hitmanpty

I have some pictures from the time I take out the driver side head.

I remeber at the time I have a leaking valve on number one and number7

number 5 had no problem

I did correct the problem by hand sanding.

here is a picture of the head. the valve dont look that bad. I guest I had the same problem at the time no fire on 1 and 5

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Kevova

Any repairs related to distributor? Verify pick up coil and shaft a both for V8 ie 8 points on both. If miss matched with 6 cyl parts it can start and scope pattern will be unique. PCM could cause it but would be very unusual, Do you have access to "sun scope" to observe ignition firing pattern? Be sure coil mounting screws in cap haven't breached bottom of cap were spark will jump to screw vs terminal for plug wire. Also ground strap or terminal is present. Sometimes screws are slightly too long or ground terminal doesn't get transferred.

Kevova

From pix you have wrong reach spark plugs - too long

hitmanpty

I did some mejor overhauling to distributor about a year ago. I change every part new exept for the module.. cap, pick up coil, coil rotor.

can this be causing 2 dead cylinder. can you please explain in a way that spanish dude can understand. (go slow on me)

DanielRicany

Check your spark plug gap.

hooked073

did you hook a vacume gauge up like I reccomended?

hitmanpty

I dont have a vacuum tool. Dont know how to used

hitmanpty

Those are the old spark plug i have the correct ones for long time now

hitmanpty

I will try to get a vacum gauge to make more test.

hitmanpty

I will do another compression test again today. on the driver side. I will do the all 4 on dry first them I will do a wet. see if I get more accrued numbers


just finish the second compression test only at the driver side. where my problem is

number 1 = 135 psi, No. 3 140 psi, No. 5 145 psi, No. 7 149 psi


feel like Iam talking to my self here.

tombrammer

It would be better if you could do a leak down test. Do you know anybody with a leak down gauge? After you do the leak down test then you will know if the motor/ valves, rings are good and you can move on to fuel and spark.

hitmanpty

I did a leak down test on cylinder 1. With my home made leak down tedt tool.

I can hear very soft but very soft air on the pvc hole on too of the valve cover. At 25 psi of preasure.

No sound on intake .no Bubbles on radiator

Not sure if i preform this test right

hitmanpty

But i think my preasure is good for detonation

DanielRicany

You could be hearing it from the threads of the adapter in the spark plug hole

desertmike1

Good idea..


You can use a small piece of metal tube.. screw driver etc. and listen to the injectors, for a ticking noise. (normal)

Another test you can perform,, if you have access to the tool, is to shoot the exhaust manifold at each cylinder with an IR heat sensing gun. most heat and air condition technicians carry these

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Infrared_thermometer

tombrammer

What about in the exhaust, did you hear anything there? Did you home made tester have only one gauge or two? You have to have two to see the amount of leak down because it is normal to hear air at the valve cover fill hole. What you need to know is how much air is blowing past the rings and if it is excessive or not. Good luck.

hitmanpty

no noise from the tail pipe

powerpigz-51

I just use my finger for injector testing. You can feel them "tap".

envirotrans

A leak down test is a waste of time. his lowest is 135 and high is 149, that is within 10%.
all a leakdown test will tell you is were the air is going, by the rings, or valves and so forth
if 135 psi is not enough to fire, he will need to change the fuel to diesel.

jake corvette

Make very sure the plug wires are not crossed and are properly installed in the firing order sequence -1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. It's easy to get the sparkplug wires crossed - my thought is you have # 1 and # 5 crossed at the cap. Everyone who has worked on cars even for a very short time have crossed a few spark plug wires.

It takes but three things for an engine to operate - properly timed spark, correct fuel mixture and compression. You seemingly have all three but perhaps not a properly timed spark on #1 and #5 - again check the plug wires to be sure they are installed in the proper sequence.

If the plug wires are sequencially correct, then the next thing to do is pull the valve cover and see if the valve are moving. You might have a couple of flattened cam lobes.

Others have provided some very good methods to check for proper spark and fuel delivery - take their advice and just go through it one step at a time.

As per usual with these things, the problem is staring you right in the face - you will probably laugh or swear a little at yourself when you find it. LOL

Good luck - tell us what you find - keep us posted.