So I got a line on an L98 engine from an 86 C4, its an early 86 so its an iron head which matches my 85's.

Anyway, I want to rebuild this engine in my garage as time and money allows and when its done, do the swap. I'm not looking to build a monster but I'd like something with more kick than stock. Here's my question, is there a complete hi-po kit I can get for the rebuild or does anyone have suggestions for components? I've seen kits for the stock rebuild, but I'd like a hotter cam, maybe roller rockers, better connecting rods and pistons, etc. I've already done fuel injectors and polished the plenum & runners on the engine already in the car, but if I have to replace them, I will. I want something streetable, dependable and able to work with the current ECM.

I'm asking a lot, I know.

 

First - Whats your budget for this engine and time frame for completion?

Second - There are lots of kits and lots of individual parts that could be assembled into what you want to do but first I need to see your budget and how much time is going to be allotted for the build.
Will

 

I figure if I start within the next couple weeks, I expect to be done by Fall, but I really do not have a specific time frame. However long it takes, it takes. I figure I have around $2000 to spend in parts. But even that is flexible if I'm doing this little by little.

 

I had a burned piston in my 85 L98, so I took it to a shop for a rebuild. It cost a fortune, now a year later my rear main is leaking now that warranty is up. I have had nothing but problems with it. Instead of rebuilding it, I wish that I would have done the crate motor that Summit has for $1500 that is close to what the L98 is. I could have brand new stuff instead of old stuff that was poorly rebuilt and more expensive. I got screwed.

 

I understand, that's why I want to rebuild it myself so I know what's what, take my time and do it right. I got 3 estimates, all around $3000 and only with a year or less warranty. I just don't trust anyone with my car anymore. If my buddy still was in business, this would be a no brainer. His engine rebuilds last and are better than new, shame he sold the shop.

That crate motor is a good motor and in contention. I'd have to swap out the cam and figure a way to get the compression from 8.5:1 to 9:1 to match the stock L98. Right there, I'm at $2000 so its in the budget and simple. But I want to get my hands dirty and maybe teach my 8yo something in the process.

 

That $1500 "Crate Motor" is just someone else junk engine rebuilt by huge remanufacturing company and re-sold by Scummit.... don't think it's any better than what a ho hum local machinest can do.... probally not as good and a really good machinest can do far better.

 

You can build a pretty good short block with 2K.... As for the entire engine - 2K would maybe pay for some decent parts if you reuse the stock crank.

Forged pistons like the Icon PN 9913 $330

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/pisto...-030-bore.html

Another option is the Probe PN 2256 run about $400

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/pisto...-5-7-rods.html

Forged rods like the Scat Pro Stock run about $200-$240

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/conne...-sb_chevy.html

Another rod option would be the Eagle SIR $210-$250

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/conne...-sb_chevy.html

Rings $31

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/pisto...5-64-3-16.html

Rod brgs $21

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/engin...-400-2-10.html

Main brgs $32

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/engin...1968-1995.html

Cam brgs $23

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/engin...7-350-400.html

Oil Pump $20

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/oil-p...-pump-m55.html

That will get the bottom end built, but your gonna need a gasket set $90

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/gaske...injection.html

That's almost $800 in parts.....

If the crank needs to be turned the brgs will change to an undersized part consummate with whatever size the crank is.

Do you just plan on re-using the factory cast iron heads??? There is no way for me to know how much work they will need without inspecting them.... but it could be just surfacing and valve job ($300) all the way to more than a new set of alum heads cost.... Edelbrock E-Streets are like $900....

The machine work on the block alone will cost about $450-$500

$50 - clean
$50 - install cam brgs/freeze plugs
$200 - bore & hone w/plate
$150 - deck ($75 per side)

Again not counting the crank... figure a min $75 to polish it and probally $150-$200 if it needs to be turned.

I can advise you on a small drive-able cam but an 86 was orginally a flat tappet and I don't recomend anyone building a new engine today build one with a flat tappet camshaft. A retro roller is gonna be about $270 for the cam (Howards) and about $325 for the retro fit lifters (Howards)....

There are also some other options for an 86 block - If it's set up for the factory hyd roller - To buy factory roller lifters ($150) but you'll also need the factory spyder and dog bones... If the 86 block is not set up for a hyd roller your SOL and stuck buying the more expensive retro roller stuff....

Last thing off the top of my head is timing chain, rocker arms and pushrods all of which depend on heads, type of cam and lifters.... Rough price est's are:

Timing chain - $100 (Cloyes double roller)
Pushrods - $130 (Manley 5/16 .080)
Rocker arms - $250 (Scorpion)

Will

 

I have an 85 and have done some mods on it.
A tpis 134-700 cam ( torque secrets 221/230 int/exh and 112 degr lobe sep, and the lift is abbout .45). Had higher pistons for better comp. sliight porting of heads (iron 624).ported plenum, large tube runners and big mouth intake. descreened MAF, better airfilter, tpis headers. The engine now is over 300hp and 400ftlbs.
The car is a good daily driver and have excellent throttle response and pulls over 5000 strongly and does not get breathing problems at 4700.
I am happy with the car as so far.And the gas economy is good. With driving on highway and touring I use .95/10 km.
The car is a z-51 with 3.07 differential ratio.
HAd to have a customized chip and Formato did an excellent job.

 

Not an expert and just started my journey with a local builder. But I did pick up a 383 setup (there are 350's as well) for $904 with free shipping from Skip White. It included forged pistons, a scat crank, rings, mains, connecting H-Beam Rods, Flex Plate, and Blancer. All with balance sheet when I received it. So that would be a basic short block minus cam and cam bearings, plus any shop clearance, tank work. If your heads,exhaust, all of that are reusable you could very well do for 2-2.5k.

Best of luck..

Oh yea, my motor isn't back yet so the parts I bought may let me down but some other folks around here have spoke positively of Skip White Performance so I felt pretty good with what I bought.

 

In a couple of years, when my kids are out of college, I am thinking about pulling the l98 and going with the GM Ramjet 350. That is something that I think I could do myself in my garage. I just don't know how I solve the torque converter lock-up problem when I delete the ECM.

 

You can buy a new GM 350 vortec shortblock for around 1100-1200 bux. (I cant find the pt number right now but I have bought 3 of these)
That would be a decent upgrade and roller cam ready. You would need a few extra parts because it only comes with the block, crank,bearings, rods, pistons and rings. All assembled.
You would need the newer (87up) pan/gasket dipstick/tube and other stuff.