dizwiz24

Ive traced my problems (see recent posts of mine) to bad u-joints.

There is some play in my drivers rear wheel halfshaft (rotates about 1/8" before it starts to move)

and I cannot tell (its too covered up by the exhaust and c-beam) if my driveshaft ones are bad also.

Im just going to replace it all (sigh).

Are the driveshaft and halfshaft joints the same?

Are there any other related parts I shoudl replace while im in there? Im talking u-joint specific parts - like straps, any washers of any sort, etc? or do most people just re-use their straps.

mike100

The driveshaft ones are smaller. I think the d/s balance and health as well as the squareness of the c-beam mounting is responsible for vibration at speed much more than the condition of the half shafts.

The way you can tell (sometimes) if the halfshaft universal is going out vs. a loose hub bearing is that the universal with show play when you grab the tire only along the trunion axis, but a tight u-joint and a bad hub bearing will have play anywhere you grab the tire.

85vet

You have two different u-joints.
Drive shaft - if you want the best is spicer 5-1310x - Spicer just recently changed their numbers.
Half shafts - 5-1350x
The above u-joints are coated for aluminum shafts.
I normally change the straps and most shops recomend it.
Go with a solid u-joint - do not get ones with grease fittings.

Do some searches - there are posts where all the different brand part numbers are listed.

I change all my universals every other year due to the nature of high horsepower and breakage of warn parts.

C4boy

Any play at all, in the u-joint itself means it needs to be replaced. It's easier to tell if you have someone hold the differential yoke while you try and twist the half-shaft back and forth. It can be hard to feel the slack. Or try shifting between drive and reverse and moving a few inches and see if you hear any noise.

The driveshaft joints will usually add a vibration at higher speeds if they're bad.