Dr.Huxtable

Hey Guy,

Well been a long day but i got the tranny out and worked on it. Found exactly what you had pointed me to.






So i ground away at the clutch for as recommended but a problem still occurs.





The fork is now contacting these 3 pins that are on the pressure plate and stopping me from being able to turn the motor at all by hand.





So i ground down more on the fork but there is no point in going any further because it's getting below the ball clip retainer. And those pins now come in contact with it which i obviously can't remove.





I tested this with the bellhousing on and slave cylinder mounted. Took it on and off like 5 times grinding alittle more here and there. Still no luck. Comes to a dead stop.

I can't adjust the ball any further back it's as far as it goes. Literally the only thing i can think at this point is the flywheel is to thick. I don't want to grind down on those pins for multiple reasons. voiding if i need to return the piece, balance issues, and simply because i shouldn't have to be altering a brand new $700 clutch kit.

Let me know your thoughts,
-Calen

96GS#007

The pins are for use by the factory during assembly of the pressure plate. You can pull them out and you'll be fine.

JackDidley

Not sure that fork is still useable though.

Dr.Huxtable

You 100% on that?? I have no reason to doubt you and don't but i just wanna make sure. Been through enough just don't wanna run into anything else is all did you remove yours?

Dr.Huxtable

Should be, i mean i didn't grind away anymore material than the guy above did ^ (Sorry i don't know your name #007 lol)

coupeguy2001

try a different fork........like a 72 chevelle.... i think they are flatter

oldalaskaman

how bout an internal hydraulic throwout bearing?

87 vette 81 big girl

Wait for one of the other ZF guys here on C4 that have used that SPEC Clutch Assembly to come around yet today or this evening Caleb.

Not sure what the solution is from here.

Man that sucks TICK.
Brand New Top of the line Spec Pressure Plate Hat all tore up.
Aluminum pressure plate cover hat too.
Likely be OK.

Might be worthwhile calling SPEC clutches Monday & talk to the Head Engineer there.

Thats what I have done in the past.
Bypass all phone techs, service reps, managers...........

Yelled over the phone at the top of my lungs.................
Give your Head engineer You Mother FICKER.........LOL

Always worked for me.

Brian

96GS#007

I'm 100% sure. It's what SPEC told me I may need to do with mine.

LD85

Mine did this but the stud worked its way out,

Typical causes are flywheel is too thick, or your fork is bent, or the stud is not seated, or possibly the Bell Housing shims are missing, or a 400 ci external rear crank balance plate behind the FW,,

SouthernSon

I, too, had the ball stud work loose and get into the OEM clutch. After you find out the real problem here, you may want to take the stud and set bolt apart and put some good RED loctite on it to prevent it from becoming a problem in the future.

Dr.Huxtable

Lol Brian i should have you call the guys for me. Yeah i'm going to give them a call on monday and give someone an earfull. I didn't pay 700 bones for a have engineered piece of shoot. I mean we really shouldn't have to be grinding away at our parts. Not that i mind, not like this project has been a simple bolt on mod anyway. But i have to go through alot of hassle, repull tranny etc.

If i had paid a shop to do this and they charged me to repull everything etc i would be PISSED. All i lost was a day and my beer stock is lower

Awesome! well thanks very much, i'll get back to it another day. I'm fresh outta steam today. Hit 105 today and ALOT of humidity

I took a look at the stud today. It was rock solid in there. Kinda a pain to get a socket over that thing or a wrench in there. It was by no means loose so i'm gonna leave it for now. But it's a good pointer for the future.

I can pull the zf out of these cars now in literally less than an hour and a half. got every bolt memorized

87 vette 81 big girl

I am usually very Civil in person Caleb.
But my temper is somewhat legendary.
Maybe that's good & bad I don't know.

I hate talking to retarded people over the telephone.

I want the Head Engineer.
He designs all these aftermarket performance parts.
They are field tested by him or her.
Their asses were on the line before hand.
Problems likely came about during testing.
That engineer will have Real World Solutions for You.

I don't think SPEC builds crap.

Give them a chance I call Monday.
Ask for the head engineer.

I just flip out on the retarded tech guys and managers that give me BS answers or blame me 100 % for the problems.

They wet their pants after talking to me.
Believe me.



BR

LD85

Disgustingly hilarious, I too could pull my ZF quick after so many attempts to make it work,,, trying PUSH type TOB's etc.

Bought the TKO00, installed it, and have never pulled it back out since the day I put it in

I hope you figure it out soon, for SBC's,, the FW's have standard thicknesses as do the friction disc, so I can't imagine what the problem might be...short of a mismatched PP

Just had a thought, make sure your bolt shoulders bottom out in the countersunk holes,, you cna check this by making sure the PP is tight against the FW

C409

..... Do you have a pic of the original pressure plate ? ... the spec clutch has a pull-type throw out bearing and that clutch fork is a pusher ...............

oldalaskaman

those pins are roll pins, why dont you tap them back a bit in the holes they're in , then go buy a new fork , you've ruined that one

oldalaskaman

you've noticed something missed by every one, excellent, respectfully, bob

cv67

Cant you grind the pins down some?

Think the fork may be ok it didnt have a gusset before.
Wouldnt hurt to weld a shallow one across though.

5abivt

Sorry I don't have anything to add but I'm envious of you guys pulling the clutch and trans etc and knowing which bolt goes where. If you don't mind me asking will the fsm show which bolts and the lengths and where they go?

I have never tackled a clutch or trans job. The last shoppe tossed everything into a bin so all the bolts are mixed up. My motor Will be in my hands soon but i fear I won't get it into the car anytime soon.

Dr.Huxtable

Old clutch was same way. Pull type. I replaced the original slave cylinder which is pull type and the bell housing is for pull type. Looked at my 1000 page FSM and it's pull type. If it was a push type then the slave cylinder would have to be on the other side of the bell housing. And that fork is definitely for pull type

I'm gonna just take the pins right out i believe. I'm going to call Spec on monday to confirm this and give them an earful about their under engineered expensive product.

And i'll make this fork work. I'm gonna weld some strength on the back of it for extra support. It's either 1/4 inch of 5/16 inch, not gonna bend anytime soon. This clutch has a very easy pedal for holding 850 ft lbs. And besides a new one is over 150 bucks FORGET THAT

Yeah i may grind or just remove them.

I'm gonna weld some on the fork tonight to strengthen it up alittle on the back side. I'll post up pics!