Lets see your L98 Spark Plug Wires
#1
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St. Jude Donor '11
Lets see your L98 Spark Plug Wires
I have a set of MSD 8mm spark plug wires on my L98 and my wire routing and looms look like crap. I'd like to see some pics of wire routing and looms that I could be proud of.
Let's see Um?
Let's see Um?
#2
not sure if mine pass the "look-like-crap" test, but this is what i came up with after trying a couple different methods, born out of necessity. it's a work in progress. mebbe a year from now i'll have something better.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNixUQ2RMJY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNixUQ2RMJY
#3
Safety Car
Center bolt and perimeter bolt covers usually have different routing. I bought some Summit wire looms for perimeter covers that are similar to OEM in the hopes of routing my new custom wires neatly. Maybe I will get them on today and take some pics.
#4
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St. Jude Donor '11
Nice Video of your L98
rpoL98 your engine looks great. I have the earlier perimter bolt style iron heads. Looks like you have eliminated the EGR and air pump for a cleaner look. Are those larger intake runners also?
I believe I will order an after market set of looms and cut to fit wires and see if I ca't do better than the MSD made to fit (NOT).
Thanks for the replies!
I believe I will order an after market set of looms and cut to fit wires and see if I ca't do better than the MSD made to fit (NOT).
Thanks for the replies!
#5
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St. Jude Donor '11
Cut to Fit Wires and at Distributer Routing
Another Question: Do the wires at the distributer cap need to be routed around the outside of the distributer or can the ones going to a plug oposite side cross over top of the distributer and still be able to get the aluminum cover plate on?
#7
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St. Jude Donor '11
Nice Looking L98
Nice! Turbo charged? What intake runners are those. Again I have the 4 perimeter bolt heads. Not the center bolts. May change to after market heads some day or get a later model 89 or 90 if I can find a 6 speed I like.
Flame Red. Do your wires com of the distributer cap and route around the distributer or do the ones where the plug wire has to go to the oposite side of the engine go over top or worm through the distributer terminal post?
Also if I were to remove the air pump and EGR do I have to reprogram the ECU?
Flame Red. Do your wires com of the distributer cap and route around the distributer or do the ones where the plug wire has to go to the oposite side of the engine go over top or worm through the distributer terminal post?
Also if I were to remove the air pump and EGR do I have to reprogram the ECU?
Last edited by tdf; 01-22-2011 at 12:03 PM. Reason: add
#9
been there, done that?
when i put headers on my car, the header flange interfered with the stock wire looms, so i had to come up with something else. it was my original intention to use the stock looms since they do a pretty good job, but then it was one of those moments "this isn't going to work, crap".
another aftermarket solution for loom attaching brackets that i tried that also uses the cyl head attaching points for the factory wire looms also didn't clear the header flange, nor the edge of the corvette L98 mag valve cover flange. it goes along with the quality thick, robust header construction, i guess, and GM's well-designed no-leak valve covers. they would've also interfered with VC removal.
the other aftermarket solution i tried that uses poly-u looms with extra-length SS allen-head bolts to replace the VC center-bolts, i didn't like that because it wouldn't take the valve-cover bolt torque spec, real bad squish deformation (vendors: hint, it needs to have a squish-limiting steel sleeve inside the poly-u stand-off). i want to torque the VC hold-down bolts to ensure good gasket sealing.
i use that DEI insulating sleeve because i didn't want the wires making direct contact with the AIR injection manifolds on the headers, although probably not that bad.
i wanted to retain the GM alum sealing washer also.
yeah, there was a couple of weeks of head-scratching, i'm still not sure i have the optimal solution.
i guess if i could fabricate a bracket that uses those factory cyl-head attaching points, clears the header flange, clears the valve-cover flange, doesn't cause leaks or seepage, still provides clearance for valve-cover removal for C4 TPI L98's, and uses nice looms that don't break your fingernails off or pokes holes in your finger tips when you try to remove a wire, easily accessible without body contortions, that would be nice.
another aftermarket solution for loom attaching brackets that i tried that also uses the cyl head attaching points for the factory wire looms also didn't clear the header flange, nor the edge of the corvette L98 mag valve cover flange. it goes along with the quality thick, robust header construction, i guess, and GM's well-designed no-leak valve covers. they would've also interfered with VC removal.
the other aftermarket solution i tried that uses poly-u looms with extra-length SS allen-head bolts to replace the VC center-bolts, i didn't like that because it wouldn't take the valve-cover bolt torque spec, real bad squish deformation (vendors: hint, it needs to have a squish-limiting steel sleeve inside the poly-u stand-off). i want to torque the VC hold-down bolts to ensure good gasket sealing.
i use that DEI insulating sleeve because i didn't want the wires making direct contact with the AIR injection manifolds on the headers, although probably not that bad.
i wanted to retain the GM alum sealing washer also.
yeah, there was a couple of weeks of head-scratching, i'm still not sure i have the optimal solution.
i guess if i could fabricate a bracket that uses those factory cyl-head attaching points, clears the header flange, clears the valve-cover flange, doesn't cause leaks or seepage, still provides clearance for valve-cover removal for C4 TPI L98's, and uses nice looms that don't break your fingernails off or pokes holes in your finger tips when you try to remove a wire, easily accessible without body contortions, that would be nice.
Last edited by rpoL98; 01-22-2011 at 05:56 PM.
#14
Le Mans Master
These are Made For You looms, they bolt to a small bracket that is bolted to the head. If I ever redo them I am going under the headers to keep them hidden.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
#15
Le Mans Master
No, supercharged. P600B Procharger.
SLP
I routed them around the cap, not over the top so spark would jump.
Air Pump, no ECU change. If you remove the EGR, it will throw codes. Instead of burning chips buy a Moates Ostrich and TunerPro software and just disable the code 32. Then no matter what mods you make in the future, you will not have to have chips burned every time.
More up-to-date picture, after ditching the intercoolers and installing Methanol Injection.
SLP
More up-to-date picture, after ditching the intercoolers and installing Methanol Injection.
Last edited by Flame Red; 01-23-2011 at 02:45 PM.
#19
Race Director
I got a set of Taylor wires and reused all the stock parts.
They are still holding up!
They are still holding up!