qwiketz

Hi guys. I'm thinking of rebuilding or replacing my long block toward the end of summer. I'm thinking improving a few things in anticipation of more standing mile events. I'm going to do my first one in April. I'd like to be able to run it up to about 6800-7000 rpm and eventually possibly even higher for short spurts.

I know eagle has their stroker kits that can be rated to pretty high hp with the upgraded rod bolts, and their cranks can be lightened a few pounds. But, would I be better off buying lighter components? If so, are there are any that are lighter but won't break the bank?

I'll probably keep the car HR, but depending on the heads I get, I may go solid roller so I can toss a pretty radical cam in there to take advantage of the heads. I don't smog the car so bring on the monster high rpm cam.

I'll be using my ysi blower and at 7000 rpm, I'll start to be approaching max impeller speed so the thing should pull like crazy. Also, while we're discussing this, what is the max rpm that my stock obd1 pcm is good to? I've heard 6800. Anyone know about this? I might be better off switching this to something that can "see" boost anyway.

yedister

Lighten internals are good for constant high rpm, how long are you expecting to maintain high rpm? what do you consider high rpm? 7000 is not considered high rpm. Your heads and intake and cam need to be selected for the standing mile. A cam for drag race will not be effective. Look up camshaft profiles that are for circle track racing.

Yedi

AKS Racing

Mine is built with some good pieces (Crower Superlite, Oliver Billet, JE custom, Comp SR, AFR215CPs, etc, etc). I have run mine numerous times to 6500+, but MIS is hit at 6750.

I ran to 6500 on the dyno, and it just sounds like all hell is going to break loose. It makes me cringe when I am standing outside the car. It just sounds like money...

HighMileage

AFR makes high rev kit that uses additional springs UNDER the head and go outside the pushrods against the lifters and there have been LT1 guys runnning hydrollic roller to 70000 rpm. You get the best of both worlds with a radical cam but no periodic lash adjustment.

I also believe comp cams has a similar rev kit also for SBC.

these have been around for a few years so you should be able to get good tech support.

these allow you to run reasonable springs in head and not collapse the lifter since a 3rd etra spring rides against the lefter perimeter. This should be equivalent to a triple spring setup, assuming you will be running a dual spring on the top of the head. The dual spring on top is also a must because at high rpm if one of the main springs breaks you have a backup to prevent dropping a valve.

HighMileage

Not to state the obvious, but I dropped a valve and it put hole in the piston, took out the block for that cylinder and beat the head chamber. Do not skimp on springs here, run the best spring you can and think about titanium retainers and lighter valves.

qwiketz

On my current engine, I need to do the front main seal. it's currently leaking. Maybe when I do that or get it done, I can swap in a better cam(not sure how much more work that would be) and then change the valve springs. I have cnc ported lt4 heads which are really not doing me any favors with a puny cam that runs out of steam at 5500 rpm. If change that and update the spring/retainers/locks and maybe add a rev kit, I might be close to where I'd like to be as far as rpm's. Maybe that will tide me over for a bit until I get more cash to do a nice motor....

HighMileage

You are going to have to drop the oil pan, remove balancer and all front acessories.

The only extra work for the cam would be to pull the intake manifold since you have to get at the lifters. Youll need to that anyway if you do the rev kit.