Spicer U-joints-$120

Raptor 2,600 stall converter, new in box, but used -$150

Belts, hoses, fluids, seals,plugs, cap and rotor, thermostat-$150

Nitto Drag radials and 17" Epsilon wheels,used -$250

Simpson Voyager Helmet-used $125

So, doing all the work myself and shopping wisely, I should have a pretty stout car for a little over $7,300. Unfortunately, this is what it costs to go fast with a durable,reliable, matched combination. A lot of people don't want to admit what they have spent on their cars but that is what I have spent, so far.........




[Modified by Fastguy, 3:52 PM 4/7/2002]

 

Sounds right and that is the low end