wheeljo2

I am running a stock 350 LT1 engine freshly rebuilt and mains were line bored CNC ported polish OEM intake and heads with bigger ferrera valves 2.0/1.56 with a Comp Cams Xtreme Energy Camshaft with 230/236 duration at 0.50" lift and 544/555" lift with 1.6 RR's with Comp dual valve springs, Long Tube headers with high flow with dynomax ultra flow mufflers, cut out stock air box lid with K&N filter, ECM retune by PCM 4 Less and 373 gears.

My question is I am running stock 48mm throttle body, fuel injectors, fuel regulator and fuel pump and I was wondering if I would gain any signficiant HP or Torque by upgrading any one or all of these items? Also, what about the RPM air gap intake any major improvements there? I'm not interested in spending money on items that will only provide low digit or percentage gains.

Anything else I should consider to enhance my package?

Thanks for your help and advice!

STL94LT1

I'm running a similar setup: CNC ported heads, 224/230 605/622, 52mm TB, long tubes, 4.10, stock shortblock. When I upgraded to this camshaft the only way my stock injectors would keep up was to up the fuel pressure. I upgraded the injectors to Bosch III 32's. I haven't had the car to the track since the injector upgrade, but it did hurt thew fuel mileage a bit.

You may be ok with the stock injectors if your not reving too high. I like to shift around 6500 rpms.

Don't waste your money on the Air Gap. 've yet to read about any impovement over stock.

Kevin Woods

1. The Edelbrock Air Gap Intake will give you very little.....if anything at all. Save your money.

2. You made no mention of your static compression ratio.....but if you're running stock cumbustion chamber size, then your cam will cause you to be a bit sluggish below 2500 RPMs. 224* duration on the intake will make your car much more responsive.

3. Your stock fuel system outta be good.....but I'd look at 30LB injectors......

$. 52mm TB wouldn't be a bad idea.....but it's not essentual.

KW

wheeljo2

Combustion chambers are stock but have been CNC reworked to clean up the bowl area, I'm running the thinner 0.026" impala ss head gasket so compression ratio is around 10.5/1

not sluggish at all after the 373 gear swap and pcm 4 less retune (made all the difference in the world as they took a lot of the low rpm roughness including the bucking at low speeds), able to be daily driven no problem.

i did install a 160' thermostat this evening and it dropped my coolant and oil temps 20' across the board even after a few WOT pulls.

Also went back to a new stock MAF with the airscreens installed after running ported stock ends with no screens.

also i running a lt4 knock sensor module that is on the backside of the ECM from what i remember not sure if that is hurting or helping me someone told me one time that it would minimize any knock retard sensitivities



i have some ls1 injectors which i believe are 28lbs that i ran for a while but went back to stock thinking the 28lbs were causing too rich of a A/F ratio need to hook up a wideband 02 to know for sure i guess.

heads have also been milled about .016" and i'm having a little problem getting my intake to seal up propertly on the bottom of hte intake ports so that could be causing me some problems, can smell a little oil vapor out the rear but no smoke and oil usage negligible, may have to pull off and get the end rails milled down to push the intake down lower to port match everything. i have been told that oil vapors induced in the intake tract could interfere with the air/fuel ratio and lower the octane of the fuel any truth to that?

also just replaced my water pump and opti and can not get my service engine soon light to go off i used the paper clip method and only came up with a C12 and H48 codes and then cleared them all out and that did not work then I disconnected the battery altogether and the light is still one does it have to run through a bunch of different heat cycles first?

Kevin Woods

As long as you aren't getting any real knock, this module can't/won't hurt you at all.

The LT4 module is designed to reduce the sensitivity of the knock sensors so that things like headers (louder engine noise) and roller rockers (that darn clatter) won't cause the PCM to pull timing.

It probably won't have as much, if any, effect against ACTUAL knock, so in that event your knock sensors will still be able to do their job.

KW

STL94LT1

Take a close look at the MAF's wiring/connector.