what is the best after mkt cold air intake for LT1
09-11-2011, 07:18 PM
#3
All I have is a open air filter lid from mid America. I wouldn't waste any money on "cold" air intakes. Good luck with your choice, but stay away from those stupid paperweight Airfoils!!! 
09-12-2011, 02:47 PM
#4
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I had an open box with a K&N filter that I recently upgraded to an SLP "claw" intake that I found used/locally really cheap. I notice no difference what so ever, However it looks really cool.
09-14-2011, 07:09 PM
#5
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My 93 has a 3 prong SLP intake that was on it when I got it. I don't think it really helps anything but on cool mornings the SES light comes on and the code says it's reading the air temp too cold.
09-15-2011, 12:02 AM
#6
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i've heard that the factory air box flows better than any aftermarket intake. just de-screening the MAF and installing a throttle body air director will open it up more. (just keeps velocity up and turbulence down) correct me if im wrong though.
09-15-2011, 12:49 AM
#7
Safety Car
Unless you want the cool look factor. Save yer money, the car will need other things.
09-15-2011, 05:20 PM
#9
Drifting
09-16-2011, 01:51 PM
#10
Waste of money on a stock engine..and even some modified ones until you get into seriouse HP...gears..best bang for the buck...I'm not going to do anything to my motor..just some gears...
09-16-2011, 02:36 PM
#11
I threw a thermometer in my air box when I was was wondering what was happening up there.
Once you get moving, you intake temp are ambient.
When you sit idle is when you get a heat build up.
Personaly, I would just cut the air lid if you feel you need to do something and call it done.
I feel the SLP claw just adds more weight up front since it is made of steel.
For absolute best, which means just sucking clean air from outside the car, I would say a license plate ram air would be ideal since it is sealed to outside air. You know, so you get that cool air intake while sitting at a red light.
I dont think you can find any anymore, which would lead you to a DIY, which I saw some ZR1 guy did many, many years ago by cutting out the plate area, adding in sheet metal to duct it, and attach it to the air box.
Once you get moving, you intake temp are ambient.
When you sit idle is when you get a heat build up.
Personaly, I would just cut the air lid if you feel you need to do something and call it done.
I feel the SLP claw just adds more weight up front since it is made of steel.
For absolute best, which means just sucking clean air from outside the car, I would say a license plate ram air would be ideal since it is sealed to outside air. You know, so you get that cool air intake while sitting at a red light.
I dont think you can find any anymore, which would lead you to a DIY, which I saw some ZR1 guy did many, many years ago by cutting out the plate area, adding in sheet metal to duct it, and attach it to the air box.
09-16-2011, 05:10 PM
#12
Safety Car
All of those are garbage. Stick with the factory airbox. Measure the dimensions of the stock filter and then the aftermarket. The slp looks ugly and does nothing. The vortex has such **** poor design and build quality breathless tucked tail and ran off to the c5 and c6 market to sell them the newer systems. The c4 was their learning experiment. The best intake setup flows through the front plate and utilizes the stock airbox and filter because of it's size. I run it with a green filter. Don't use k&crap there is a massive difference in the quality of a green vs k&crap. I did a review on them both on ls1.com a while ago.
09-16-2011, 07:11 PM
#14
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09-16-2011, 07:15 PM
#15
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I dont think it is the best but, let me share what I have and how I did it.
I have the Vortex Ram Air.
It is maybe the biggest PITA to install of all and it sits a bit high and touches the hood.
It draws air from the outside thru the radiator shrud.
I have the Vortex Ram Air.
It is maybe the biggest PITA to install of all and it sits a bit high and touches the hood.
It draws air from the outside thru the radiator shrud.
Last edited by PLRX; 09-16-2011 at 07:18 PM.
09-17-2011, 01:08 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
The one that made the most sense to me back when I first bought my (departed) 1995 was the housing that was "flipped" so that the filter (stock or K&N) poked through a square hole that was cut into the radiator shroud. There was no doubt that the intake air was now coming from outside the car rather than from inside the engine compartment and the installation looked pretty slick and almost stock. These used to be offered by the usual aftermarket houses (Eckler, Mid-America, Corvette Central, etc.) but apparently the guy that made these stopped making them. Still, in my opinion these were the nicest and cleanest looking kits that were ever offered.
Doug
Doug
09-17-2011, 01:30 PM
#17
Drifting
In retrospect it would be very easy to make one yourself. Here's mine
09-19-2011, 10:37 PM
#18
Team Owner
The one that made the most sense to me back when I first bought my (departed) 1995 was the housing that was "flipped" so that the filter (stock or K&N) poked through a square hole that was cut into the radiator shroud. There was no doubt that the intake air was now coming from outside the car rather than from inside the engine compartment and the installation looked pretty slick and almost stock. These used to be offered by the usual aftermarket houses (Eckler, Mid-America, Corvette Central, etc.) but apparently the guy that made these stopped making them. Still, in my opinion these were the nicest and cleanest looking kits that were ever offered.
Doug
Doug
05-13-2012, 11:01 AM
#20
Purolator Air Filter for 300HP LT1 = A44655
Purolator Air Filter for 405HP LT5 = A44655
Holy crap! they're the same!
I just buy the ZR1 air filter for my LT1 and call it done. GM design teams read the car magazines too. If there were cheap power left on the table for the ZR1 (+$30,000 option) they would have used it.
Purolator Air Filter for 405HP LT5 = A44655
Holy crap! they're the same!
I just buy the ZR1 air filter for my LT1 and call it done.
GM design teams read the car magazines too. If there were cheap power left on the table for the ZR1 (+$30,000 option) they would have used it.