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New 383 TPI build and dyno results

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Old 04-18-2012, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Vic'89
Hey Tom, nice addition !

Everything looks real good.

The HP on the dyno graph doesn't look like a TPI motor HP graph.
It is real flat.

Will you make a Corvette Challenge race soon ?

Vic
I have to get the chip sent out for some re-working. When I get it back, I'll be looking to get it to the track, so hopefully I'll get to a CC in the near future. Have you been going? How's the car running?

I'm pretty surprised by the graph also, but the track will be the big test.
Old 04-18-2012, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
If we found out there was extra base/runner siamesing, that would be huge to point out -- if the same dyno could be duplicated in another run/build.
I can assure you no siamesing was done to the base, runners or plenum. The base is an untouched, out of the box, Accel SR base and was the same base used on my car for the past 8 years. The runners are AS&M and the only work to them was to radius the holes on the plenum side to match the large gaskets. The plenum was also ported to match the gasket and the restrictions were removed inside. These are the only modifications to the TPI system. The only changes made to the TPI since it was removed from my old engine was a little more work on radiusing the runners at the plenum.

After I get the chip re-worked I'll get it back on the dyno and then to the track. I guess we'll know more at that point.
Old 04-18-2012, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TA
I'm pretty surprised by the graph also, but the track will be the big test.
100% correct, I expect to see 11.90 - 12.00.

You have the same convertor as before, right ?

A big convertor won't really help till you add a Miniram

With those 2 items, you should hit low 11's.

I have not been to the track in a while, but hopefully soon.

Vic
Old 04-18-2012, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Vic'89
100% correct, I expect to see 11.90 - 12.00.

You have the same convertor as before, right ?

A big convertor won't really help till you add a Miniram

With those 2 items, you should hit low 11's.

I have not been to the track in a while, but hopefully soon.

Vic
Yep, still using the same converter. I was really tempted to replace it when I had the engine out since it would have been so easy. But like you said, I wasn't sure how much gain there would be.

Your target is what I'm shooting for. I'm guessing low to mid 12s in warmer weather and high 11s in the fall.

I just bought an ALDI cable so I can get a datalog for better tuning.



Let me know if you plan on getting to an event.
Old 04-18-2012, 11:10 PM
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Well, your HP curve certainly isn't impossible. The TPI curves in the "10 times the Torque" intake comparison, we found that TPI's flat-lined (w/o dropping back down) using a 236/242 (288HR) cam. IOW, if you're running a big-enough cam, you can keep HP "up" even with a TPI.

Since mine doesn't do that with only a slightly smaller duration. My exhaust (sidepipes) have to be part of the reason, but I think it's more likely that the cam orientation is the bigger reason.

Thanks for putting up with my inquisitive nature. As I mentioned earlier in this thread, it's largely to guage what happened in mine. It feels 30-40% stronger than a stock 350 in sub-4k rpms. But, I have to shift by 5k. It was a custom cam. Maybe they ground some advance in it. And, since I installed it advanced, it's probably how I got ridiculous low-end.

One of these days, I might pull the front apart and retard it.

Very, very nice result TA.

Old 05-13-2012, 07:42 PM
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I added a video in the initial post of the car at idle.

I also successfully datalogged the car and sent the info and chip to PcmForLess. I'm patiently waiting to get the chip back. Then I'll get it back to the dyno and more importantly to the track.
Old 05-13-2012, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TA
I added a video in the initial post of the car at idle.

I also successfully datalogged the car and sent the info and chip to PcmForLess. I'm patiently waiting to get the chip back. Then I'll get it back to the dyno and more importantly to the track.
Wow, that sounds great.........a nice lope but not too radical. It should idle around pretty well in traffic. Congrats!
Old 05-13-2012, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TA
Yep, still using the same converter. I was really tempted to replace it when I had the engine out since it would have been so easy. But like you said, I wasn't sure how much gain there would be.

Your target is what I'm shooting for. I'm guessing low to mid 12s in warmer weather and high 11s in the fall.

I just bought an ALDI cable so I can get a datalog for better tuning.


Q
Let me know if you plan on getting to an event.
You need to dyno tune. Isn't their someone close by to dyno tune for you? There is no way to get good results with a mail order chip.
Old 05-14-2012, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by l98tpi
You need to dyno tune. Isn't their someone close by to dyno tune for you? There is no way to get good results with a mail order chip.
There's several dyno shops in my area, but no one does anything with OBD1 cars anymore. I've had good luck with PCMforless in the past and I'll be giving them more to work with than I have on previous occasions. I'm hoping with a dyno sheet and a datalog they should be able to get it pretty darn close.
Old 06-13-2012, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by TA
I made an interesting discovery tonight while tinkering under the hood. I put about 250 miles on the car prior to the dyno and during that time I drove it verrrry easy. I decided that after the dyno I could start hammering it a bit. Over the past couple days I was noticing the car seemed to be shifting pretty sloppy. I was thinking the trans was starting to slip or the TC was having issues.

I decided I should make sure the TV cable was adjusted properly before I became too concerned. Well damn if I didn't forget to attach the TV cable when I was finishing up the engine. You can even see it if you look at the "after" picture above. I re-attached it and suddenly the shifts are nice and firm again. So I put about 350 miles on the car (including a dyno run) with the TV cable unhooked. I checked the fluid and it looks fine. Any chance I hurt the trans? Any were the dyno numbers affected by the unhooked cable? Anybody have any idea?
this is the kind of stuff I would do on accident. I will have to look at my car in the morning lol...
Old 06-13-2012, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by TA
There's several dyno shops in my area, but no one does anything with OBD1 cars anymore. I've had good luck with PCMforless in the past and I'll be giving them more to work with than I have on previous occasions. I'm hoping with a dyno sheet and a datalog they should be able to get it pretty darn close.
... how did your PCMforless tune turn out?

it would be d*mn near impossible in all honesty to tune a car over the internet.

it took me 200 hours plus or minus 50 hours to get mine solid through 5000rpm, including idle issues on a new TB and playing around witht he spark curve to remove all the new knock... ... but there is alot of things going on in the engine you actually have to sort of "watch it as it's happening" to make notes in your datalog. and that doesn't even include if stuff like old air intake temperature sensors and coolant sensors being off are throwing your tune out of wack.
Old 06-13-2012, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mistaben
... how did your PCMforless tune turn out?

it would be d*mn near impossible in all honesty to tune a car over the internet.

it took me 200 hours plus or minus 50 hours to get mine solid through 5000rpm, including idle issues on a new TB and playing around witht he spark curve to remove all the new knock... ... but there is alot of things going on in the engine you actually have to sort of "watch it as it's happening" to make notes in your datalog. and that doesn't even include if stuff like old air intake temperature sensors and coolant sensors being off are throwing your tune out of wack.
I think it turned out pretty well. I really have no way to gauge it. It seems to run great. As a matter of fact, it ran a bit choppy before the newest tune and I initially attributed that to the cam. Now, it really seems to run as smooth as it did with old engine (except obviously with more power). It sets no codes. I had it back to the dyno and it made more power and torque and the AFR seems to be in order. I guess I could datalog it again and compare it to the old log, but I really don't know what I'm looking at so I'd have to ask you guys for help in interpreting. I don't see any way it could off too far.

Here's the new dyno scan. The HP numbers are a bit misleading I think. Just like the older dyno run, there's some kind of run-out in the higher RPM. This time its the highest point on the HP curve so it looks like that's what read as the peak number. I'm going ask the operator to pull the scan up again and cut the graph off earlier so it won't read that portion. With all that being said it still made more power and more torque, even disregarding the run-out at the end.

You'll also notice that again this thing made power all the way up to 5500 RPM. I still don't understand, but now its been backed up on multiple dyno runs over different days


Last edited by TA; 06-13-2012 at 09:16 AM.
Old 06-13-2012, 08:43 AM
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Nice numbers. The difference in TPI and LT1 intake's HP and torque is radically different. The TPI really makes good torque numbers.

Last edited by 93VettePilot; 06-14-2012 at 09:34 AM.
Old 06-14-2012, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by TA
I think it turned out pretty well. I really have no way to gauge it. It seems to run great. As a matter of fact, it ran a bit choppy before the newest tune and I initially attributed that to the cam. Now, it really seems to run as smooth as it did with old engine (except obviously with more power). It sets no codes. I had it back to the dyno and it made more power and torque and the AFR seems to be in order. I guess I could datalog it again and compare it to the old log, but I really don't know what I'm looking at so I'd have to ask you guys for help in interpreting. I don't see any way it could off too far.

Here's the new dyno scan. The HP numbers are a bit misleading I think. Just like the older dyno run, there's some kind of run-out in the higher RPM. This time its the highest point on the HP curve so it looks like that's what read as the peak number. I'm going ask the operator to pull the scan up again and cut the graph off earlier so it won't read that portion. With all that being said it still made more power and more torque, even disregarding the run-out at the end.

You'll also notice that again this thing made power all the way up to 5500 RPM. I still don't understand, but now its been backed up on multiple dyno runs over different days

It still could use a little more tuning. From 3500-4800 could be a little richer and from 5000-6000 could be a little leaner. But wow! That's a lot of torque. It should leap off the line.
Old 07-03-2012, 12:10 AM
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wow you make more torque then gregg!

on a serious note. what rpm are you shifting at? looking at the torque curve....sooner the better?
Old 07-03-2012, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 88BlackZ-51
wow you make more torque then gregg!

on a serious note. what rpm are you shifting at? looking at the torque curve....sooner the better?
I haven't touched anything with the trans, so it's still shifting around 5k (letting the car shift itself). I still need to get to the track and see how it runs and then I may mess with shift points. It's been so damn hot around here lately so I've been waiting for a little better weather to get a track day in.
Old 07-03-2012, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 88BlackZ-51
wow you make more torque then gregg!

on a serious note. what rpm are you shifting at? looking at the torque curve....sooner the better?

this is a common misconcept on determing shift points!!

Rear wheel torque makes acceleration, not motor torque!!

Didn't look at your gear ratios.....but assuming a 70% drop in rpm, shifting at 5000 rpm (315rwhp) would drop you back to about 3500 rpm (300 rwhp).

You would be better off upping the shift point to say 5700 rpm (312 rwhp) which would drop you back to 4000 rpm (310 rwhp).

But wow does that motor have some low end torque!!

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Old 07-03-2012, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by LT4BUD
this is a common misconcept on determing shift points!!

Rear wheel torque makes acceleration, not motor torque!!

Didn't look at your gear ratios.....but assuming a 70% drop in rpm, shifting at 5000 rpm (315rwhp) would drop you back to about 3500 rpm (300 rwhp).

You would be better off upping the shift point to say 5700 rpm (312 rwhp) which would drop you back to 4000 rpm (310 rwhp).

But wow does that motor have some low end torque!!

This is about what I was thinking. I'm probably gonna try to up the shift points by 5-700 RPM or so. I'm just not looking forward to messing with the weights and springs in the trans
Old 07-03-2012, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by LT4BUD
this is a common misconcept on determing shift points!!

Rear wheel torque makes acceleration, not motor torque!!

Didn't look at your gear ratios.....but assuming a 70% drop in rpm, shifting at 5000 rpm (315rwhp) would drop you back to about 3500 rpm (300 rwhp).

You would be better off upping the shift point to say 5700 rpm (312 rwhp) which would drop you back to 4000 rpm (310 rwhp).

But wow does that motor have some low end torque!!



Years back a friend had a similar combo but not as much tq and the car went quicker when shifted earlier.

Hard to say exactly in regards to the dyno curve but.....

6000 rpms 275 rwtq
5500 rpms 330 rwtq
4500 rpms 375 rwtq

4500-6000 rpms 310-315 rwhp


I would think that ringing it out would make total sense if the tq curve was more like a miniram, but this isnt the case.....

Looking forward to some track mph shifting at 5000 versus say 5700 rpm's.

Dont get me wrong....This combo looks killer!

Last edited by 88BlackZ-51; 07-03-2012 at 09:49 AM.
Old 07-03-2012, 09:24 AM
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Tom, all I can say about the new dyno results is "WOW" .. That's one sweet running motor.....Are you going to Carlisle this year???..WW


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