Edelbrock 3893 intake for l98? Also quick opinion?
#21
I'm hoping that's not the case, I'll be swapping engines soon and the new one is going in with a miniram on it. I'm planning to block the EGR port on the headers (unless I wind up adding the EGR plate to the miniram). The kit looks fairly complete. I'll have to extend the heater hose to the intake since you remove the throttle body coolant passage and lines. Hopefully that's all that's going to be required. I'll know soon enough.
#22
Race Director
I'm hoping that's not the case, I'll be swapping engines soon and the new one is going in with a miniram on it. I'm planning to block the EGR port on the headers (unless I wind up adding the EGR plate to the miniram). The kit looks fairly complete. I'll have to extend the heater hose to the intake since you remove the throttle body coolant passage and lines. Hopefully that's all that's going to be required. I'll know soon enough.
It's not "bolt-up".
#23
Race Director
the reason i ask is that someone has an edelbrock 3860 base for sale here second hand for $150, I have done some basic porting and siamesing on my SLP's and port matched my stock manifold to the SLP and bottoms to the Edelbrock heads,
is it worth buying the Edelbrock manifold at that price ?
is it worth buying the Edelbrock manifold at that price ?
I would actually consider slps hand-porting as Cuisy shows...then send to extrude hone for best result.
Eddy's port diameter are between slp's and TPIS/ASM "as cast". Probably not worth their pricetag...unless you DO like those cast-in ribs.
#24
Ah, guess I forgot that I'm cheating. I'm pulling the splayed main cap 353 (.020 over 350) out of my '92 Camaro Z28 track car and throwing it in a 6 speed '91. It had a stealth ram on it before, it's already cammed, I have a tune, etc. So I'm going to drop the intake on, toss on some headers and "go", or that's the plan.
I was worried that there was a difficult physical fitment issue that I hadn't picked up on. My apologies for misunderstanding "how" it wasn't a bolt on.
#25
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
Posts: 81,242
Received 3,043 Likes
on
2,602 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05
THinking back the miniram kit may just come with the fuel line adapters. I remmeber it came with a number of pieces.
Gregg I didnt do that work in the pics it was someone elses.
Gregg I didnt do that work in the pics it was someone elses.
#26
The miniram came with a thermostat housing, temp sensor and wiring extension to reach the new location, stainless ARP intake bolts, stainless thermostat housing bolts, stainless throttle body bolts, Fel-pro intake gaskets, braided AN fuel lines, fuel line to AN adapters, throttle cable bracket, and a baggie of other things I haven't had time to get into yet.
#27
Race Director
Stock tubes are 1.45" (ID) mandrel bent. They're smooth on the inside w/o interference from mounting "bosses".
SLPs are considered 1.55" but are very rough/uneven on the inside. Plus, they have internal protrusions/bumps from the mounting bosses. IOW, there's actual variance in the ID. You could say they're poorly made. You should say they're a casting vs, smooth mandrel-bent tubes. In of itself, that can be a difference.
Edelbrock's are (IIRC) about 1.6" ID. They are well made (and IIRC) cast -- but smooth -- down the tubes. There isn't any mounting boss interference. Out of the box, the Eddy's are better than the slp's. (and I'm not convinced that siamese slit does much).
TPIS and AS&M runners are smooth, mandrel-bent tubing with and ID of 1.65". Out of the box, they are very good and the best improvement.
That is, unless you port, siamese, and/or e-hone the crap out of the smaller SLP units. They have the most potential, but they require the most work. I spent about 3 days (24hrs) on mine. I could have spent more. They could flow more.
The FIRST Fuel Injections intake has tubes that measure 1.9" ID. That's a huge bump...and they're well-made on the inside. Stock tubes flow a bit less than 200cfm. FIRST's flow about 300cfm (with minor porting). The other choices flow less than 250cfm --- ported. And, I mean well-ported.
Since intake's are (ideally) supposed to flow 15% more than your head runner tract, that should give you an idea of what to shoot for.
Stock 113's flow about 185 cfm.
Keep in mind, the primary benefit of longtube isn't how they flow up top. It's how well they hold/amplify the reversion charge. Rough, uneven, and internal imperfections can kill this effect. That's why base siamesing can kill the gains that longtubes are designed to provide.
#28
Le Mans Master
Gregg , you forgot the Accel runners... I have a set on my 89 and they measured 1.70 before I even started working on them, now they measure 1.80 and are smooth.... ..WW
Last edited by WW7; 05-05-2012 at 08:52 PM.
#29
Melting Slicks
Thanks for the info Gregg, I have stuck with the tpi long runner set up so far i guess because like others you just keep improving on it bit by bit and suddenly find out you have so much time and money invested that you have already spent your second hand miniram / superram setup money !
#30
I found this intake manifold on Google shopping, and I really don't know anything about it. Would it fit my L98, would it affect my hp and torque like I'd expect (slightly dropped torque, higher hp), is it even a quality part?
http://www.buy.com/pr/product.aspx?s...lerid=35536354
If not this intake, could you find me one that I would benefit from for less money? I am looking for modified lt1 manifolds but no one is selling.
Also, would you consider this a "quality" part in any way? Its a ton cheaper than any other headers I've seen, and I'm curious if it's around as good as some of the more expensive op
http://www.amazon.com/Hooker-2151HKR...1987&carId=001
Thanks for your help
http://www.buy.com/pr/product.aspx?s...lerid=35536354
If not this intake, could you find me one that I would benefit from for less money? I am looking for modified lt1 manifolds but no one is selling.
Also, would you consider this a "quality" part in any way? Its a ton cheaper than any other headers I've seen, and I'm curious if it's around as good as some of the more expensive op
http://www.amazon.com/Hooker-2151HKR...1987&carId=001
Thanks for your help
#33
Le Mans Master
........ The FIRST comes to you at a nominal 1.75" runner ... the one I had was very poorly cast in regards to port/gasket matching ... porting a TPI style intake is a marathon ... there are 42 openings including the throttle body that need grinder attention ... That said ... the FIRST is an awesome intake manifold from a performance standpoint ... its only real limitation is the dynamic reality of the runner lengths ... LOTS of low-end grunt with mid-range out the wazoo but , due to the long runners it fell off rapidly around 5,000 rpm on my 409 cubic inch motor ... it should do better on a smaller (350-ish ) motor ....... the one aspect of the FIRST that most don't consider is that a large mono-blade throttle body is included in the price and that's worth $200-$400 on most other intakes ........
#34
Le Mans Master
This was my choice, Just a bit over $600. for the manifold & fuel rails. Keep in mind though there are other things this intake needs to work. I just got it running & everything set but I haven't had good enough weather to take it out & see what it will do. Just another option for ya.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
#35
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
Posts: 81,242
Received 3,043 Likes
on
2,602 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05
Nice intake right there and a lot easier to install I bet.
That Eddy for 150 is a bargain..shoot I should buy it
Just fininshed porting one last night for a members superram there is plenty of room for gains if youre willing to put in the time or send it .....somewhere
Got almost 10 hrs into this one so far openings are 1.8x-1.9 and big alllll the way through. THeres room
That Eddy for 150 is a bargain..shoot I should buy it
Just fininshed porting one last night for a members superram there is plenty of room for gains if youre willing to put in the time or send it .....somewhere
Got almost 10 hrs into this one so far openings are 1.8x-1.9 and big alllll the way through. THeres room
Last edited by cv67; 02-07-2013 at 12:32 PM.
#36
Le Mans Master
The Pro Flo was extremely easy to install, no runners, no plenum and no vacuum leaks. A small cap hei is a must as is an LS style throttle body. Almost all the cables and the throttle body can be gotten off any newer, (96 up) GM truck. I opted for the polished Summit piece and Lokar cables.
#37
Advanced
Member Since: Dec 2010
Location: Orange So Cal
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My version of the SLP modded runners...
A plate is then welded on and then ported to 1.75 on the openings.
The 3860 base is then welded up enlarged to flow over 300 CFM.
Results....355 cu. in. making 400/430 to the rear wheels.
A plate is then welded on and then ported to 1.75 on the openings.
The 3860 base is then welded up enlarged to flow over 300 CFM.
Results....355 cu. in. making 400/430 to the rear wheels.
#38
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
Posts: 81,242
Received 3,043 Likes
on
2,602 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05
Honestly the way Dons doing it is the best way
Or just cut those things right in half port then weld back together
Getting way down in there is a struggle and think this is where most hit their bottleneck just cant remove a substantial amount of material.
Just scuffing it with a carbide and rolling it out like the pic on p1 will do NOTHING for power.
IMO thats not porting just making a mess lol
The siamesing is overrated for power you need those runners as large in ID as you can get them. If you just have to hav ethe TPI cool....at some point you have to ask yourself "What are you trying to make the intake do" which is usually something it wasnt designed for anyway
Without cutting and welding I wont touch long tube runners anymore just not worth the hassle or $ for either party.
Or just cut those things right in half port then weld back together
Getting way down in there is a struggle and think this is where most hit their bottleneck just cant remove a substantial amount of material.
Just scuffing it with a carbide and rolling it out like the pic on p1 will do NOTHING for power.
IMO thats not porting just making a mess lol
The siamesing is overrated for power you need those runners as large in ID as you can get them. If you just have to hav ethe TPI cool....at some point you have to ask yourself "What are you trying to make the intake do" which is usually something it wasnt designed for anyway
Without cutting and welding I wont touch long tube runners anymore just not worth the hassle or $ for either party.
Last edited by cv67; 02-07-2013 at 12:39 PM.