Oil Leak rear of engine -oil pressure sensor ?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Oil Leak rear of engine -oil pressure sensor ?
1988 Auto Coupe
I have had a leak at the rear of the engine for a few years, this year it is a lot worse. There is oil coming down the LH side of the block and appears to be coming from the sensor to the LH side of the distributor.
Is that the oil pressure sensor?
I have searched the forum and there seems to be some confusion on 1,2 or 3 wires etc. I found this picture
Is this the 1988 oil pressure sensor?
If so, I'm not surprised it is leaking after so many years of vibrations, there must be some metal fatigue involved - is it likely to just snap off anytime?
What exactly leaks? could it be tightened up?
I'd be grateful if anyone can give me an online address to buy a replacement. I'm in Australia and will need to order the part online.
I have had a leak at the rear of the engine for a few years, this year it is a lot worse. There is oil coming down the LH side of the block and appears to be coming from the sensor to the LH side of the distributor.
Is that the oil pressure sensor?
I have searched the forum and there seems to be some confusion on 1,2 or 3 wires etc. I found this picture
Is this the 1988 oil pressure sensor?
If so, I'm not surprised it is leaking after so many years of vibrations, there must be some metal fatigue involved - is it likely to just snap off anytime?
What exactly leaks? could it be tightened up?
I'd be grateful if anyone can give me an online address to buy a replacement. I'm in Australia and will need to order the part online.
#2
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2000
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 0
Received 30 Likes
on
29 Posts
From '89 at least ,a single unit that combined both functions was used ( 3 wires ) .Not sure when the change was made , my '87 has both
usually the units blow apart ; size of leak being dependent on by how much.
Short of taking the dizzy out impossible to determine what is actually leaking
Send me a email ,
might have something of interest to you in my spare parts dept
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hi Rod, I can see an electrical connector pointing straight up and it has 2 orange wires.
I'm going to see if I can stick a small vid cam down there in the next day or so. I have one the size of a key chain remote.
Do you have any clues for locating a replacement?
I'm going to see if I can stick a small vid cam down there in the next day or so. I have one the size of a key chain remote.
Do you have any clues for locating a replacement?
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Athens AL
Posts: 59,651
Received 1,401 Likes
on
1,017 Posts
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
If that is leaking and not the intake manifold itself, it may have somehow backed itself out of the manifold, or one of the two pieces did.
You'd have to yank it to really tell what it is, and seeing back there is almost impossible without taking the distributor out too.
You'd have to yank it to really tell what it is, and seeing back there is almost impossible without taking the distributor out too.
#5
They are cheap - change them both. The two wire fuel pump switch almost cost me my new 385. Emptied the oil out in less than a minute. I posted a thread on it about 2 months ago.
Cheap insurance - Change them (got them at autozone).
Cheap insurance - Change them (got them at autozone).
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I wish there was an autozone near me!! I have international shipping on top of the unit costs.
If I could just go down to the shop I would buy the parts this instant,
First I have to identify the right part(s), then order them, wait for them to arrive- usually 12-14 days.
IDENTIFY the Parts - It's hard to get a picture but the bit I can see has wires, Red & Orange, coming from it and looks to go straight down to the block -
I tried to use the keychain vid cam but once I pushed it down there it's too close - this is the best picture I got from the video, in case it helps identify which part I need
I need to know which oil pressure sensor it is, then I can find the part number and start searching to see who has one and will ship to Australia
If I could just go down to the shop I would buy the parts this instant,
First I have to identify the right part(s), then order them, wait for them to arrive- usually 12-14 days.
IDENTIFY the Parts - It's hard to get a picture but the bit I can see has wires, Red & Orange, coming from it and looks to go straight down to the block -
I tried to use the keychain vid cam but once I pushed it down there it's too close - this is the best picture I got from the video, in case it helps identify which part I need
I need to know which oil pressure sensor it is, then I can find the part number and start searching to see who has one and will ship to Australia
Last edited by Stingraynut; 05-27-2011 at 10:09 PM.
#9
Racer
This has been very helpful. My vette has the exact same leak and I thought it was the gasket pushed out on the back of the intake manifold....nope just the oil pressure switch! I have a 90 with one wire coming out of the top which one would that be?
#11
Racer
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Cool. Cant believe it took 6 months.
#15
Instructor
I was going to mention that while you had this combination oil pressure switch -oil pressure sending unit apart you can replace the bell shaped electric oil pressure sending unit with a mechanical sending unit kit + the gauge from Summit , which reads real oil pressure instead of an electrical signal. You get real-time real oil pressure at all rpm's plus one less item to leak later on ..
its hard to imagine a worse place for GM to have installed this item on the motor, one of those things where you have to wonder what the designers were thinking ... to get to it either pull the distributor or cut an access panel from inside the car ... hardly a good set of options
its hard to imagine a worse place for GM to have installed this item on the motor, one of those things where you have to wonder what the designers were thinking ... to get to it either pull the distributor or cut an access panel from inside the car ... hardly a good set of options
#16
there are tons of things where you have to wonder what the designers were thinking... sometimes this car seems a puzzle,a rebus,a strange way to put things work toghether without thinking who has to fix it later,you have to remove fog light lenses...remove the bumper!you have to change injectors,remove the whole intake system...it's a car for retired guys...lots of time to mess with
#18
Instructor
there are tons of things where you have to wonder what the designers were thinking... sometimes this car seems a puzzle,a rebus,a strange way to put things work toghether without thinking who has to fix it later,you have to remove fog light lenses...remove the bumper!you have to change injectors,remove the whole intake system...it's a car for retired guys...lots of time to mess with
Last edited by Mountaineer; 11-21-2011 at 07:30 PM.
#19
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2005
Location: WAY UPSTATE NY
Posts: 2,736
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#20
Instructor
i tell ya I miss the days when had a '67, - open the hood and its all right there in front of you - simple, air+fuel+spark equalled go. hardly needed any special tools. then came EGR and EFI and the rest is history and lots of head-scratching ... i cant imagie what it takes to work on the 2011-2012 models...