wheeljo2

I just finished replacing the water pump and opti-spark on my 94 LT1 Vette and now I have an oil leak which appears to be coming from the seal around the cam gear that drives the opti-spark. I did not replace it but is this a major oil leak spot? If so, can I change the seal with the timing cover on the engine and do I need any special tools to remove and install? Thanks for your help.

pcolt94

No real special tools needed. If you have the tools to do an opti, you have the tools to put the seal in. Use lube when installing and don't crease the sides during installation. Lots of work to do it again

94z07fx3

Google "sharpie lt1 seal installation" then click images to see it in action.

higgyburners

the OP is talking about the Opti seal not the waterpump seal, and you dont need to use lube on the seal to install it they go in pretty easy really. If you need to do the water pump seal thats a different animal and you should use this tool to do it right the first time, you dont want to tear it down again.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-p...tall-tool.html

TorchTarga94

How bad is the leak? If its small you might just want to leave it alone. Tried fixing mine multiple times with no success. May have even made it worse. You do need a special tool for the water pump seal.

wheeljo2

Ok upon further inspection it looks like my water pump seal around the gear is leaking oil on top of my opti-spark and yesterday I was getting my vette emissions inspected on the chassis roller and with the back end tilted up it must have made it leak more because the opti started acting up, hopefully it did not ruin my new opti I just put on, I guess I can pull the cover once I get it off and inspect the inside when I replace the front cover seals.

KJL

I am going to be likely replacing mine now that I need to replace the water pump on my LT4. Where does one buy the opti and water pump seals?

Thanks

94z07fx3

Summit Racing would be my first stop. GM Parts Direct would be stop #2.

TorchTarga94

Advanced Auto has the front timing seal kit in stock for around $10. Includes all 3 seals and the gasket for the front cover. You can buy it online and pick it up in store. Use the code M20 at checkout for 20% off.

KJL

Ordered the kit but I have one question, does the timing cover have to be removed to replace the crank seal? I read in another post that is does and the oil pan has to be dropped a bit to get the cover past the lip. I had to drop the pan on my 72 to remove cover, didn't realize this had to be done on the 96. I am not going down that road. You may fix one leak but create 3 others.....no way.

TorchTarga94

No you do not have to remove the front cover to replace the front crank seal. But, ensure you have a leak there before you decide to remove it because it isn't exactly fun without the proper Kent Moore factory puller.

KJL

Agreed, I need to pull the balancer/pulley to get the opti off for inspection anyway, I will check the seal at that point, it may be difficult to tell because I am sure everything is caked with sludge. I was going to do this in the garage but decided to do outside. Going to need to put car on ramps as well to knock pulley off from under car....what fun.

TorchTarga94

Been there..Twice. When you get the pulley off make sure you clean the back side and wipe some antiseize on it where it mates to the hub. Makes removing it a breeze in the future if need be.

KJL

Have you ever replaced the crank positioning sensor o-ring seal? If so, where did you order it from? Sounds like one of those things u can only get if you buy the sensor.

Have you replaced the crank seal? wondering best way to pry it out without damaging the cover or crank. Figured I would tap it in using a piece of PVC pipe.

TorchTarga94

I have a 94' so no crank position sensor for me. That was a 96' OBDII thing only.

I have replaced the front crank seal, twice actually. Once because it was leaking due to age (100k miles). I replaced it and used the original hub which had a slight groove worn into it. This wore out the new seal and started to leak again. I pulled the hub and replaced the seal again but used a new billet steel hub.



To remove it get yourself a seal puller from your local parts store. Makes removing it a lot easier. You can use a peace of PVC pipe to tap it back in. I used a piece of PVC pipe the same diameter as the outer part of the seal, and then took my hub puller and threaded the crank bolt back into the crank and tightened it to actually "press" it back in. Hard to explain but works perfectly.

desertmike1

same thing happened to me.. I let it go for about a year, right before I decided to fix it.. it dried up.

SnAkeDr

I'm looking to do the same think on my 1994 LT1. Where did you get the billet hub from?

TorchTarga94

http://www.nookandtranny.com/mm5/mer...Category_Code=

They also have it listed on Fleabay. You will have to remove the dowel with vice grips if you are going to use the stock dampener.

SnAkeDr

Thanks!!

TorchTarga94