VATS Problem and I'd like some help
06-03-2011, 11:03 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
VATS Problem and I'd like some help
I started a thread called "brain fart, won't start" but it seems to have died. Here is where I am.
Key in start position, security light blinks and no crank.
I went through the troubleshooting in the manual and here is what I do know:
My key's resistor pellet is .523 ohms.
I can measure this same resistance a the plug that connects to the key lock so its not the tumbler.
Start enable relay. I have battery power from both yellow wires to ground while in the start position. If I jump E1 (yellow) to the green/white wire like the manual says, it cranks.
The next step involves grounding the dark green wire on the VATS Decoder module to determine if the wire is broke, or the VATS Decoder or the start enable relay.
Where is the VATS Decoder Module? I can't locate it. The manual says it is near the ECM behind the right I/P. What does it look like?
Thanks,
Key in start position, security light blinks and no crank.
I went through the troubleshooting in the manual and here is what I do know:
My key's resistor pellet is .523 ohms.
I can measure this same resistance a the plug that connects to the key lock so its not the tumbler.
Start enable relay. I have battery power from both yellow wires to ground while in the start position. If I jump E1 (yellow) to the green/white wire like the manual says, it cranks.
The next step involves grounding the dark green wire on the VATS Decoder module to determine if the wire is broke, or the VATS Decoder or the start enable relay.
Where is the VATS Decoder Module? I can't locate it. The manual says it is near the ECM behind the right I/P. What does it look like?
Thanks,
Last edited by 89vette; 06-03-2011 at 11:11 AM.
06-03-2011, 11:24 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
The thing is behind the bread box and is a super pain in the a$$ to get to.
The module provides the ground for the stater enable relay (you bypassed this with the jumper) and the module also enables the fuel injectors drivers within the ECM. Your VATS may have died or you could have a problem with some portion of the theft deterant system.
The module provides the ground for the stater enable relay (you bypassed this with the jumper) and the module also enables the fuel injectors drivers within the ECM. Your VATS may have died or you could have a problem with some portion of the theft deterant system.
06-03-2011, 12:43 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The thing is behind the bread box and is a super pain in the a$$ to get to.
The module provides the ground for the stater enable relay (you bypassed this with the jumper) and the module also enables the fuel injectors drivers within the ECM. Your VATS may have died or you could have a problem with some portion of the theft deterant system.
The module provides the ground for the stater enable relay (you bypassed this with the jumper) and the module also enables the fuel injectors drivers within the ECM. Your VATS may have died or you could have a problem with some portion of the theft deterant system.
06-03-2011, 01:21 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
06-03-2011, 06:10 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I can see it up there and I have no interest in trying to get to it. I would assume that the dark green wire the manual references out of the VATS module is the same wire that goes up to the start enable relay. I'll try grounding that wire. If it turns out to be the VATS module and not the start relay, then I'll just leave the wire grounded and forget about the VATS. If it's the relay, I'll replace the relay. Screw trying to get that breadbox off is what I say!
06-03-2011, 06:53 PM
#8
Racer
Member Since: Nov 2006
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Does the ignition key feel normal? I just went through a week of downtime thinking it was the VATS system; turned out that it was a broken actuator rod inside the steering column.
06-03-2011, 10:45 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I finished the diagnosis. I grounded the green wire to the start enable relay and it cranked and fired right up. According to the manual, it's the dreaded VATS module. Since I already had VATS disabled in the chip, it runs. At this point, I'm going to run the green wire to ground effectively bypassing the module which allows the relay to activate when the key is in the start position. I'm not replacing a $350 module that is about impossible to get to. I like a challenge and I like things the way they are supposed to be but I just want to get this car done and out of my garage.
06-05-2011, 08:34 AM
#12
I finished the diagnosis. I grounded the green wire to the start enable relay and it cranked and fired right up. According to the manual, it's the dreaded VATS module. Since I already had VATS disabled in the chip, it runs. At this point, I'm going to run the green wire to ground effectively bypassing the module which allows the relay to activate when the key is in the start position. I'm not replacing a $350 module that is about impossible to get to. I like a challenge and I like things the way they are supposed to be but I just want to get this car done and out of my garage.
The module can be accessed in 15 minutes. A replacement can be had for < $60
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Painl...item5ae06e3199
06-17-2011, 11:22 AM
#15
Le Mans Master
I started a thread called "brain fart, won't start" but it seems to have died. Here is where I am.
Key in start position, security light blinks and no crank.
I went through the troubleshooting in the manual and here is what I do know:
My key's resistor pellet is .523 ohms.
I can measure this same resistance a the plug that connects to the key lock so its not the tumbler.
Start enable relay. I have battery power from both yellow wires to ground while in the start position. If I jump E1 (yellow) to the green/white wire like the manual says, it cranks.
The next step involves grounding the dark green wire on the VATS Decoder module to determine if the wire is broke, or the VATS Decoder or the start enable relay.
Where is the VATS Decoder Module? I can't locate it. The manual says it is near the ECM behind the right I/P. What does it look like?
Thanks,
Key in start position, security light blinks and no crank.
I went through the troubleshooting in the manual and here is what I do know:
My key's resistor pellet is .523 ohms.
I can measure this same resistance a the plug that connects to the key lock so its not the tumbler.
Start enable relay. I have battery power from both yellow wires to ground while in the start position. If I jump E1 (yellow) to the green/white wire like the manual says, it cranks.
The next step involves grounding the dark green wire on the VATS Decoder module to determine if the wire is broke, or the VATS Decoder or the start enable relay.
Where is the VATS Decoder Module? I can't locate it. The manual says it is near the ECM behind the right I/P. What does it look like?
Thanks,
Key resistance cannot be 0.523 ohms. If it is then the key pellet is no good. Go back and read it again.
It's probably 0.523K ohms or moving the decimal 523 ohms. If it is 523 ohms, that would make it key (range) value #2. If it is, the range is 502-564 ohms.
06-21-2011, 01:21 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Would just like to back up a moment and check this out.
Key resistance cannot be 0.523 ohms. If it is then the key pellet is no good. Go back and read it again.
It's probably 0.523K ohms or moving the decimal 523 ohms. If it is 523 ohms, that would make it key (range) value #2. If it is, the range is 502-564 ohms.
Key resistance cannot be 0.523 ohms. If it is then the key pellet is no good. Go back and read it again.
It's probably 0.523K ohms or moving the decimal 523 ohms. If it is 523 ohms, that would make it key (range) value #2. If it is, the range is 502-564 ohms.
06-21-2011, 11:09 PM
#17
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Cincinnati, Oh USA
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Would just like to back up a moment and check this out.
Key resistance cannot be 0.523 ohms. If it is then the key pellet is no good. Go back and read it again.
It's probably 0.523K ohms or moving the decimal 523 ohms. If it is 523 ohms, that would make it key (range) value #2. If it is, the range is 502-564 ohms.
Key resistance cannot be 0.523 ohms. If it is then the key pellet is no good. Go back and read it again.
It's probably 0.523K ohms or moving the decimal 523 ohms. If it is 523 ohms, that would make it key (range) value #2. If it is, the range is 502-564 ohms.
06-23-2011, 01:30 PM
#19
Racer
Member Since: Mar 2007
Location: New Hampshire
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That has happened to me on a few occassions. I always figure it is the VATS. Whenever it happens and the car refuses to start after waiting ten minutes. I pop the hood, remove the negative cable from the battery, wait ten seconds and reconnect. The car will usually start, then. I was never sure what caused the problem but it's been running good for over a year now.
