cgantner5150

After much research and internal debate, I decided to swap out my functioning DN 4+3 for a World Class T5. The 4+3 was working when I purchased my 86 Vette but I have no history on the car (at all) and it appears to be a mutt of several years (mostly 86 & 88). I removed the stock engine once I got it running (due to a knock) and bored and stroked it to a 385 cid with a modified LT1 intake.

I read the awesome web page (http://members.cisdi.com/~anesthes/f-car-t5/) and numerous threads about the transplant and decided to go the T5 WC route. I could not find any detailed pics of the transplant into a 4+3 Vette so it was a bit of a new adventure.

I am on the lookout for a LT1 T56 but have yet to find one that I can afford (all the other stuff has cost me a fortune). I do not plan to race the Vette so I am not worried about the durability of the T5 all that much and I always use the clutch when I shift so T5 it is.

I purchased a T5 from a forum member with the prostreetcustoms adapter plate. He was a pleasure to deal with and I received it about the same time I was putting my engine back in. I did not want to possibly have multiple problems so I put the 4+3 back in at first and ran it for the first month or so.

This past weekend my cousin and I did the swap. It took a total of about 12 hours total with one big break to go exchange a U-joint (they had the wrong one in the correct numbered box). Due to the fact that we are getting older I am sure that that is one of the reasons that it wasn't faster and it took me a day or so to recuperate.

I purchased a Fleabay short throw shifter for made for an 80's Ford Crapstain T5. Redrilled the forward mounting holes. Not sure why no one makes these less costly shifters for the GM cars. I still have not decided what I am going to do about the shifter and its new location. One consideration is to leave it in the middle and remake the top of the console - but that is for another thread.

The Vette feels like a whole different animal now. I can feel the engine through the shifter for one (way cool) and the short shift is a phenomenal improvement over the clunky 4+3. Even my speedo readout appears to be on the money with the iPhone GPS HUD (that may have to do with the 18" C5 thin spoke wheels on the rear?).

Here are the required pics:

Removal of the 4+3


Removal of the interior and shifter


The shifter box (a lot of it has to be removed). Should have just removed it in the beginning - lesson learned


Checking out the fit of the adapter and c-beam to formulate a plan


Replaced the U-joints while the driveshaft was out - nice one


Made the first tunnel cut - pretty good estimate


Shifter in a pretty good spot and now the forward c-beam bolts are easy to get to - lol


Moving the tranny up into position required quite a bit more cutting


Tranny in place and attached on both ends.
NOTE: when they say that the stock D44 driveshaft will go back in - it is the truth - WITH A HELL OF A LOT OF WORK. Move the c-beam way forward, lower the engine/tranny and finagle the u-joint into place. It sucks but it does go in.




Had to cut a little more of the tunnel for the final fit


Rebuilt the tunnel with sheet metal and covered with Fatmatt


Final location of the shifter after most of the interior was put back together

paulmeisterpk

Wow. That looks like a lot of work. Nice write up though. Glad you posted a lot of pics.

USAsOnlyWay

Nice work and writeup. I'm sure Anesthes will be happy to see someone put it to use.

Two questions, #1 do you have pics of the tunnel after surgery (removing the shifter box) from under the car?

#2, for your shifter issues. Have you heard of the Mcleod slik shifters? http://www.mcleodracing.com/products...5+%2A+3650.mcl

They make them for T5s however those ones listed are application specific and thus would not be of much help, however the whole point of the shifter is that they offer a wide variety of offsets and arms to go on them so you could theoretically shift the shifter to come up 2" to the left and 1" up (making up these numbers arbitrarily) so that it comes up in the exact same spot as stock.

You'd have to call Mcleod to talk to them about a "universal" kit or custom install kit but I believe that was the whole selling point of their shifter. Or better yet, just tell them the offset you need and get it from the get go. (And post it here of course.)

Just an idea.

cgantner5150

Answer #1: no pics from the underside after surgery but I am sure that I can take some. I should have just cut the box out completely from the start but I just trimmed as I needed.

Answer #2: came across the McLeod shifter during my research. Did you see the price on that bad boy. Sure that would be the easy way but the shifter that I picked up cost me $40.00 new and the mod will mostly be free (my labor).
I really want it back in the stock location and I am kicking around a few ideas. That was the one thing that I could not find a picture of in all the research that I did (it does not show up on the webpage).

That shifter cost more than my next mod - I just picked up a Holley Stealth Ram for cheap. Eventually going to swap that for the current LT1 intake that I modded.

USAsOnlyWay

No they are not cheap, just wanted to make sure you knew they were around. I still don't know if they would even work. There doesn't look to be a lot of clearance around there anyway. For $40 bucks you could maybe even take that shifter and cut it and then have it welded back up to be the way you need it.

Nice score on the shifter and HSR. No worries on the pics, just curious.

cgantner5150

I am interested in how the underside looks now myself that it is all patched up. It was a matter on being late at night with a saws-all. Little more here, little more there. I should have removed the whole thing so that I could sell the whole section with the shifter.
I need to start selling all this stuff to recoup some of the funds output in the last year.

86VX1

great job man, i have been thinking of swapping to this tranny to replace my 700 r4. the shifter is from a mustang? all you had to do is drill two holes to make it fit?

cgantner5150

Yes, a shifter for an 80's 5.0 T5. It's the same mechanism just different forward attachment place. Check the pic for the "new" bolt head location. The rears are the same.

1985 Corvette

Even with some spirited driving, that T5 won't last long will it? I think Anethesis (sp?) even stated on his website that for a stock engine or one fairly close, the swap was doable. Just a thought. I considered this myself at one point.

I guess if one was really hardcore about the T5 they could have it rebuilt to withstand high hp levels. Very nice writeup with pics!

DarkBlue88

Its really about the rear gearing for me. The T56 and ZF pretty much mandate a gear change. Well a gear change is easy from 2.59 to 3.07, but the 3.33 and 3.45 are D44 swaps and that gets costly quick if you start with a D36 auto car. The 2.95, 1.94, 1.34, 1.00, .73 gear drop pattern of the T5 combined with the torquey TPI and a 2.59 or 3.07 gear will make an EXCELLENT combo, especially the 3.07. Also, the lightness of the T5 is an advantage as far as parasitic power loss. It's also a slick and smooth shifting trans, with many shifters available. The only drawback is altering the shifter.

Every ZF I've found reasonably priced has something wrong with it, and no one (I'm aware of) has gotten a T56 to work with the Digidash, even with the Dakota box. I bought a NEW T5 with a hurst shifter on it for $650. It just makes sense if you're not willing to sell your car and buy another like most on the board will tell you to do.

Good pictures Charles, as soon as I get that tilted adapter and my lift up (and swap a T-10 into a Nova for a friend) I'm converting my '88.

cgantner5150

I guess I am going to find out. I have seen a lot of T5's in action in my teenage days when I was on the prowl with my '72 454 Monte Carlo. The ones that usually broke were not treated very well.

I treat my equipment with what I call respect (no offense intended) and I don't have a whole lot of spare money due to the four little ones that I have custody of (no child support either). I also make a point of not doing things that may orphan my children. Or maybe I just got old.

But on the other hand, I am always in the lookout for deals and I am looking for a T56. Just landed a Stealth Ram for a song and dance by being patient. One will come my way, until then, I'll take it easy and enjoy my latest modification. This thing will never be done but I can't get away from the kids much and this keeps me at home and them off the computer games....

cgantner5150

Sorry about the venting everybody. Life (ie. kid's mother) causes stress that I try like hell not vent on them - so you got the soap box lecture.

This forum and everyone on it has been wonderful to me. The support, advice, inspiration, laughs, parts, and all around help make everyone of my days better.

I sincerely Thank You.

LD85

Hey man, nice work, I am anxious to see where the shifter comes out in the console hole.

Are you using a speedo calibrator like a Dakota Digital or did you get lucky with the right tranny gear

I love the shifter! ,, once again, nice job!

Here is some cool T5 info
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2005/12/T5Rebuild/

jeffp1167

The T5 will survive, it was 1st to 2nd speed shifting hard that killed them. had one behind a L-98 with 3.73's and it was a blast to drive. occasionally got on it but was for the most part easy and it lasted a long time.

Red 91

pmihaltian

WELL DONE, Charles! Nice work.

Hope the tranny handles your high torque, but the mods outlinned above should make it pretty much bullet proof if you ever need to.

86VX1

heres another question for you. if our cars, i have an 86 vet, have the same small block chevy, is it necessary to use a specific 85 to 88 bell housing?

is this bell housing necessary because of space issues with the throwout bearing clutch lever and related components?

im starting from an auto car, so i have to start my parts accumulation from scratch. i was thinking of getting any small block 4 speed bellhousing and getting a hydraulic throwout bearing connected to stock c4 corvette clutch cylinder assembly and pedal.

87bob

I have been told by the folks at Mcleod, that in my case with an 87 L-98 (with the one piece seal)and a T-56, that I can use the 87 push style clutch. Instead of a late model Camaro Pull style clutch. I have a Camaro LT-1 bellhousing and my stock 87 flywheel and PP. With their hydraulic throwout bearing I can adjust the throwout bearing for the fact I have had my PP surfaced. I went with a T-56 as I found to many ZF with problems and people wanting to much for used Richmonds. I paid 1100.00 my T-56.

87bob

I am just learning about gear ratios so please don't flame me. I'm curious why you think a rear gear change is needed. Do you think the first gear is too tall for the stock rear end? In my T-56 my first is supposed to be 2.90.

DarkBlue88

No flames from me

First gear in a T56 is either 3.36, 2.97 or 2.66, 3.36 and 2.66 being the most common. All 94-newer T56's are 2.66(2.68?). 1993 was the only year T56's had the 3.36 and 2.97 first gears. If I could have found a 2.97 gear trans, then I would have done that but they were only in 3.23 geared 1993 six speed cars, while most were 2.73s. Didn't feel like hunting something so strange down. Also, 1993 trans were weaker, but not T5 weak. '93 trans are hard to come by altogether really.

Also, the .50 overdrive is useless with less than a 3.33 rear gear.