what's holding me back?
#161
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Not 100 ponies worth there isn't, and 2 cylinders worth of power it isn't.
And I wouldn't let Ed anywhere near my Lawnmower Engines if he thinks otherwise.
Drain the oil and drop the oil pan.
Drive the car for a couple of weeks, and see if you have any oil loss. Watch the back end of the car at the stop lights, and as you go up hill.
Did you time using a Vbox? Or did you just "one Mississippi two Mississippi..." ?
Like I said, I'm looking at your power and torque curves right now, and I can tell you straight away, that the car wouldn't feel any bit properly quick with as gradual as the increase is until peak HP and Torque.
You need to put it on a dyno, because the way this power curve looks? It's not a Kick You In The Crotch then shove you backwards kick in the pants monster.
And I wouldn't let Ed anywhere near my Lawnmower Engines if he thinks otherwise.
Drain the oil and drop the oil pan.
Drive the car for a couple of weeks, and see if you have any oil loss. Watch the back end of the car at the stop lights, and as you go up hill.
Did you time using a Vbox? Or did you just "one Mississippi two Mississippi..." ?
Like I said, I'm looking at your power and torque curves right now, and I can tell you straight away, that the car wouldn't feel any bit properly quick with as gradual as the increase is until peak HP and Torque.
You need to put it on a dyno, because the way this power curve looks? It's not a Kick You In The Crotch then shove you backwards kick in the pants monster.
#162
Melting Slicks
Keep in mind this isn't 100 percent accurate, given all of the possible variables. I use it mostly for part selection on my build ups.
Sorry the dyno graph is so small. Microsoft screen shots apparently don't like 2 monitor setups all that much. I'll crop the image later.
#163
Le Mans Master
Keep in mind this isn't 100 percent accurate, given all of the possible variables. I use it mostly for part selection on my build ups.
Sorry the dyno graph is so small. Microsoft screen shots apparently don't like 2 monitor setups all that much. I'll crop the image later.
#165
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I think you have a few things wrong in that program. I should make it clear that cam is flat tappet and not roller, if there is a setting in that program...
And i also have small tube headers, 1 5/8".
And the flow of my throttle body is 1200 cfm, not the flow of the motor. I think the flow of the motor is more around like 600 to 700...
And i also have small tube headers, 1 5/8".
And the flow of my throttle body is 1200 cfm, not the flow of the motor. I think the flow of the motor is more around like 600 to 700...
#166
Melting Slicks
Just for the sake of comparison for what a car that WILL throw you back HARD into your seat and pull like a mother
That's what I'm shooting for with my coming 400 LTR setup swap.
More realistically total intake flow will probably be more like 750. But that's alright. The torque was what I'm after for mountain driving and cruising.
That's what I'm shooting for with my coming 400 LTR setup swap.
More realistically total intake flow will probably be more like 750. But that's alright. The torque was what I'm after for mountain driving and cruising.
Last edited by MavsAK; 07-05-2014 at 06:42 PM.
#167
Melting Slicks
I think you have a few things wrong in that program. I should make it clear that cam is flat tappet and not roller, if there is a setting in that program...
And i also have small tube headers, 1 5/8".
And the flow of my throttle body is 1200 cfm, not the flow of the motor. I think the flow of the motor is more around like 600 to 700...
And i also have small tube headers, 1 5/8".
And the flow of my throttle body is 1200 cfm, not the flow of the motor. I think the flow of the motor is more around like 600 to 700...
I have it set for a solid but didn't put in your lash since I didn't see it earlier. (there's a setting for solid rollers, solid, hydrualic, hyd rollers, as well as OHC)
Last edited by MavsAK; 07-05-2014 at 06:47 PM.
#168
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
It's a hydraulic flat tappet. I don't have a lash number that I can give you but it's a 1/4 turn passed 0 lash.
#169
Melting Slicks
Barring getting your lash #, this is about the best we can get then as far as a figure for your car given the info we have.
We won't know for sure until you run a dyno. 425 isn't too shabby. As you can see though the car doesn't really come to life until after 3500 rpm.
Definitely need to do some dyno pulls to see where you're at. Check the compression and leak down again, and no matter what definitely pull the pan and start looking into the oil.
If you really are down around 300 crank, there's something major wrong in that engine, even if the tune is fairly off, I'd think it'd be sitting around 400.
We won't know for sure until you run a dyno. 425 isn't too shabby. As you can see though the car doesn't really come to life until after 3500 rpm.
Definitely need to do some dyno pulls to see where you're at. Check the compression and leak down again, and no matter what definitely pull the pan and start looking into the oil.
If you really are down around 300 crank, there's something major wrong in that engine, even if the tune is fairly off, I'd think it'd be sitting around 400.
Last edited by MavsAK; 07-05-2014 at 07:28 PM.
#170
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
I thought we were liberated of this ridiculous thread.
Listen to Mavs....no way you performed a leak down test correctly, and the car passed it...but you're "losing 100 hp to blow-by". Especially when you've never had it on a dyno, track and don't know WHAT you're making (or "losing").
LOL about your spark tester too. "Felt like a stun gun, so I know my spark is good"
Listen to Mavs....no way you performed a leak down test correctly, and the car passed it...but you're "losing 100 hp to blow-by". Especially when you've never had it on a dyno, track and don't know WHAT you're making (or "losing").
LOL about your spark tester too. "Felt like a stun gun, so I know my spark is good"
#171
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I thought we were liberated of this ridiculous thread.
Listen to Mavs....no way you performed a leak down test correctly, and the car passed it...but you're "losing 100 hp to blow-by". Especially when you've never had it on a dyno, track and don't know WHAT you're making (or "losing").
LOL about your spark tester too. "Felt like a stun gun, so I know my spark is good"
Listen to Mavs....no way you performed a leak down test correctly, and the car passed it...but you're "losing 100 hp to blow-by". Especially when you've never had it on a dyno, track and don't know WHAT you're making (or "losing").
LOL about your spark tester too. "Felt like a stun gun, so I know my spark is good"
1: 25%, 170 PSI
2: 20%, 170 PSI
3: 10%, 180 PSI
4: 10%, 190 PSI
5: 10%, 180 PSI
6: 20%, 180 PSI
7: 15%, 180 PSI
8: 15%, 180 PSI
#172
Melting Slicks
I thought we were liberated of this ridiculous thread.
Listen to Mavs....no way you performed a leak down test correctly, and the car passed it...but you're "losing 100 hp to blow-by". Especially when you've never had it on a dyno, track and don't know WHAT you're making (or "losing").
LOL about your spark tester too. "Felt like a stun gun, so I know my spark is good"
Listen to Mavs....no way you performed a leak down test correctly, and the car passed it...but you're "losing 100 hp to blow-by". Especially when you've never had it on a dyno, track and don't know WHAT you're making (or "losing").
LOL about your spark tester too. "Felt like a stun gun, so I know my spark is good"
I just can't envision a car losing 100 horses to blow by without finding a ton of gas in the oil, blowing oil out the tail pipes, out from the valvecovers, heads and rear mains. Particularly with this parts list going in, if it's tuned right. (I don't think it is)
Looking at the dynograph of my engine sim, I could easily see why he'd feel a C5 would be "as fast" or even faster, especially if he's used to the original LTRs in daily driving. Again assuming the tune is right at least.
If it's passed the compression& leak down test, and your valves are seating properly both then there's no reason why this engine shouldn't be a performer if the tune's there.
Last edited by MavsAK; 07-05-2014 at 07:59 PM.
#173
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
Posts: 81,242
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St. Jude Donor '05
Send your chip to TJ Wong (Wongs Performance think hes on the board somewhere) just to have him look it over if youre not sure. Guy is an amazing tuner and honest as the day is long
Ask him about the fuel pump too.
Ask him about the fuel pump too.
Last edited by cv67; 07-05-2014 at 08:41 PM.
#174
I thought we were liberated of this ridiculous thread.
Listen to Mavs....no way you performed a leak down test correctly, and the car passed it...but you're "losing 100 hp to blow-by". Especially when you've never had it on a dyno, track and don't know WHAT you're making (or "losing").
LOL about your spark tester too. "Felt like a stun gun, so I know my spark is good"
Listen to Mavs....no way you performed a leak down test correctly, and the car passed it...but you're "losing 100 hp to blow-by". Especially when you've never had it on a dyno, track and don't know WHAT you're making (or "losing").
LOL about your spark tester too. "Felt like a stun gun, so I know my spark is good"
#175
Melting Slicks
How do you know you are down 100 hp? And please don't say it feels like it.
I have dealt with Ed Wright. He did the initial tune for my 396 Super Ram. Basically, the first tune was so rich it washed the cylinders. The second was able to run but the timing was too advanced. I ended up finishing the tune myself. I'm not trying to knock Ed, but a mail order tune is not your answer. Get that thing on a dyno! If you can't find anyone to tune an 85, then upgrade your ECM to a 165 so you can find someone. You are chasing your tail until you do.
I have dealt with Ed Wright. He did the initial tune for my 396 Super Ram. Basically, the first tune was so rich it washed the cylinders. The second was able to run but the timing was too advanced. I ended up finishing the tune myself. I'm not trying to knock Ed, but a mail order tune is not your answer. Get that thing on a dyno! If you can't find anyone to tune an 85, then upgrade your ECM to a 165 so you can find someone. You are chasing your tail until you do.
#176
Race Director
There was just a local dyno day here that I went to and there should be some by you. 20 bucks for a few pulls is cheap! Just go!
#177
#178
hell, If daniel will hit a dyne within two weeks and will include video and dyno sheet from that run, I pay him 10 bucks via paypal. Who's with me? Few more guys and he will get his dyno money back and we get some entertainment
#179
I have a tenner----that I will never have to send via my paypal account.
#180
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
It's not going to happen in 2 weeks. I still have to rebuild my over drive unit before I can do anything with the car. I would have had the parts yesterday but I couldn't because the parts distributor was closed for 4th of july. So I have to wait till Monday to see if they have it and then see if I have enough money for it. Then my battery has to be changed because it died out on me while I was getting gas and I had to get jumped by a friend. Shortly after was when I blew the shift lever in the trans. After that I have to get an AC compressor for the car because mine seized up. Then I have to test to see if my fuel pump is not keeping up at high RPMs, when I change that I have to pay for 3 more tunes which will focus on normal driving aspects of the tune, as well as WOT. Then, if nothing else breaks I can go to the dyno.