ch@0s

My steering wheel has been a little loose lately.
On my way home it pretty much fell in my lap.
I tackled it and took some pictures.
Here are some tools you need that you may not have .. So go get them!
1.Steering wheel puller
2.Lock plate tool
3.E8 reverse torx
4. #30 torx
5. #10 torx
6.lock tight
The other tools you need you will already own, we hope.
Disconnect the battery negative cable. If you have an air bag wait 10 minutes before you start.
Remove the air bag and set it right side up in the passengers seat.
I didn't have one:woowoo:

Pull the steering wheel

If you have an air bag you will be looking at a clock spring take it out by removing the retaining clip. You may need to unplug the harness if you don't have enough slack.

Using the lock plate tool compress the lock plate and pull the snap ring out using a couple of picks.



Now, the easy part .. take out the blinker assembly by removing the blinker lever, hazard **** and 3 Phillips screws that hold it in place. If you want to disconnect the harness. I had enough slack I didn't have to.

You should now be looking at 3 #30 torx screws they hold the housing in place. Take the buzzer switch out with needle nose pliers be very careful not to lose the spring that holds it in place. Next to the buzzer is a #10 torx that hold the ignition cylinder in. Remove the screw and pull the cylinder out.


It is now time to take the housing off.
Remove the 3 #30 torx holding it in place carefully slide it out at this point the dimmer cam and lever are going to fall out of place. Make note where they go they are on the left side behind the blinker lever.
I had enough slack in the wires I didn't have to take the harness loose.


We are almost done.. I had to go get some tools for the job.
E8 1/4 in drive $2.99
Thread lock $.99
Crunch bar $.54
This is the cheapest repair yet :Irule:

Ok, back to work.
Remove the 2 E8 bolts with a magnet put some thread lock on them and put them back in place.

Put it all back together in reverse order.
I had hell with the dimmer lever and had to pull the knee bolster to get it back in the dimmer switch. be careful not to knock it out of place.

If you have been paying attention you have noticed 2 things.. one this is not a vette its my 91 S15 Jimmy and two i said four bolts but only tightened 2.
The S15 column is similar to the vette. This is my DD and from what I have read this will hold the column in place for a long time. If it were the vette i would do all 4. That requires a Tilt column pivot pin puller. To pull the tilt off the column then you have access to the other 2 bolts.

JackDidley

Nice write up. I guess there is a bearing at the top ?? Mine is squeaking. Going to be a project soon. Its really annoying.

ch@0s

There is a bearing there. I have never had to replace one. Let me know how it goes.

JackDidley

Should be the next project after the headlight. We'll see how that one goes first, then I'll get back to you.

dogfish246

Very cool write up! I wonder how much different it is if you have air bags?

ch@0s

You will have a Clock spring to remove and the bag. Disconect the battery and wait 10 minutes to start. I have taken mine apart to replace the windshield wiper switch. There are a couple of screws on the backside of the airbag/steering wheel.

dogfish246

Not to get off topic, but there is a slight play in my steering wheel when you turn the steering wheel (as if you were turning the wheel there is some play before the tires move). Is there any bolts you came across that could have loosened which causes this?

pologreen1

WOW!! Awesome thread man. This is going to be very useful. Mine has a little bit of play too in the top tilt position. I think this has to be the best column thread.

There will be many people needing this with all the old c4's switching hands lately.

ch@0s

Probably in the suspension or rack. That could be cause by many things.
Have someone move the steering back and forth.
Look at the coupler at the rack and pinion below of the left exhaust manifold ck it's not torn...
there are rubber mounts that hold the rack and pinion to the frame.. ck those.
Ck the tie rod ends and ball joints also .. you are looking for play.

jaa1992

OFF Topic, but not completely

Once you have the wheel off and down to the lock plate it looks like it would be at the right level of dissassembly to add a quick release and new steering wheel.
Am I correct?

ch@0s

If you don't have an air bag.

jaa1992

Damn, the 92 has an air bag
I have to get rid of it since I'm making this a track only car

ch@0s

Then it will work .. go for it
There is a connector that goes to the air bag from the clock spring. I'm guessing you are going to get a different steering wheel without the airbag.

dogfish246

Got ya! Thanks!

Gear Jammer

Hi
My 91 steering wheel is starting to get a bit wobbly too. Is there any good way to differentiate between worn pivots in the steering column housing and/or loose bolts holding the tilt assembly?

I had my column apart about a year ago, I tightened 2 of the 4 bolts holding the tilt assembly (and used thread locker) but I couldnt get to the other two. I did this before I learned that the wobble can also be caused by worn pivots in the housing.

If it helps, you can move the steering wheel (against the tilt-spring tension) a bit to the left and down (bout half an inch or so). Also, the dimmer rod cannot move freely, unless I hold the wheel down and to the left.

Did this make sense?


john

Any reviews / opinions on this product?
http://tinyurl.com/293utfj

dizwiz24

Thanks for the writeup. Its my understanding that most of the c4 steering wheel play issues are caused by elongated holes in a housing around the tilt pivot pins

Gear Jammer

Ok,

Whats the general consesus? Get one of these for around $100 (but without the pivot pins). What about the other half of the housing (the part that actually tilts with the wheel)?? Which one is the one with the wear problem?



Best deal I can find for the housing and pins is around $150. Do I need to worry about the pins? Sounds like it always the aluminum housing that wears down, not the pins. Anybody have leads on just the pins?

EDIT: Looking through old posts, I may give Tom Reina 864-287-9990 a call.



*** OR ***

Would it be worthwhile to take my original housing and have a machine shop insert some type of self-lubricating bushing into the aluminum housing? Any idea what kind of moola outlay that would require? My guess is more than $150

ndanl

looking to your pics I realised that my dimmer lever is not connected anywhere, where should I connect it ?

ch@0s

The dimmer lever rests inside and is pushed in by the cam. It could have fallen out of place.

ch@0s

I'm really not sure. I would think the housing would wear first and replacing it would fix your problem. Have you taken it apart yet? If you haven't you really need to take a close look at it before you buy any parts.