1991 Stock L98 Rebuild Advice
#21
Drifting
None at all, huh? That stinks. Competent or not, I'd hate to see your engine turned into a, "learning opportunity." What about the idea of a short block? Is the idea of doing business offshore out of the question?
#22
Racer
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New to this term so appreciate the advice
#23
Drifting
That's pretty much right. This assembly is often called a, "partial engine assembly." The short block typically is the assembly of the block, crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, rings, and all bearings. Some suppliers include the timing cover and timing chain/gears, but that is depending on who you get the short block from. You'd need to transfer the rest of the engine components to complete the new engine. Just make certain the supplier knows the year make and model of the car you have. This is to make certain you get the proper rear main seal, dipstick placement, and anything else needed to make it a direct swap. Most rebuilders do this on an exchange basis. Try to have a new one sent before you ship the old one so you can make a detailed visual comparison between the two to make sure everything is right. You'll more than likely have to pay a core charge to do it this way, but you should get that back when they get your old one returned. The important thing is to be certain you have the right new block assembly.
I don't mean to make you think it's hard to get the right one, but it seems you're just starting out with the DIY mechanics and I want to make sure it goes as smoothly as possible. Here in the States if we get the wrong part we return it. I don't know what is involved if you get the wrong part in HK, so that makes it a little more important to get the right stuff the 1st time thru.
I don't mean to make you think it's hard to get the right one, but it seems you're just starting out with the DIY mechanics and I want to make sure it goes as smoothly as possible. Here in the States if we get the wrong part we return it. I don't know what is involved if you get the wrong part in HK, so that makes it a little more important to get the right stuff the 1st time thru.
#24
Drifting
Not even a top end, unless there is an obvious problem. I would address the leaks/misting first...probably all that is needed.
#25
Racer
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How long should I expect this engine to last? I mean, is it going to keep going without any problems, or do these start to deteriorate after a certain stage.
By the way, 10W30 oil is not available in HK, so I've been running 5W40 for years now. Whats everyones opinion on this?
#26
Racer
The transmission needs to be replaced, so my thinking was that I would like to keep the car, and maybe it would have been a good idea to refresh the engine at the same time?
How long should I expect this engine to last? I mean, is it going to keep going without any problems, or do these start to deteriorate after a certain stage.
By the way, 10W30 oil is not available in HK, so I've been running 5W40 for years now. Whats everyones opinion on this?
How long should I expect this engine to last? I mean, is it going to keep going without any problems, or do these start to deteriorate after a certain stage.
By the way, 10W30 oil is not available in HK, so I've been running 5W40 for years now. Whats everyones opinion on this?
From an observation point: You say your cooling seems fine (no oil/coolant mixing) your engine doesn't use oil, does it blow smoke (slight steam is fine when you start in the morning)? Sounds like its a healthy engine and in general does it sound smooth? If yes to all I would just leave it especially since there is no one familiar with this engine.
We have a saying in Australia, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
#27
Drifting
Once again I agree with testing to troubleshoot any possible maladies with the engine. If it need replacement or just repair, proceed in the desired direction. My lengthy posts were to describe a process if you decide replacement is in your plans.