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Squeaky serpintine?

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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 05:14 PM
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Default Squeaky serpintine?

I am noticeing more noise from the belt. I saw a slight wobble in the crank pulley. I thought I would releave the tension on the idler and check the bolt . Should I be concerned?
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 03:55 PM
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Just how do you propose to relieve the tension?
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 04:17 PM
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I would defiantly check. I had the tensioner pulley explode about 50 miles from home. That really sucked but I made it home barely. I replaced the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley they seem to be the weak link and not too bad to replace. Unless it is February in a unheated garage in New Jersey where the temperature goes from -10 to 110.

T
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Just how do you propose to relieve the tension?
I checked it today, I wanted to make the belt loose when I tried to tighten the pulley ,balancer. The crank bolt felt like it moved slightly before the engine started turning. I feel like I should pull that bolt out and maybe put some midrange locktite on there and torque it down . Do these things ever just work loose. Low miles 86 all original. 17 K
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by lkl2005
I checked it today, I wanted to make the belt loose when I tried to tighten the pulley ,balancer. The crank bolt felt like it moved slightly before the engine started turning. I feel like I should pull that bolt out and maybe put some midrange locktite on there and torque it down . Do these things ever just work loose. Low miles 86 all original. 17 K
Just torque it to 60ft/lbs and you should be fine. If you have a manual, leave it in 4th with the brake on. If an auto, hopefully engine compression will keep the crank from moving until after you hit 60ft/lbs. Otherwise, have someone hang onto the serpentine belt while torquing.
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Just torque it to 60ft/lbs and you should be fine. If you have a manual, leave it in 4th with the brake on. If an auto, hopefully engine compression will keep the crank from moving until after you hit 60ft/lbs. Otherwise, have someone hang onto the serpentine belt while torquing.
Thanks 383, I have to buy a 1/2 drive torque wrench, I do have 3/8 dr.- in/lbs. The bolt turned nearly 1/4 turn with my breaker bar. I will get the tool and set it to spec. I am happy I noticed the noise.
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 03:26 PM
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I had a squeaky pulley last week.
There is a tensioner range marking on the tensioner. It is there to help you determine that either you have the wrong belt, or your belt has stretched.
On mine, standing on the right side of the car, there is a block cast into the housing, and a needle cast into the arm.
If your belt needs replacing, the needle will be at one end of the block.
I changed my belt, and the squeaking went away.The needle also went to the middle upper range of the block.
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
I had a squeaky pulley last week.
There is a tensioner range marking on the tensioner. It is there to help you determine that either you have the wrong belt, or your belt has stretched.
On mine, standing on the right side of the car, there is a block cast into the housing, and a needle cast into the arm.
If your belt needs replacing, the needle will be at one end of the block.
I changed my belt, and the squeaking went away.The needle also went to the middle upper range of the block.
Good point , I have know idea how old the belt is. Frankly , It seemed very easy to move the idler. Is there a measure of resistance on the idler that is a norm?

All you guys are great, me and my 3rd vette are gonna live forever
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by lkl2005
Good point , I have know idea how old the belt is. Frankly , It seemed very easy to move the idler. Is there a measure of resistance on the idler that is a norm?

All you guys are great, me and my 3rd vette are gonna live forever
Typically the tensioner will start to chatter/bounce as the engine idles. If you can see the tensioner arm moving around ANY just idling, then its time for a new one. The tensioner rides on a plastic bushing inside the housing that wears and allows the arm portion to slide in or out and this throws the pulley roller out of alignment. If that does not eventually cause a belt to fail the loose tensioner spring will as it lets the belt relax then jerk then relax on it as the arm bounces. They DO wear. The best test is movement. If you see the tensioner arm chattering or bouncing ANY when idling, its toast. A good tensioner will be rock solid as the engine idles.
No movement, just the belt quietly rolling around the pulleys...
When worn out, the belt gets pulled in/out of alignment. This causes it to glaze on the slick side and that is where your squeek comes from. New tensioners run around $75 or a bit more. Depends on where/who you buy from.
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 04:20 PM
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Sorry guys to bring this up again..... The bolt for the crank pulley on my 86 keeps coming loose. That is probably a tapered shaft and it would be keyed I assume to keep the balance. I know there is alot of heat inthis area. Is there supposed to be a lockwasher on there.? Would it be ok to use some locktite? runs great But would be a bad day if that thing just fell off the front of the engine. plus I can't think its good to marr the front of the crankshaft in anyway.
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 04:47 PM
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Mine broke right off once the last shop I ever took it to forgot the 3 outer bolts and it broke in half. thankfully about a mile from my house.
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 11:19 PM
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I got my 92 from my son this summer, he wants to buy a house. Anyways over the last 2 summers when he owned the car it blew a belt each summer. I said son you ought to see whats wrong he said "ah at $50 bucks a yr. its cheap to replace" (dumb kids huh). Anyways I noticed a little chatter at start up and slight wobble in the tensioner pulley. Also belt he put on last fall just before winter storage seemed a little slack to me. Bought new tensioner with pulley, $40 Advance Auto replaced on car this weekend.
It was shot by the way, squeak is gone and belt is more tight also.
So I'd say re-place tensioner and pulley and maybe the idler pulley also if needed, less than $60 in parts. I"m going to replace idler pulley and plug wires during Opti replacement this fall.
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 11:31 PM
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I think as long as you use a locktite that can be unbolted in the future you will be OK. Also a lock washer would not hurt, along with a new bolt if possible.
I used a med. locktite (and tightened all 6 screws, they were most all loose) to fix my wobbly mirrors per forum sticky.
Sure is nice not to have to adjust driver mirror every time I drive the car.
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 05:54 AM
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Check your harmonic ballancer outer hub has not slipped?
I have had this happen twice to my 85 it slips back and scrapes against the timing case cover. The second time it scraped thru, i now have a race ballancer that cannot slip.

If the pulley has a wobble your ballancer bolt may have come loose.
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 08:00 AM
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Default Serpentine Tensioner

'89 Vette. Hope this the right place to post this. I had a suspicion that the belt tensioner was bad so I relieved the tension, removed the belt, rolled the pulley and didn't hear any noise so I proceeded to put the belt back on. Relieved the pressure on the tensioner and it's not enough to put the belt back on!!! Could the tensioner have moved somehow? Included is a pic of the tensioner that I have, it has two pins, could these have anything to do with the position of the tensioner? If you're familiar with this type tensioner, please let me know. Thanks for the help. (I was going to include a pic but not sure how to!. Email me for the pic if you can help. Thanks again.)
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by OhioBob
'89 Vette. Hope this the right place to post this. I had a suspicion that the belt tensioner was bad so I relieved the tension, removed the belt, rolled the pulley and didn't hear any noise so I proceeded to put the belt back on. Relieved the pressure on the tensioner and it's not enough to put the belt back on!!! Could the tensioner have moved somehow? Included is a pic of the tensioner that I have, it has two pins, could these have anything to do with the position of the tensioner? If you're familiar with this type tensioner, please let me know. Thanks for the help. (I was going to include a pic but not sure how to!. Email me for the pic if you can help. Thanks again.)
Can't happen.

Go back and seat the belt on ALL the pulleys.

if the tensioner wiggles any at idle, its worn out and will come apart and/or throw the belt. Belt howl or squeek is a glazed belt on the backside. Its JUNK> toss it. Cannot be salvaged.

Last edited by leesvet; Sep 30, 2012 at 04:20 PM.
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 01:36 PM
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Dayco belt company has posted some interesting info about diagnosing belt noise.

http://www.daycow.com/daycow.nsf/Tro...oises!OpenPage
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 03:00 AM
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The large bolt is for the HARMONIC BALANCER on the crank. The crank is keyed and the harmonic balancer has a groove in it. It is press-fit on the crank and can't move. Older Chevy engines didn't have the bolt, so being loose is not a problem (unless the bolt flies off...)

The FAN PULLEY is bolted to the harmonic balancer with three bolts. I didn't see anywhere in the thread where anybody suggested checking the tightness of those bolts. If the pulley is wobbling but the harmonic balancer isn't, then those 3 bolts are suspect.
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