Getting ready to put my engine back in I have stainless works long tube headers. Is it easier to install the engine with them already mounted

 

[QUOTE=Sfcsb1;1582629718]Getting ready to put my engine back in I have stainless works long tube headers. Is it easier to install the engine with them already mounted.

SFC, I have no experience with the stainless works headers, however I just installed my engine and put the headers on after the engine was set in place. I installed a set of TPIS long tubes and it would have been a PITA to install the engine with headers attached.

Get four good jack stands or a lift and get the car off the ground and put the headers on from the bottom side. FYI, you need to get the starter in position as you bring the right header into position. Starter most likely wont clear the headers after they are installed.

 

I have doubts you could even mount the engine with headers installed. I also doubt it would be any easier.

I installed mine afterwards...but they weren't SW.

 

Thanks I was looking thru some other posts and saw they had the headers installed. Actually will work better that way headers won't get here until Monday. I will put engine togther tomorrow and install Sunday.

 

As soon as you drop the engine in and before installing all the accesories on the engine is the time to install the headers.This makes it way easier to get the headers in place..The only thing you have to install while putting the headers on is the starter..If you install the starter while the header is in place, but before the header is bolted up, it allows you to wiggle the header to get the bolts on the starter lined up and tightened.. Trust me, you will be glad I mentioned this.....If your bolting into aluminum heads don't forget to use Antiseize on the bolts or you may not get them out later without stripping them.Just thought of another thing that may help you. On some brands of headers the motor mount bolt on the drivers side may hit the header tube, if you reverse this bolt so it goes through from the front to back with the nut towards the back you can solve this problem before you start..... Good luck....WW

 

If this is a 6spd car and the tranny is still in then it is impossible to install the motor with any kind of LT header or any accessories. If it's an auto, it might be possible with the tranny in the car, depends on the length of the headers. Good luck with your build, got any pictures?

 

Thanks for the tips I will get some pics posted as I go

 

I am not the original poster of the thread but will be buying some tpis headers for a 1989 corvette really soon and I have a question. My question is, to install them from the underside like I was planning to, I would have to take off the starter or at least loosen it so that the header can slip under it and bolt on? Or something like that anyways? Or is it something I will figure out along the way that is easier to be seen rather than heard?

 

I can install and remove the TPiS headers on my 85 without messing with the starter. I install the driver side header from the top and the passenger side from underneath. The hardest part is getting access to the rear header bolt on the passenger side. Not much room in there.

 

Yeah, I was looking at that and thinking the same thing. But, you also have an 85 and I have an 89, are they the same for the installation so that maybe I don't have to take off the starter.

 

Here's the original instructions from TPiS:

1984-1996 C4 Header Install Instructions
The headers you are about to install were designed to fit using all of the factory bolts and brackets. There is no need to change the starter. On cars with aluminum heads, you will need to order an early style EGR tube, GM part number 14092329. You can order this part from your local GM dealer or us.

1. You will need a hoist to do this job easily, but it can also be done on jack stands. You will need 25" from the bottom of the floor pan to the floor. Raise and secure the vehicle.
2. Disconnect battery.
3. It is not essential that you remove the exhaust fro the catalytic converter back, but it will make your job easier.
4. Remove the rear Y-pipe to converter bolts. Remove the rear hanger bolts on each muffler. Support the system and remove the Y-pipe hanger bolt, remove rear system.
5. Remove air tube to converter clamp without damaging it. It will be reused.
6. Remove front converter clamp. Remove converter.
7. Trial fit your catalytic converter to the Y-pipe. On cars with slip fit converters it will be necessary to have a muffler shop expand your converter slightly to fit the Y-pipe.
8. Remove O2 sensor from left Y-pipe.
9. Remove clamp attaching air tube to Y-pipe. Remove Y-pipe flange bolts to manifold, remove Y-pipe.
10. Remove spark plugs and wire looms from heads. Remove the air check valves and air tube. Remove AC compressor and alternator support braces. Remove oil dipstick tube and the temp. Sensor wires.
11. Remove exhaust manifold bolts and manifolds. The heat shield on the right side foot-well may have to be removed.
12. On 87 and later cars there are two angle braces from the cross member to the side of the frame. Remove the bolts from the right frame side and loosen the cross member bolt so the brace will hang.
13. Clean gasket surfaces and slip headers in place from the bottom. Install gaskets and header bolts loosely.
14. Swing the frame brace into place and note any interference. Remove brace and trim brace for clearance.
15. Also check for interference with the steering coupler. If present grind to reduce the diameter of the coupler to gain 1/16" of clearance.
16. Place Y-pipe on headers. A rubber hammer can be used to position the Y-pipe securely on the headers and centered in the vehicle.
17. With Y-pipe in place, tighten header bolts.
18. Replace air tube, air valves, sensors wires, AC and alternator supports, spark plugs and wire looms. The bolts for the wire loom will need to be shortened because the looms are now bolted to the header.
19. Install O2 sensor and the catalytic converter.
20. Re-hang the rest of the system and enjoy.
NOTE: Re-torque header bolts after a few hours of driving, and then re-torque again after a week of driving.

 

Thanks a lot for all the help, I will definitely be making sure I use this when installing.

 

had a big block mustang many years back, 427 in a `67 stang, put the headers on the heads then put heads on motor. heads were off for valve /port work.

 

[QUOTE=Veryevilkitten2;1582633389]Thanks a lot for all the help, I will definitely be making sure I use this when installing.

I just installed TPIS headers in my 1990, there great looking and well built headers, the only small issue I had was the right crossmember to frame brace. As stated in the instructions I also needed to trim away some material from that crossmember brace so that the header would clear.

 

Have the engine in I will say the stainless work were easy to install. Went. In through the top on both sides bolted up no problem. Bolted it up to a borla exhaust. 383 stroker Now just have to get it started. Compared to my 73 firebird these were nothing