Mityvac or Motive brake bleeder?
#2
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I typically use two small bottles of brake fluid with the MOtive . Its a 10 minute/one man job
#3
Le Mans Master
I've never had a problem with a Mitivac. The only thing to be aware of is that it will suck air in around the bleeder threads, since there is vacuum and not pressure in the caliper.
So after you bleed with the Mitivac, I always let it gravity bleed to get that bit of air around the threads out.
So after you bleed with the Mitivac, I always let it gravity bleed to get that bit of air around the threads out.
#4
I've never had a problem with a Mitivac. The only thing to be aware of is that it will suck air in around the bleeder threads, since there is vacuum and not pressure in the caliper.
So after you bleed with the Mitivac, I always let it gravity bleed to get that bit of air around the threads out.
So after you bleed with the Mitivac, I always let it gravity bleed to get that bit of air around the threads out.
#5
Burning Brakes
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Location: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
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I use the Motive pressure bleed system on the 95. Works great and as said is a one man job. Just don't get carried away with the amount of pressure used. 10 to 15 is about all that is needed. I bleed the wheels and ABS unit with new fluid about every two years using the Motive .
Rick
Rick
#6
Le Mans Master
I've used the mity vac - don't like it for the reasons others have posted.
I'm currently using a vaccum bleeder attached to the air compressor - its much better.
My next purchase will be the Motive however. I've used other racers setup and it is much easier to use.
I'm currently using a vaccum bleeder attached to the air compressor - its much better.
My next purchase will be the Motive however. I've used other racers setup and it is much easier to use.
#7
Tech Contributor
I use the MityVac. There is no air going into the calipers, it's being pulled from outside and into the MityVac line. If you let the MityVac drop to 0", then the caliper gravity bleeds...again, no air is going in the caliper.
At some point I'll probably buy a Motive bleeder. It's definitely quicker than the MityVac since you don't have to continously pump it.
FWIW, I use Ate fluids so that I can clearly see when fresh fluid is exiting the caliper. Right now Ate Super Blue is in the system (yes, it's blue in color). The next time I bleed the brakes I will use Ate Type 200 which is gold in color. I bleed my brakes before every track day. On a street / 1/4 mile only car this would be way overkill.
At some point I'll probably buy a Motive bleeder. It's definitely quicker than the MityVac since you don't have to continously pump it.
FWIW, I use Ate fluids so that I can clearly see when fresh fluid is exiting the caliper. Right now Ate Super Blue is in the system (yes, it's blue in color). The next time I bleed the brakes I will use Ate Type 200 which is gold in color. I bleed my brakes before every track day. On a street / 1/4 mile only car this would be way overkill.
#9
Le Mans Master
I've never had a problem with a soft pedal or air when using this method to bleed brakes.
#13
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http://www.brakebleeder.com/index.ph...products_id=16
Phoenix V-12. Used it when I R&R'd my clutch hydraulics and brakes as well. Performed as advertised.
The feature I like is the ability to reverse bleed. It makes sense since the master cylinders are the highest point in both systems, that it would be best to push the trapped air up and out.
When I replaced my brake master I used the tool to first "pull" the fluid from the system at each wheel, making sure to keep the master topped-off. This flushed the system. I then reverse bleed at each wheel. The most difficult part of this procedure is assuring the bleeders are loose enough to allow fluid transfer but not so loose that air is introduced into the system.
Not saying other methods can't be used successfully, just offering my 2 cents.
Phoenix V-12. Used it when I R&R'd my clutch hydraulics and brakes as well. Performed as advertised.
The feature I like is the ability to reverse bleed. It makes sense since the master cylinders are the highest point in both systems, that it would be best to push the trapped air up and out.
When I replaced my brake master I used the tool to first "pull" the fluid from the system at each wheel, making sure to keep the master topped-off. This flushed the system. I then reverse bleed at each wheel. The most difficult part of this procedure is assuring the bleeders are loose enough to allow fluid transfer but not so loose that air is introduced into the system.
Not saying other methods can't be used successfully, just offering my 2 cents.
#14
Burning Brakes
I have one identical to this but I don't think the brand is private brand, it's something else. I picked it up off the Snap-On truck and it works great on nearly every car we do in the shop from Ford GT's with Brembo calipers and Motul fluid to C3's with silicone brake fluid:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Speed...ht_2250wt_1167
If I recall it was like 80.00-90.00. At first it took some getting used to because it pulls more air thru the system then the system can flow so it ends up pulling air around the threads on the bleeder screw and a very small amount thru the bleeder boot on the unit (although it fits much better than most of the power bleeders I've used). When you use it, just bleed each bleeder for about 45 seconds to a minute after fluid starts pulling through the line in to the unit and then go to the next one. In the last two years I've only had one car it didn't work well on (an early Mustang with 4 wheel discs) and one car that I had to do each caliper a second time. I just used it last night on a Ford GT we replaced calipers on and it worked awesome and made quick work of the job, best of all, when you remove the boot from the bleeder screw you can keep the vacuum applied and there is no mess at the screw which is really important if you have hi-buck painted calipers!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Speed...ht_2250wt_1167
If I recall it was like 80.00-90.00. At first it took some getting used to because it pulls more air thru the system then the system can flow so it ends up pulling air around the threads on the bleeder screw and a very small amount thru the bleeder boot on the unit (although it fits much better than most of the power bleeders I've used). When you use it, just bleed each bleeder for about 45 seconds to a minute after fluid starts pulling through the line in to the unit and then go to the next one. In the last two years I've only had one car it didn't work well on (an early Mustang with 4 wheel discs) and one car that I had to do each caliper a second time. I just used it last night on a Ford GT we replaced calipers on and it worked awesome and made quick work of the job, best of all, when you remove the boot from the bleeder screw you can keep the vacuum applied and there is no mess at the screw which is really important if you have hi-buck painted calipers!
#15
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#16
Melting Slicks
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This is the one I use:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...rrivals&page=1
Yep, I use the Phoenix for doing clutch master and slave but I like the air compressor method for brakes.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...rrivals&page=1
http://www.brakebleeder.com/index.ph...products_id=16
Phoenix V-12. Used it when I R&R'd my clutch hydraulics and brakes as well. Performed as advertised.
Phoenix V-12. Used it when I R&R'd my clutch hydraulics and brakes as well. Performed as advertised.
#17
Le Mans Master
I've had mine for two years and use it once a month to pull the dirty fluid from my calipers.
#18
I've never had a problem with a Mitivac. The only thing to be aware of is that it will suck air in around the bleeder threads, since there is vacuum and not pressure in the caliper.
So after you bleed with the Mitivac, I always let it gravity bleed to get that bit of air around the threads out.
So after you bleed with the Mitivac, I always let it gravity bleed to get that bit of air around the threads out.
It works!!!
#19
#20
How To Bleed Your Brakes in Three Easy Steps
1. Add brake fluid to the Motive Power Brake Bleeder tank.
2. Firmly connect the supplied adapter to brake master cylinder and pump the Motive Power Brake Bleeder to pressurize.
3. Starting with the furthest away brake bleeder valve (typically on the rear of the vehicle), open brake bleeder valve and purge the air and old brake fluid from your brake system.
For more info visit: http://www.buybrakes.com/motive
2. Firmly connect the supplied adapter to brake master cylinder and pump the Motive Power Brake Bleeder to pressurize.
3. Starting with the furthest away brake bleeder valve (typically on the rear of the vehicle), open brake bleeder valve and purge the air and old brake fluid from your brake system.
For more info visit: http://www.buybrakes.com/motive