1984Z51auto

I have the V2V braces on a '96 convertible and have not noticed a steering wheel shake. I believe that may be due to having the softer standard suspension springs rather than the higher rate optional Z51 or "handling package" springs some cars came with. My '84 Z51 would shake quite a bit with the top out, never tried a bar top on it to see if that would help. There are front end braces that tie the front of the frame together. I had one for the '84 but didn't get it installed before I got a too good to say no deal on my current ride.

What springs do those with "shake" have?

pologreen1

Steering wheel shake:

-bad steering column
-bad alignment
-bad tires
-bad ball joints
-bad balancing
-bad wheel bearings

If people are referring to cowl shake that is different.

carguy604

I did the old RD Racing Camber Brace (the precursor to the Vansteel Camber Brace, I think) combined with the RD Racing X-Brace (similar to the convertible's X-Brace) under the car and it's made a huge difference in the torsional stiffness of my car. It's not yet 100% to where I want it to be but, as cool as it looks, I don't want to hack into the rear floors in order to add a welded roll bar to the frame. I'm probably 75% better as is but I'm still thinking of adding a hard bar behind the seats attached to the halo. This will be good enough for the cruising that I do and the half dozen times a year that I go auto-crossing. What I've noticed is that many of the squeaks and groans that the car used to display are gone, the cowl shake is greatly diminished, and my steering wheel doesn't squirm in the corners like it used to. I don't know if it's improved my times but it certainly makes the car a lot more fun to drive and it inspires a lot of confidence. Interestingly enough, if I had to choose just one of these three improvements, I'd probably go with the camber bar. I think it made the greatest SOTP difference. That having been said, I seem to recall that it was a b!tch to get it neatly nestled into the car before bolting it in. I seem to recall a few four-letter expletives being used as well as a couple of band-aids but the results were worth it and, best of all, once it's installed it's damn near invisible! Don't even try making one; there's a bend and a twist in the middle that you'll probably not be able to reproduce at home. Pay the man and get it done right. This works for me.

Tom400CFI

I have an RD camber brace and it helps with steering wheel shudder (the feed back of wheel oscillations though the steering wheel) somewhat. With it on, I think, "eh"....so i've taken it off. Once it's off, I think, "Damn...I need to put that thing back on!" So it helps but it's certainly no silver bullet, that is for sure.

It does nothing to improve "cowl" shake/shudder, or the lateral movement of the dash, column, and windshield.

tlong

I've been using the AFSB in place of the targa for years. It is as strong as the roof, approved for motoX , much lighter and looks great. The front to back and tortional flex are gone completely. GM fasteners. Good place to mount a GoPro.

It may be stronger than the blue plexi top- less creaks for sure. I know Jason well at Vette2Vette and what a class guy. I'm sure his product is good. I only know that the AFSB is easy to use and eliminates the problem completely. I found a Carbrella top for it on ebay and use it in the garage. Yeah it's another top to screw with but gives it the t-top it started with on the design table

TorchTarga94

Pologreen - No steering wheel shudder/shake at all when the top is in place. Only when it is off. Doubt it's any of those issues.

With regards to the VanSteel camber brace. I had one on my car for about 3 or 4 months. I would say it helped on rough roads but didn't notice enough of an improvement to put it back on after I replaced the opti and water pump (This was back in fall of 13'). I sold it to a forum member on here and he seems to be happy with it. The clearance between the camber brace and the water pump/coolant temp sensor was very close. Too close for comfort. Very well made though!

Rexracer77

Hey, where do you buy the AFSB targa truss. I have been thinking of building one for auto-cross/track days as I have to have the top off for helmet clearance. But looking I cant find a vendor that sells them these days.

grandspt

Pologreen1, it is cowl shake but steering vibration was brought up at the beginning post which is why I continued calling it that (and not really an inaccurate description as the wheel /column does vibrate and shake). Only happens when the roof panel is out!
This eliminates possible problems with alignment, tires etc.

grandspt

[QUOTE=carguy604;1591573020]
I did the old RD Racing Camber Brace (the precursor to the Vansteel Camber Brace, I think) combined with the RD Racing X-Brace (similar to the convertible's X-Brace) under the car and it's made a huge difference in the torsional stiffness of my car. It's not yet 100% to where I want it to be but, as cool as it looks, I don't want to hack into the rear floors in order to add a welded roll bar to the frame. I'm probably 75% better as is but I'm still thinking of adding a hard bar behind the seats attached to the halo. This will be good enough for the cruising that I do and the half dozen times a year that I go auto-crossing. What I've noticed is that many of the squeaks and groans that the car used to display are gone, the cowl shake is greatly diminished, and my steering wheel doesn't squirm in the corners like it used to. I don't know if it's improved my times but it certainly makes the car a lot more fun to drive and it inspires a lot of confidence. Interestingly enough, if I had to choose just one of these three improvements, I'd probably go with the camber bar. I think it made the greatest SOTP difference. That having been said, I seem to recall that it was a b!tch to get it neatly nestled into the car before bolting it in. I seem to recall a few four-letter expletives being used as well as a couple of band-aids but the results were worth it and, best of all, once it's installed it's damn near invisible! Don't even try making one; there's a bend and a twist in the middle that you'll probably not be able to reproduce at home. Pay the man and get it done right. This works for me.

Since you have added both types of stiffening devices and you still have not completely eliminated the cowl shake I really believe that this is good as it gets. Thank you for your honest evaluation The next steps would involve welding in a cage and stitch welding the frame pieces (involves too much fiberglass removal for me).

tlong

Tom Gasper used to make them. I think that's stopped. Used ones are rare and expensive but could be found on WTB C4 parts. I'll own mine as long as I have a C4.

carguy604

[QUOTE=grandspt;1591578430]Yeah, I'm in agreement; the next step would be a welded-in cage and stitch welding the frame. Too much work and too much hacking into my pristine body. I like the fact that, as it is, if I want to go back to stock, all I have to do is start unbolting stuff. Thanks for the kind words.

DrDyno

So... I was out in my '96 today with the top removed. It was beautiful here on Florida's Sun Coast... 75° and not a cloud in the sky. Although I have some minimal cowl shake across ruts and RR tracks, it's nothing significant and my steering wheel doesn't exhibit any untoward shaking. Prior to the V2V braces, the car was downright embarrassing over ruts and RR tracks!

Originally I had my V2V braces settled on 4.5 threads showing. I then went to the "torque" method and, although I have them currently adjusted to only 15 Foot Pounds, the left side is at three threads showing and the right is down to a bit more than two threads showing. I know at least one Forum member who has his adjusted to 70 Foot Pounds and I may increase mine at some point just to see what effect it has. However, I'm perfectly content where I'm at.

(By the way, my car has the Full Time Dampening suspension option which I leave on the middle setting, "Sport.")