1989 Corvette L98 383 Stroker Question
07-29-2012, 02:03 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor'13
1989 Corvette L98 383 Stroker Question
I am thinking about doing this project on my 1989 L98 corvette and I was wondering if someone could give me some links to all the parts I would need whether it is a a kit with everything included or a bunch of links with all the parts I will need.
Help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Stephen
Help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Stephen
07-29-2012, 04:21 PM
#2
Race Director
Man, that depends on the extent of your project!
Don't pay attention to anyone who replies...unless they qualify exactly what you'd be getting.
You need to read more and post more about what you want....what your goal is.
Don't pay attention to anyone who replies...unless they qualify exactly what you'd be getting.
You need to read more and post more about what you want....what your goal is.
07-29-2012, 05:23 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
Way to capture a thread Gregg.
If it were me, I'd give Year one, Northern Auto Parts, the boys at Pace Chevrolet, Scroggin Dickey, and Summit Racing
a call, and discuss it with them as well as Jegs.
All of them sell crate motors too.
Depends on what you want, and what you are willing to spend.
Go on line to Chevy High Performance magazine, they have articles on 383 crate motors and vendors who sell them.
Sometimes, it's easier and more cost effective to get one already assembled If you really don't know what you want other than horsepower and torque numbers. Also, be realistic if you are using the TPI.
What you want is an internally balanced crank, clearanced rods, and ARP fasteners for starters.
Go through Jegs catalog for compression ratios, and when all that is over, find a really good machine shop where you can get the machine work done on your block.
Thorough block cleaning, bore, hone, main bore alignment check, rod clearancing, cam bearings installed and crack checked.
If you have the machine shop assemble your short block, go through and check all the clearances yourself in the presence of the machinist so that you both agree it's right on. Make sure the cam is installed when checking clearances.
Crankshafts have been known to hit cams and the pan rail of various engine blocks.
Once that is done, you can assemble the rest of the engine if you feel you have the skills and understanding necessary to get it together correctly, then assemble the rest of the intake after it's installed.....chains and other hardware dents intake runners very easy.
It's pretty self condemning if you get it home, build it, and then find out something was overlooked.
Don't be afraid to ask questions.
I would follow the recommendations at the machine shop for clearances and parts.
Intake and chips, there are other people for that.
Just try to be realistic on what you want out of the 383. If you want to drive it, you need a mild cam, and 9.0 compression.
If you want a race car, how much are you willing to spend equals how fast you will go.
If you go conservative, you will have more fun and break/adjust less often.
Just remember the net value of your car right now.
Understand the net value of your car when you are done.
If you were to lose your job the day after you finished getting it running and driving, If your car was worth $7000 before tearing it apart, after you spend $4000 to get what you want, it will be worth $8500-$9000......or less.
Don't be mad, but I found a new 4 bolt 383 roller at a wrecking yard for $300 that it appears the last owner torched the car because he screwed up the assembly of the engine.
Once I figured out what he did, it was about $100 plus heads to fix.
If it were me, I'd give Year one, Northern Auto Parts, the boys at Pace Chevrolet, Scroggin Dickey, and Summit Racing
a call, and discuss it with them as well as Jegs.
All of them sell crate motors too.
Depends on what you want, and what you are willing to spend.
Go on line to Chevy High Performance magazine, they have articles on 383 crate motors and vendors who sell them.
Sometimes, it's easier and more cost effective to get one already assembled If you really don't know what you want other than horsepower and torque numbers. Also, be realistic if you are using the TPI.
What you want is an internally balanced crank, clearanced rods, and ARP fasteners for starters.
Go through Jegs catalog for compression ratios, and when all that is over, find a really good machine shop where you can get the machine work done on your block.
Thorough block cleaning, bore, hone, main bore alignment check, rod clearancing, cam bearings installed and crack checked.
If you have the machine shop assemble your short block, go through and check all the clearances yourself in the presence of the machinist so that you both agree it's right on. Make sure the cam is installed when checking clearances.
Crankshafts have been known to hit cams and the pan rail of various engine blocks.
Once that is done, you can assemble the rest of the engine if you feel you have the skills and understanding necessary to get it together correctly, then assemble the rest of the intake after it's installed.....chains and other hardware dents intake runners very easy.
It's pretty self condemning if you get it home, build it, and then find out something was overlooked.
Don't be afraid to ask questions.
I would follow the recommendations at the machine shop for clearances and parts.
Intake and chips, there are other people for that.
Just try to be realistic on what you want out of the 383. If you want to drive it, you need a mild cam, and 9.0 compression.
If you want a race car, how much are you willing to spend equals how fast you will go.
If you go conservative, you will have more fun and break/adjust less often.
Just remember the net value of your car right now.
Understand the net value of your car when you are done.
If you were to lose your job the day after you finished getting it running and driving, If your car was worth $7000 before tearing it apart, after you spend $4000 to get what you want, it will be worth $8500-$9000......or less.
Don't be mad, but I found a new 4 bolt 383 roller at a wrecking yard for $300 that it appears the last owner torched the car because he screwed up the assembly of the engine.
Once I figured out what he did, it was about $100 plus heads to fix.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; 07-29-2012 at 05:57 PM.
07-29-2012, 05:35 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
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Location: California
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St. Jude Donor'13
Way to capture a thread Gregg.
If it were me, I'd give Northern Auto Parts a call, and discuss it with them as well as the boys at Pace Chevrolet, Scroggin Dickey, and Summit Racing.
jegs even sells a kit.
What you want is an internally balanced crank, brand new ground rods, and ARP fasteners for starters.
Go through Jegs catalog for compression ratios, and when all that is over, find a really good machine shop where you can get the machine work done on your block.
Thorough block cleaning, bore, hone, main bore alignment check, rod clearancing, and crack checked.
If you have the machine shop assemble your short block, go through and check all the clearances yourself in the presence of the machinist so that you both agree it's right on. Once that is done, you can assemble the engine if you feel you have the skills and understanding necessary to get it together correctly, then assemble the rest of the engine after it's installed.....
It's pretty self condemning if you get it home, build it, and then find out something was overlooked.
Don't be afraid to ask questions.
I would follow the recommendations at the machine shop for clearances and parts.
Intake and chips, there are other people for that.
Just try to be realistic on what you want out of the 383. If you want to drive it, you need a mild cam, and 9.0 compression.
If you want a race car, how much are you willing to spend equals how fast you will go.
Don't be mad, but I found a new 4 bolt 383 roller at a wrecking yard for $300 that it appears the last owner torched because he screwed up the assembly of the engine.
Once I figured out what he did, it was about $100 plus heads to fix.
If it were me, I'd give Northern Auto Parts a call, and discuss it with them as well as the boys at Pace Chevrolet, Scroggin Dickey, and Summit Racing.
jegs even sells a kit.
What you want is an internally balanced crank, brand new ground rods, and ARP fasteners for starters.
Go through Jegs catalog for compression ratios, and when all that is over, find a really good machine shop where you can get the machine work done on your block.
Thorough block cleaning, bore, hone, main bore alignment check, rod clearancing, and crack checked.
If you have the machine shop assemble your short block, go through and check all the clearances yourself in the presence of the machinist so that you both agree it's right on. Once that is done, you can assemble the engine if you feel you have the skills and understanding necessary to get it together correctly, then assemble the rest of the engine after it's installed.....
It's pretty self condemning if you get it home, build it, and then find out something was overlooked.
Don't be afraid to ask questions.
I would follow the recommendations at the machine shop for clearances and parts.
Intake and chips, there are other people for that.
Just try to be realistic on what you want out of the 383. If you want to drive it, you need a mild cam, and 9.0 compression.
If you want a race car, how much are you willing to spend equals how fast you will go.
Don't be mad, but I found a new 4 bolt 383 roller at a wrecking yard for $300 that it appears the last owner torched because he screwed up the assembly of the engine.
Once I figured out what he did, it was about $100 plus heads to fix.
Also I am not all sure what I need to do this, that is why I would like a kit of some sort or at least links or a list of all the parts I would need. I am good with engine work and my uncle has a machine shop so he can help me on the machined parts and the rest I know how to do, I just don't know what all parts I need.
Thanks for responding.
07-29-2012, 05:49 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
How much engine assembly do you have ? be honest. Then do a realistic summation of all the costs involved, especially if you plan on or need to send the motor out for more than the bare minimum of machine shop work. Remember, you're probably going to be looking at the costs associated with getting the heads done also. Then read buildup threads on this forum (and elsewhere) and note how often unsatisfactory machine work has lead to dissapointment, frustration, delay and unexpected extra costs.
Then consider if you would be time and money ahead to get a new 383 GM crate engine. seriously.
Then consider if you would be time and money ahead to get a new 383 GM crate engine. seriously.
07-29-2012, 06:01 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor'13
How much engine assembly do you have ? be honest. Then do a realistic summation of all the costs involved, especially if you plan on or need to send the motor out for more than the bare minimum of machine shop work. Remember, you're probably going to be looking at the costs associated with getting the heads done also. Then read buildup threads on this forum (and elsewhere) and note how often unsatisfactory machine work has lead to dissapointment, frustration, delay and unexpected extra costs.
Then consider if you would be time and money ahead to get a new 383 GM crate engine. seriously.
Then consider if you would be time and money ahead to get a new 383 GM crate engine. seriously.
07-29-2012, 06:07 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
Go to Jegs, Summmit, Northern. You are apparently asking about a rotating assembly.
Talk to Myron Cottrel at TPI specialties for a cam.
After clearancing the block and rods, it's just assembly.
Also check pan rail clearance.
Understand this......The engine you desire lives in your head. Write it down so when someone asks you what you want, you can give details.
I built my 383 conservative. I have over 8500 miles on it with no breakage and minimal upkeep, just like the 350.
But, I found an engine with all the machine work and parts already installed and messed up.
I had to do some research to find out what was incorrectly assembled.
Do some research of your own. call these people. They produce kits that are crank, rods, and pistons that have the compression ratio of your choice.
If it were me, I would do the 9.0:1 so I could use cheap gas.
If you get a c\ertain piston, you can change compression ratios with head volume, head gaskets and valve machining, head machining, etc.
The engine that came with your car has a 14cc dish piston and 58cc heads.
I would do 64cc heads and maybe 10cc pistons. Get zero deck height as well, but that is machining, and careful piston choices.
It all depends on what you want.
Most places tailor a kit to your engine goal.
Talk to Myron Cottrel at TPI specialties for a cam.
After clearancing the block and rods, it's just assembly.
Also check pan rail clearance.
Understand this......The engine you desire lives in your head. Write it down so when someone asks you what you want, you can give details.
I built my 383 conservative. I have over 8500 miles on it with no breakage and minimal upkeep, just like the 350.
But, I found an engine with all the machine work and parts already installed and messed up.
I had to do some research to find out what was incorrectly assembled.
Do some research of your own. call these people. They produce kits that are crank, rods, and pistons that have the compression ratio of your choice.
If it were me, I would do the 9.0:1 so I could use cheap gas.
If you get a c\ertain piston, you can change compression ratios with head volume, head gaskets and valve machining, head machining, etc.
The engine that came with your car has a 14cc dish piston and 58cc heads.
I would do 64cc heads and maybe 10cc pistons. Get zero deck height as well, but that is machining, and careful piston choices.
It all depends on what you want.
Most places tailor a kit to your engine goal.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; 07-29-2012 at 06:11 PM.
07-29-2012, 11:08 PM
#8
Race Director
I built my 383 conservative. If it were me, I would do the 9.0:1 so I could use cheap gas.
The engine that came with your car has a 14cc dish piston and 58cc heads. I would do 64cc heads and maybe 10cc pistons. Get zero deck height as well, but that is machining, and careful piston choices.
The engine that came with your car has a 14cc dish piston and 58cc heads. I would do 64cc heads and maybe 10cc pistons. Get zero deck height as well, but that is machining, and careful piston choices.
07-30-2012, 08:00 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
...... Very basically , you need a 3.75 stroke crankshaft and some new pistons ... the block will need to be clearanced for the new stroke ... you can change the rods if you wish ... depending on which rods you choose , you may need a small base circle cam ..... the rest you should already know and / or your uncle could guide you ............ Anything else you decide to change is on someones web site or in a catalog ... go eye shopping ... and make a list ......
07-30-2012, 11:49 AM
#10
Melting Slicks
07-30-2012, 11:55 AM
#11
Race Director
Look at Lunati, Eagle, Scat and other crankshaft companies. Also ebay has a million kits listed. Remember, a lot of times, you get what you pay for.
07-30-2012, 01:29 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
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I am now either looking at this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-383-CHEV...06%26rk%3D1%26
or this
https://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=81
to do the project with. Any suggestions of which one is better for an automatic transmission?
Also I would like to say thanks to everyone that has helped me and it is greatly appreciated.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-383-CHEV...06%26rk%3D1%26
or this
https://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=81
to do the project with. Any suggestions of which one is better for an automatic transmission?
Also I would like to say thanks to everyone that has helped me and it is greatly appreciated.
07-30-2012, 04:55 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
......... " Cast from special space age material " ......... Love it ... don't buy a kit with flat-top pistons ... the stock heads on your vette have 58cc combustion chambers ... you need about a 20cc dished piston to keep your compression ratio manageable .........
07-30-2012, 11:56 PM
#14
Race Director
No flattops with the stock heads! I remember one guy did it, had surprisingly fast results. For about 3 wks. Then boom!
Review the suggestions for compression ratio in this thread. And, remember, compression ratio goes UP just from increasing the stroke. You need bigger chambers or deeper dish pistons.
White could hook you up -- if you tell them your specs. So could the tech guys as many stroker-kit vendors.
I bought a couple of things from White for my build. CNC-Motorsport has good prices too. (But they PO'd me by selling the wrong part AND making me pay re-stocking -- for their error!)
Last edited by GREGGPENN; 07-31-2012 at 12:00 AM.
07-31-2012, 03:58 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
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I am trying to find a complete kit so it will be easier. I guess in a couple of days I will call northern auto or summit racing and ask them what all I need for what I want.
07-31-2012, 11:30 PM
#16
Race Director
Are you going to bore the block? Are you running the stock heads and intake? Exhaust? Headers? Cam? Do you care what compression?
08-01-2012, 03:00 PM
#17
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Try the book "Building High Performance SBC Engines on a Budget" by David Vizard. It covers carb only, but discusses quality parts and techniques that are cheap in building the long block. I built a 450hp 475tq 383 with this guidance
08-02-2012, 10:53 AM
#18
Le Mans Master
If you go through the Jegs catalog, you will find the piston section. they outline the reliefs and head volumes that yield various compression ratios. Even if you don't buy from them, their book is a great reference.