Sealing the Opti
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 14,165
Likes: 9
Sealing the Opti
I know several people have discussed taking some RTV and sealing the opti before installing it. I am about to install the newer style onto my 92 and I don't want to have any trouble with it. I haven't had any trouble with my current opti, but while I'm into it I might as well do everything I can to assure that the new one won't fail. Does anybody have any pictures of exactly where the new opti should be sealed. I think I have an idea, but since I don't have one in front of me I can't tell for sure.
For those who are curious I am only replacing the opti because I will be going for attempt 3 at "fix the oil leak." While I'm into it I'm going to be installing a Pete Jackson gear drive which will require me to install the new style opti.
I shouldn't have any oil leaks this time, I don't even have a water pump drive to worry about, that hole has been welded, and I'm using the OEM pre lubricataed crank seal.
For those who are curious I am only replacing the opti because I will be going for attempt 3 at "fix the oil leak." While I'm into it I'm going to be installing a Pete Jackson gear drive which will require me to install the new style opti.
I shouldn't have any oil leaks this time, I don't even have a water pump drive to worry about, that hole has been welded, and I'm using the OEM pre lubricataed crank seal.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 934
Likes: 0
From: MO
Re: Sealing the Opti (bogus)
I took black rtv and covered the whole top part where they meet. I put a couple of applications on and made it so there wasn't a valley anymore but a hill of rtv. I let it sit for a while then applied more. This may sound crazy but after mine went out by getting my car detailed I was obsessed! I hoped the new rtv would keep fluids from puddling in there. I don't know if this is the
best way but made sense to me! :crazy:
best way but made sense to me! :crazy:
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 1
From: PA
Re: Sealing the Opti (Nathan Plemons)
Make sure you buy fresh, black Permatex RTV. It is rated at a higher temp than the colored varieties and sticks better than most. Apply a 1/8" to 1/4" dia bead to the lower cap-to-base seam and the upper cap to lower cap seam. Do not remove the cap to do this. The clearance between the rotor and cap does not allow you to put permatex in the seam and bolt it together because it will ooze inward. Simply coat the parts and quickly use a hobby brush to form the bead into a mound shape with more width. Do not allow the permatex to begin setting before using the wire brush. Work fast or do it in smaller sections with overlap. Be sure to thoroughly coat the white foam around the control wires with a thorough blob & smooth it with a brush. If you can see ANY white, do another coat. That is the weak link.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,047
Likes: 0
Re: Sealing the Opti (Nathan Plemons)
I sealed around the top of min and around the electrical connector. I also sealed around the bottom 3rd of the unit to resist against oil slinging up from the crank snout seal. Why not the whole cap? Well, my thinking is that the unit needs to be able to breath a little. After 80k+ miles on mine, there was minimal "weather" related issues internally. But the oil? There was enough oil inside that it definitely warrants sealing the bottom.
Good luck with that timing gear set! How do you intend to get the crank snout off? I'm thinking the motor is going to get jacked up above the power steering but am curious if there's a special "in-car" trick!?!?
Good luck with that timing gear set! How do you intend to get the crank snout off? I'm thinking the motor is going to get jacked up above the power steering but am curious if there's a special "in-car" trick!?!?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 14,165
Likes: 9
Re: Sealing the Opti (EricVonHa)
The first time I ever took it off, that's how I did it, and it's a real PITA. Later I noticed that the power steering rack is actually low enough to clear, but one of the lines runs right in the way. Wouldn't you know that the little line is curved up right there for no other reason than to allow you to run a puller through it. It works just fine and cuts the project time WAY down because you don't have to loosen everything else just to move the motor.
Getting the actual balancer off of the hub might be tricky if you've never had it off before. Raising the motor will give you more room to work with that, but since mine has been off before it's no longer fused together with rust and it comes off quite easily after the bolts are removed. I know it doesn't look like there is room to work in there, but somehow there is.
Getting the actual balancer off of the hub might be tricky if you've never had it off before. Raising the motor will give you more room to work with that, but since mine has been off before it's no longer fused together with rust and it comes off quite easily after the bolts are removed. I know it doesn't look like there is room to work in there, but somehow there is.
