A/C Recharge using dye and sealant
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
A/C Recharge using dye and sealant
The other day I decided to recharge my A/C. It was rechaarged last year and dye was put in. I had not seen any evidence of a leak from the dye so I ended putting in 3 cans (36oz) which is the total required, so it all had leaked out somewhere. It got cold. The next day I drove it to work, didn't need it in the morning, but on the way home I turned it on as it was87-98 degrees out and had nothing. Last night I decided to recharge it again, so this time I added 4 cans of sealant/dye (3 oz/can) and 2 cans of 134A that also had sealant and dye. It was cold yet this morning as I did try coming to work. So I am not sure if it will plug the orfice up or not.
Also, the clutch only seems to come on in AUTO mode and not when I select a vent location. This is a '93 LT1 that had been converted to
134a by the previous owner. When I filled it I jumped the clutch wires so it would run while I added the freon. It was after it was filled that I noticed the clutch was not working, only in AUTO mode. Any ideas on that? Had it set at 60 degrees with the fan on high.
Also, the clutch only seems to come on in AUTO mode and not when I select a vent location. This is a '93 LT1 that had been converted to
134a by the previous owner. When I filled it I jumped the clutch wires so it would run while I added the freon. It was after it was filled that I noticed the clutch was not working, only in AUTO mode. Any ideas on that? Had it set at 60 degrees with the fan on high.
#2
Well...adding sealant to an ac system is...a pretty bad idea..it will clog things up. The only way to fix a leak..and it sounds like you have a pretty bad one is to find it and repair it..which sux if it the evaporator thats leaking...
#3
The other day I decided to recharge my A/C. It was rechaarged last year and dye was put in. I had not seen any evidence of a leak from the dye so I ended putting in 3 cans (36oz) which is the total required, so it all had leaked out somewhere. It got cold. The next day I drove it to work, didn't need it in the morning, but on the way home I turned it on as it was87-98 degrees out and had nothing. Last night I decided to recharge it again, so this time I added 4 cans of sealant/dye (3 oz/can) and 2 cans of 134A that also had sealant and dye. It was cold yet this morning as I did try coming to work. So I am not sure if it will plug the orfice up or not.
Also, the clutch only seems to come on in AUTO mode and not when I select a vent location. This is a '93 LT1 that had been converted to
134a by the previous owner. When I filled it I jumped the clutch wires so it would run while I added the freon. It was after it was filled that I noticed the clutch was not working, only in AUTO mode. Any ideas on that? Had it set at 60 degrees with the fan on high.
Also, the clutch only seems to come on in AUTO mode and not when I select a vent location. This is a '93 LT1 that had been converted to
134a by the previous owner. When I filled it I jumped the clutch wires so it would run while I added the freon. It was after it was filled that I noticed the clutch was not working, only in AUTO mode. Any ideas on that? Had it set at 60 degrees with the fan on high.
Not real clear in reading your post, however in the VENT position the air conditioning compressor does not function.
#5
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2001
Location: Granbury TX
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Many dyes sold for the cars A/C system leak detection is not visable to the necked (unaided) eye. Often they require special lights or glasses to read for leaks, much like a black light. Be sure to read the instructions for your specific dye. The most important goal should be to find the leak and fix it. Not shotgun it with all sorts of fixes in a can. Chances are, you have a loose fittinng, a leaking schrader valve or broken "O" ring. These things are cheap and easily fixed and result in much more durable performance. I'd fix the leak, perhaps replace the "O" rings, schrader valves and oriface, in case it is clogged with all the chemicals, then have sthe system evacuated and recharged. You can probably do the O-rings, valves and oriface yourself for a few bucks and then have the evac and charge done professionaly. If you know someone with a evac pump or a friend in the business, you might do that yourself too.
#6
Le Mans Master
It is my experience that with a normally functioning A/C system, if it loses that much overnight, it is usually the seals in the compressor.
BUT!
Be sure to check the entire system (hoses, connections, evap, and condenser, etc) for evidence of an oil accumulation where dirt is attracted. you will see it as a very dirty oily residue accumulating dust and dirt as you drive. That is your leak.
BUT!
Be sure to check the entire system (hoses, connections, evap, and condenser, etc) for evidence of an oil accumulation where dirt is attracted. you will see it as a very dirty oily residue accumulating dust and dirt as you drive. That is your leak.