I had a lightning strike at the house last week. After the fire was out I started the '96 and it ran for 2 to 3 seconds and then stopped as if the key was turned off. No fire got to the car and the bolt didn't hit it but was close to the car. It will start again and again but a few seconds running and it dies. Fuel pump seems to be running ok. No dtc set. Any ideas?

 

How do you know the fuel pump is running? You could be losing pressure as it is running.

I would diagnose this the same as a no start. Get a in-line spark checker for the coil wire and see if spark goes away as it runs.

Your losing something as it is running.

 

Fuel pressure is normal and stays up after shutdown. Same as turning key off. Throttle responds until quitting. No ignition

 

Contrary to popular belief, a direct hit from a lightning bolt is not necessary to mess up the electronics in the car.

There is enough static 'discharge' in the air , of the surrounding area, to do it.

You could try resetting the ECM by disconnecting the battery.

Don't know if that's the cause of your problem, but it is something to consider.

 

I know computers don't like lightning. Hope it's not the ecm.

 

Did smoke or water clogg something? Air cleaner perhaps......Tail pipe clear? Take the battery off and reconnect and try again.

 

Your home owners insurance should cover the car. No need to worry about it, just call your agent.

 

Good responses.... thanks There was no smoke or water damage to the '96. It was in the driveway and the bolt struck the house. There are two connected phenomena-- ESD or Electrostatic Discharge and EMP or ElectroMagnetic Pulse. It's really the EMP that initiates things. Any conductor in range of the pulse will generate a voltage from end to end of the conductor (basic generator theory), usually in the many Kilovolt range. This alone is sufficient to destroy semiconductor junctions. The ESD is the related charge buildup from an EMP looking for a gap to jump.

What I suspect is that the ECM was damaged on one or more of the sensor input interfaces. I was hoping that someone might recognize the exact sequence of symptoms..... normal start.... normal idle.... shutdown. It's as if the car is "booting" normally and then after 3-4 seconds it wants input from some sensor and, not finding it, shuts the engine down.

I found a used "good-as-new" ECM on the Bay and bought it... I'll post here when it arrives and I get it installed

Homeowners is handling damage to the home and appliances. They told me my Automobile insurance (comprehensive) was responsible for the car. My call to them resulted in being told I have $500 deductable so it's a dead end there. Looks like I'll have to carry this one myself.

I did the battery disconnect- 2 hours. No difference

Many thanks to you guys for thinking this one over... Walt

 

After you get this fixed, you're going to have to run with a ground strap on the car.

 

Nah... I'm having the floorboard cut out so I can drag my feet. Got them special 150 MPH Nikes

 

It sounds like the security system is shutting off the INJs. Just fixed another car doing the same thing..
I would also have the Ign control module and coil tested.

 

TTOP.... great suggestion. Tell me more about the security shutoff.. I'm assuming for the moment that ICM and coil are functioning since it starts every time I crank. Not proof but good indication that they are sparkin' and arcin'

 

Car ran perfect for 10-15 seconds every time it started.
Get a noid light and hook it up to a inj while its running. If it quits blinking and then the car dies, its the security system.
We had to install a VATS bypass box.
One of them was a caprice cop car with no vats.. Talk about pull your hair out. How come we had to install a aftermarket bypass for a part that the car isnt supposed to have?? Thanx GM!!!

 

I have been scanning all searches for the CCM and VATS. Everything I read seems to indicate that a blown VATS will keep the starter solenoid from engaging and thus the car won't start. Is there another function of VATS that will disable FIs after starting?

 

Have you checked for codes..

 

I think just the older OBD1 is like that. (anyone?)
The 2 cars we fixed were OBD2 LT1s. both started, ran then died.
I did quite a bit of searching on the net about it and eveyones 1st thing is Opti, 2nd is PCM junk/check codes, 3rd is ICM and 4th is pump. All were guessing at the problem.
Quick test to help rule this out or prove it, is the noid light.

 

VATS disables the starter and injectors...in the early vettes, could be different in the later ones. Check your owners manual or FSM. The injectors aren't disabled right away so if, like my '87, the starter disable function doesn't work the engine may fire for a second or two before VATS disables the injectors.

 

Thanks for the reply TTOP..... I think there may be some hope. I spent a few quiet hours last night absorbing the FSM for technical data about the system. It is quite complicated. I have bought a "good" PCM from the Bay but I now discover that the PCM and the CCM are tightly linked. The key code is locked into both. When inserting the key the resistor value is read by the CCM which then encrypts a message to the PCM saying "this is what I got-- is this what you got?" then the PCM compares it to the key resistor value it has and, if they agree, encrypts a message back to the CCM saying "Yep... thats it". The CCM then enables starter and Fuel Delivery System.

Bottom line-- My new PCM is unlikely to have the same value stored in EEPROM so it won't agree. Also, the symptoms lead me to believe that the CCM has a higher probability of being the culprit than the PCM so replacing it would likely cause each unit to have a different value than the other and also different from my key.... Whew!!

I followed the FSM instructions to program the PASSkey system and the CCM would not go into programming mode. I also cannot put the CCM into diagnostic mode per the FSM proceedures. However, the "Security" light does come on properly when leaving the vehicle.

I am interested in what you used to bypass the CCM. I think that will at least reduce the number of mismatched modules I have to contend with. Some folks are saying that you can't bypass VATS on the OBD2 '96 but you say that you have done it and, moreover, it fixed the vehicles you had that had exactly the same symptoms that mine has. A little more info would be gratefully appreciated.....

Thanks... Walt

 

Yeah, you will have to have your new PCM "vin flashed" for your car atleast.
Here is a link to the Ebay search we used. Mild to wild on price. We used the cheapy one.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=..._id=3086982726

I still think a few quick tests before you buy parts would be a good idea.
We had spark, fuel PSI and fuel would spray out of the INJs during cranking(with the coil power unplugged).
Tested injs with noid light, we also sprayed a touch of starting fluid in the intake track when it was wanting to die, the fluid kept it running and thats what pointed me to the VATS problem killing the INJs.
One of the cars was a old beater fishing car and instead of buying a 3-400$ part to fix the car we used the cheapy bypass to see if it would work, it did and still is running

 

Id make them total the car out too many electronics could be affected and plague you. Hope thats not the case but personally Id walk from the car.