C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

DFI with Calmap 6.32 vs TunerPro RT 5

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Old 10-19-2011, 07:22 AM
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Mike in Boston
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Default DFI with Calmap 6.32 vs TunerPro RT 5

I've been running the old DFI with calmap 6.32 for a long time. How does something like TunerProRT compare functionality-wise? Does is handle 2 bar MAP sensors for forced induction applications?

I don't really like the White Racing harness that connects the stock harness to the DFI. It sort of flops around and looks a little ghetto.

See pic
http://home.comcast.net/~mikeg73/Car...m/DSCN0023.JPG

I also miss my rear defroster working due to something in the harness not being quite right.

-Mike
Old 10-19-2011, 08:29 AM
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LT401Vette
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TunerPro RT 5 does work well, but there are a number of factors beyond the software, comparing an after market ECU to tuning a stock one.

The biggest in my mind is tunability of after-market verse the stock ECU. Not that you can't get it tuned well with a stock ECU, but if you have major mods so it needs to be tuned quite different from stock, it is a good bit faster and easier on after market setups where you can change tune settings while the engine is running & driving. You can do this with the stock ECM but need to set up a real-time emulator opening another can of worms. The settings in after market systems usually are more focused on setting up your car, without all the additional correction tables that confuse new comers, but on the other hand you usually start from a closer place having the stock tune in the stock ECU.

As for the 2 BAR sensor, last I knew you still could not recalibrate the stock ECU to use a 2 Bar sensor. Someone correct me if this has changed.
This is true for use of many other non-stock devices such as Boost Controllers, NOS control, Water Injection, etc. But that only counts if you need any of those.
Why do you want a 2 BAR sensor, I don't see boost in the picture or is that in the plans?


There are pros and cons to both, it is what you are doing with the car that drives which works best for you. Some people prefer to run stock ECU even in very radical engines, I used to do that as well just because I was comfortable with it, then when I made a switch and quickly realized how many hours I wasted making the stock one work for something so far from stock.

One of the biggest difficulties in an after market standalone is installing it, you have that done. If it is running well now I recommend keeping the DFI and coming up with a way to clean up the wiring if the following apply to:
- You have significant mods already done
- Have significant mods planned in the future
- Expect to change the tune often in the future.
- Race regularly and need to adjust the tune for conditions within a tight time frame.
- Already know how to tune with the DFI
Old 10-19-2011, 09:32 AM
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Mike in Boston
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Thanks for the great comments. I very much appreciate it.

The car is heavily (within reason) modified with a forged 383, Victor Jr heads, customer blower cam and large fuel system. In addition a Procharger F1R will be added back onto the car once I get a bad cylinder taken care of.

The pic is a little small but you can see the blower from when I mocked up the blower for the new bracket.



I didn't realize that the TunerProRT didn't include an emulator. I thought that's what the RT meant Once I nail down the tune with the wideband I don't really ever change it. But if it doesn't support a 2 bar sensor I guess it's a no go.

I'm comfortable using the old Calmap but because it's DOS based and there is no public source code to modify you miss the extras a new windows based system can provide.

-Mike

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