cylinder one and five not working
01-23-2014, 12:40 AM
#41
Instructor
Member Since: Apr 2013
Location: NW Arkansas - usually winter in FL
Posts: 144
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As noted by an earlier person - get the correct sparkplugs installed - the ones you are using are too long. What will happen is this: the combustion products - soot and other crud - will be deposited onto the threads of the sparkplug and after a very short time you will not be able to remove the sparkplug because of the crud on the threads. You will be able to break it loose but it will bind as you try to remove the sparkplug. Did that myself a few decades ago.
01-23-2014, 04:26 AM
#42
Race Director
As noted by an earlier person - get the correct sparkplugs installed - the ones you are using are too long. What will happen is this: the combustion products - soot and other crud - will be deposited onto the threads of the sparkplug and after a very short time you will not be able to remove the sparkplug because of the crud on the threads. You will be able to break it loose but it will bind as you try to remove the sparkplug. Did that myself a few decades ago.
See post #28.
01-23-2014, 08:01 AM
#43
Racer
Make very sure the plug wires are not crossed and are properly installed in the firing order sequence -1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. It's easy to get the sparkplug wires crossed - my thought is you have # 1 and # 5 crossed at the cap. Everyone who has worked on cars even for a very short time have crossed a few spark plug wires.
It takes but three things for an engine to operate - properly timed spark, correct fuel mixture and compression. You seemingly have all three but perhaps not a properly timed spark on #1 and #5 - again check the plug wires to be sure they are installed in the proper sequence.
If the plug wires are sequencially correct, then the next thing to do is pull the valve cover and see if the valve are moving. You might have a couple of flattened cam lobes.
Others have provided some very good methods to check for proper spark and fuel delivery - take their advice and just go through it one step at a time.
As per usual with these things, the problem is staring you right in the face - you will probably laugh or swear a little at yourself when you find it. LOL
Good luck - tell us what you find - keep us posted.
It takes but three things for an engine to operate - properly timed spark, correct fuel mixture and compression. You seemingly have all three but perhaps not a properly timed spark on #1 and #5 - again check the plug wires to be sure they are installed in the proper sequence.
If the plug wires are sequencially correct, then the next thing to do is pull the valve cover and see if the valve are moving. You might have a couple of flattened cam lobes.
Others have provided some very good methods to check for proper spark and fuel delivery - take their advice and just go through it one step at a time.
As per usual with these things, the problem is staring you right in the face - you will probably laugh or swear a little at yourself when you find it. LOL
Good luck - tell us what you find - keep us posted.
repeat: Please acknowledge that you have checked your plug wires for proper connection.
If you have a spare wire or two, substitute plug wires and see if the situation improves.
If the problem remains, check for valve motion at the rocker arm. An intake valve that is only opening a fraction of its intended lift due to a worn cam lobe will have a very weak power pulse.
Keep the feedback coming. The periodic silence is due to us waiting to hear that you have followed our suggestions. Check the wires and the cam and report back!
01-23-2014, 10:21 AM
#44
Drifting
Thread Starter
Make very sure the plug wires are not crossed and are properly installed in the firing order sequence -1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. It's easy to get the sparkplug wires crossed - my thought is you have # 1 and # 5 crossed at the cap. Everyone who has worked on cars even for a very short time have crossed a few spark plug wires.
It takes but three things for an engine to operate - properly timed spark, correct fuel mixture and compression. You seemingly have all three but perhaps not a properly timed spark on #1 and #5 - again check the plug wires to be sure they are installed in the proper sequence.
If the plug wires are sequencially correct, then the next thing to do is pull the valve cover and see if the valve are moving. You might have a couple of flattened cam lobes.
Others have provided some very good methods to check for proper spark and fuel delivery - take their advice and just go through it one step at a time.
As per usual with these things, the problem is staring you right in the face - you will probably laugh or swear a little at yourself when you find it. LOL
Good luck - tell us what you find - keep us posted.
It takes but three things for an engine to operate - properly timed spark, correct fuel mixture and compression. You seemingly have all three but perhaps not a properly timed spark on #1 and #5 - again check the plug wires to be sure they are installed in the proper sequence.
If the plug wires are sequencially correct, then the next thing to do is pull the valve cover and see if the valve are moving. You might have a couple of flattened cam lobes.
Others have provided some very good methods to check for proper spark and fuel delivery - take their advice and just go through it one step at a time.
As per usual with these things, the problem is staring you right in the face - you will probably laugh or swear a little at yourself when you find it. LOL
Good luck - tell us what you find - keep us posted.
firing order is ok. I checked so many times now I lost count.
I wish was only that.
I think I will remove the valve cover. and when I do I will take some videos on post them here.
01-23-2014, 10:24 AM
#45
Drifting
Thread Starter
repeat: Please acknowledge that you have checked your plug wires for proper connection.
If you have a spare wire or two, substitute plug wires and see if the situation improves.
If the problem remains, check for valve motion at the rocker arm. An intake valve that is only opening a fraction of its intended lift due to a worn cam lobe will have a very weak power pulse.
Keep the feedback coming. The periodic silence is due to us waiting to hear that you have followed our suggestions. Check the wires and the cam and report back!
01-23-2014, 08:40 PM
#46
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ok every one I got my self a vacuum tester tool. and did some testing.
I even got the video.
according to tool. I have worn valve guides. dont know if this will cause a dead cylinder.
the video for some reason upload with out a sound. but at first the car is just at idle. them just about the midle of the video I throttle sudenly opened and closed. to see the reaction.
also is important to mantion. off camera. I hit the throttle again up to 4000 rpm. I can see kind of light blue smoke coming out of the driver side exhaust pipe.
here is the video . what can you tell me by watching this video.
sorry for been so amatteur with the camera
I even got the video.
according to tool. I have worn valve guides. dont know if this will cause a dead cylinder.
the video for some reason upload with out a sound. but at first the car is just at idle. them just about the midle of the video I throttle sudenly opened and closed. to see the reaction.
also is important to mantion. off camera. I hit the throttle again up to 4000 rpm. I can see kind of light blue smoke coming out of the driver side exhaust pipe.
here is the video . what can you tell me by watching this video.
sorry for been so amatteur with the camera
01-23-2014, 10:44 PM
#49
Melting Slicks
personal opinion from what I can see you do not have a valve train problem. Also valve stem seals will not cause your problems. you do have some flucation that is not normal
01-23-2014, 10:56 PM
#50
Drifting
Thread Starter
01-23-2014, 10:59 PM
#51
Melting Slicks
my looks it almost apears as a miss. I would replace the plugs and wires on theses cyl. also look in the cap to make ssure everything is 100%. is this thing backfiring?
01-24-2014, 12:44 AM
#52
Melting Slicks
What is the altitude were you live: above sea level..
There's no question that the Nervous needle at Idle is being caused by a valve train issue such as worn guides, and leaking valves.
The lower then normal reading at idle could indicate worn rings, late ignition timing, Vacuum leak.. or you live in an higher attitude.
How many miles are on this engine?
There's no question that the Nervous needle at Idle is being caused by a valve train issue such as worn guides, and leaking valves.
The lower then normal reading at idle could indicate worn rings, late ignition timing, Vacuum leak.. or you live in an higher attitude.
How many miles are on this engine?
01-24-2014, 07:02 AM
#53
Drifting
Thread Starter
Panama is at sea level. About the miles. Dont remember tell you later. But i know is not much.
Regarding the below average reading. Is important to say my rpm at idle are a little low .like 600 rpm. Not sure is this will afect the reading.
Regarding the below average reading. Is important to say my rpm at idle are a little low .like 600 rpm. Not sure is this will afect the reading.
Last edited by hitmanpty; 01-24-2014 at 07:05 AM.
01-24-2014, 08:46 AM
#55
Melting Slicks
Good question! but, it is data. Consider what you know so far: two Cyl's with Slightly less compression, two that have not been tested, possibly two cyl's not firing properly, blue smoke, a nervous vacuum gauge, and a reading of app 17"hg at sea level..
01-24-2014, 09:20 AM
#56
Drifting
Thread Starter
yes that's about it. now I don't know what to make out of this.
01-24-2014, 10:51 AM
#57
Drifting
Thread Starter
Any repairs related to distributor? Verify pick up coil and shaft a both for V8 ie 8 points on both. If miss matched with 6 cyl parts it can start and scope pattern will be unique. PCM could cause it but would be very unusual, Do you have access to "sun scope" to observe ignition firing pattern? Be sure coil mounting screws in cap haven't breached bottom of cap were spark will jump to screw vs terminal for plug wire. Also ground strap or terminal is present. Sometimes screws are slightly too long or ground terminal doesn't get transferred.
01-24-2014, 11:07 AM
#58
Drifting
Thread Starter
ok Data recap......
1. injectors ok
2. voltage to injectors ok
3. spark ok
4.spark plug wires ok
5.spark plug ok
6.firing order ok
7.distributor cap new
8. distributor rotor new
9.pickup coil new
10. new pick up coil
11. leak down test. not conclusive. home made tool not to reliable
12. compression test cyl #1 & #2 130 psi the rest range between 140 to 150 psi
13 vacuum test telling me. valve issue maybe worn valve guides. also indicated late ingnition
14. light blue smoke coming out of the driver side exhaust
Are we looking at possible overhauling here ????????
1. injectors ok
2. voltage to injectors ok
3. spark ok
4.spark plug wires ok
5.spark plug ok
6.firing order ok
7.distributor cap new
8. distributor rotor new
9.pickup coil new
10. new pick up coil
11. leak down test. not conclusive. home made tool not to reliable
12. compression test cyl #1 & #2 130 psi the rest range between 140 to 150 psi
13 vacuum test telling me. valve issue maybe worn valve guides. also indicated late ingnition
14. light blue smoke coming out of the driver side exhaust
Are we looking at possible overhauling here ????????
01-24-2014, 11:28 AM
#59
Drifting
Thread Starter
found good sample of the blue smoke. this is exactly what the smoke out of my driver side pipe look like.
I know is not a vette sorry about that. but the focal point is the smoke.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
I know is not a vette sorry about that. but the focal point is the smoke.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
01-24-2014, 11:47 AM
#60
Le Mans Master
8 cylinder = 8 points on shaft and pick up. When the points pass each other sends signal to ignition module. I have seen 6 cylinder pick up with a 8 cylinder distributor shaft car ran, not well , scope pattern only showed 7 firing lines.