Change Bearings by Dropping Pan?
08-06-2014, 06:30 PM
#21
Drifting
Thread Starter
Replacing the bearings in car is really not hard. I had a Jeep w/a 304 that had a spun bearing...crank was beat. It would run for about 3 days on new bearings then start knocking again. I could drain oil. drop pan, replace beings (just the offending 3), pan back on fill w/oil and have it running again in 20 minutes. Ha ha ha...kind of.
SInce you have no knocking, I think your crank can continue for as long as you indicated above...I'd replace all the bearing shells, and run thicker oils as Five7kid recommended to do.
SInce you have no knocking, I think your crank can continue for as long as you indicated above...I'd replace all the bearing shells, and run thicker oils as Five7kid recommended to do.
08-06-2014, 06:34 PM
#24
Instructor
Pay close attention to the position and orientation or the rod and main caps if you remove them. They have to go back in the same place in the right direction. You can use a center punch to make reference marks if needed. Sometimes the main caps are numbered and will have an arrow pointing to the front of the engine. Don't count on it being there!
And as someone else posted, verify the bearings are indeed standard and not oversized. I have seen .010 over stuff from the factory, rare but it does happen.
The back side of the bearing shell will be marked .010,.020,or.030 if oversized or possibly marked STD for standard. Most factory bearings that are standard size don't have any identifying marks and should be standard.
And as someone else posted, verify the bearings are indeed standard and not oversized. I have seen .010 over stuff from the factory, rare but it does happen.
The back side of the bearing shell will be marked .010,.020,or.030 if oversized or possibly marked STD for standard. Most factory bearings that are standard size don't have any identifying marks and should be standard.
08-06-2014, 06:41 PM
#25
Drifting
Thread Starter
Pay close attention to the position and orientation or the rod and main caps if you remove them. They have to go back in the same place in the right direction. You can use a center punch to make reference marks if needed. Sometimes the main caps are numbered and will have an arrow pointing to the front of the engine. Don't count on it being there!
And as someone else posted, verify the bearings are indeed standard and not oversized. I have seen .010 over stuff from the factory, rare but it does happen.
The back side of the bearing shell will be marked .010,.020,or.030 if oversized or possibly marked STD for standard. Most factory bearings that are standard size don't have any identifying marks and should be standard.
And as someone else posted, verify the bearings are indeed standard and not oversized. I have seen .010 over stuff from the factory, rare but it does happen.
The back side of the bearing shell will be marked .010,.020,or.030 if oversized or possibly marked STD for standard. Most factory bearings that are standard size don't have any identifying marks and should be standard.
What would the purpose of removing those caps? Are there bearings under them? Sorry, like I said, this is my first car. The purpose of this project is to learn, meaning right now I know little.
As a side note, where can I get plastigage? Do I have to buy it online?
Last edited by C4ProjectCar; 08-06-2014 at 06:43 PM.
08-06-2014, 07:27 PM
#27
Instructor
Member Since: Apr 2013
Location: NW Arkansas - usually winter in FL
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is what i would do - others will have different opinions.
Worn bearings do not always mean the crank is shot - sometimes yes but not always.
Like others have indicated, just roll in a set of replacement bearing inserts along with a high volume oil pump. The bearings usually have the size either stamped or inked on the back side - be sure and use the same size bearings. Example: .010 means the bearing fits a .010 undersize journal - .020 indiates a .020 undersize jounal -ect.
Rod bearing are simple to change - mains are a little more difficult but mains are still very easy to roll out - just make sure you get a roll-out pin set fron your local auto parts store. Should be only a couple of bucks - makes the job a lot easier.
Especially agree with what "leesvette" has to say about this - think he is spot on.
Jake -
Worn bearings do not always mean the crank is shot - sometimes yes but not always.
Like others have indicated, just roll in a set of replacement bearing inserts along with a high volume oil pump. The bearings usually have the size either stamped or inked on the back side - be sure and use the same size bearings. Example: .010 means the bearing fits a .010 undersize journal - .020 indiates a .020 undersize jounal -ect.
Rod bearing are simple to change - mains are a little more difficult but mains are still very easy to roll out - just make sure you get a roll-out pin set fron your local auto parts store. Should be only a couple of bucks - makes the job a lot easier.
Especially agree with what "leesvette" has to say about this - think he is spot on.
Jake -
Last edited by jake corvette; 08-06-2014 at 07:29 PM.
08-06-2014, 07:31 PM
#28
Drifting
Thread Starter
This is what i would do - others will have different opinions.
Worn bearings do not always mean the crank is shot - sometimes yes but not always.
Like others have indicated, just roll in a set of replacement bearing inserts along with a high volume oil pump. The bearings usually have the size either stamped or inked on the back side - be sure and use the same size bearings. Example: .010 means the bearing fits a .010 undersize journal - .020 indiates a .020 undersize jounal -ect.
Rod bearing are simple to change - mains are a little more difficult but mains are still very easy to roll out - just make sure you get a roll-out pin set fron your local auto parts store. Should be only a couple of bucks - makes the job a lot easier.
Especially agree with what "leesvette" has to say about this - think he is spot on.
Jake -
Worn bearings do not always mean the crank is shot - sometimes yes but not always.
Like others have indicated, just roll in a set of replacement bearing inserts along with a high volume oil pump. The bearings usually have the size either stamped or inked on the back side - be sure and use the same size bearings. Example: .010 means the bearing fits a .010 undersize journal - .020 indiates a .020 undersize jounal -ect.
Rod bearing are simple to change - mains are a little more difficult but mains are still very easy to roll out - just make sure you get a roll-out pin set fron your local auto parts store. Should be only a couple of bucks - makes the job a lot easier.
Especially agree with what "leesvette" has to say about this - think he is spot on.
Jake -
So it sounds like I can't get away with just new bearings and heavier oil - I have to do the high volume pump too?
08-06-2014, 08:06 PM
#29
Instructor
Member Since: Apr 2013
Location: NW Arkansas - usually winter in FL
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
c4projectcar -
Just me but I would install a high volume oil pump. They are all over ebay and rockauto as well. Inexpensive too.
Obviously, when you remove a bearing and find the crankshaft journal all rough, scored and burned, then it is time for a major overhaul. But, think you are not going to find that.
Crankshaft bearings usually do not fail acutely but rather they wear chronically - like over time. One of the first signs of excessive bearing clearance is a "rattle" at first engine start after setting overnight or so - until oil pressure gets there to cushion things a little.
Just me but I would install a high volume oil pump. They are all over ebay and rockauto as well. Inexpensive too.
Obviously, when you remove a bearing and find the crankshaft journal all rough, scored and burned, then it is time for a major overhaul. But, think you are not going to find that.
Crankshaft bearings usually do not fail acutely but rather they wear chronically - like over time. One of the first signs of excessive bearing clearance is a "rattle" at first engine start after setting overnight or so - until oil pressure gets there to cushion things a little.
08-06-2014, 08:10 PM
#30
Drifting
Thread Starter
c4projectcar -
Just me but I would install a high volume oil pump. They are all over ebay and rockauto as well. Inexpensive too.
Obviously, when you remove a bearing and find the crankshaft journal all rough, scored and burned, then it is time for a major overhaul. But, think you are not going to find that.
Crankshaft bearings usually do not fail acutely but rather they wear chronically - like over time. One of the first signs of excessive bearing clearance is a "rattle" at first engine start after setting overnight or so - until oil pressure gets there to cushion things a little.
Just me but I would install a high volume oil pump. They are all over ebay and rockauto as well. Inexpensive too.
Obviously, when you remove a bearing and find the crankshaft journal all rough, scored and burned, then it is time for a major overhaul. But, think you are not going to find that.
Crankshaft bearings usually do not fail acutely but rather they wear chronically - like over time. One of the first signs of excessive bearing clearance is a "rattle" at first engine start after setting overnight or so - until oil pressure gets there to cushion things a little.
If I replace the bearings and add a high-volume pump, should I still go with heavier oil?
08-06-2014, 08:54 PM
#31
Instructor
Member Since: Apr 2013
Location: NW Arkansas - usually winter in FL
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, think I'd do as cudamax says - use Castrol 20W50. Have used it for many years and found it to be good as any. It's available at Wally's, is inexpensive, undisputed quality and will do a superb job. As others have said, thicker oil does take a little while (slightly) longer to reach the bearings but remember, 20W50 is still 20 weight oil when cold so it will travel through the engine in plenty of time. When it's all said and done, you will be ok with a 10W40 oil too- - but do use the high volume pump.
Synthetics – yeah, ok if you want to. Synthetics are great products but the latest dino oils are pretty good too – they rank right up there. I usually run dino stuff and have never had a problem – used the money saved to buy beer instead – LOL!
Think you will be fine with this 20W50 choice during the summer but the winter will be quite another story - in colder temps I'd run 10W40 - - or even 5W40 if one can find it. Still appreciate the heavier oil at operating temps though.
I guess we’re not supposed to drive our Corvette in the cold winter snow anyway - - LOL!
Anyway just my thoughts – be advised that when it comes to oil, there will be many more opinions for sure -
Get back and tell what you find -
Jake -
Synthetics – yeah, ok if you want to. Synthetics are great products but the latest dino oils are pretty good too – they rank right up there. I usually run dino stuff and have never had a problem – used the money saved to buy beer instead – LOL!
Think you will be fine with this 20W50 choice during the summer but the winter will be quite another story - in colder temps I'd run 10W40 - - or even 5W40 if one can find it. Still appreciate the heavier oil at operating temps though.
I guess we’re not supposed to drive our Corvette in the cold winter snow anyway - - LOL!
Anyway just my thoughts – be advised that when it comes to oil, there will be many more opinions for sure -
Get back and tell what you find -
Jake -
08-06-2014, 09:11 PM
#32
Instructor
Member Since: Apr 2013
Location: NW Arkansas - usually winter in FL
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One other thing - -replace the bearing inserts one at a time - remove a rod cap, replace the bearing and then put the cap back on and torque it down. Same with the mains. Not wise to take everything all apart all at once.
Like others have said, be positive to orient the caps correctly. Install them in the same direction as they were before removal.
If you forget, every bearing cap I've ever seen - be it rods or mains - gets installed with the bearing location tabs/tangs on the same side - right next to each other. But I've not seen everything either.
Like others have said, be positive to orient the caps correctly. Install them in the same direction as they were before removal.
If you forget, every bearing cap I've ever seen - be it rods or mains - gets installed with the bearing location tabs/tangs on the same side - right next to each other. But I've not seen everything either.
08-06-2014, 09:17 PM
#33
Drifting
Thread Starter
Yeah, think I'd do as cudamax says - use Castrol 20W50. Have used it for many years and found it to be good as any. It's available at Wally's, is inexpensive, undisputed quality and will do a superb job. As others have said, thicker oil does take a little while (slightly) longer to reach the bearings but remember, 20W50 is still 20 weight oil when cold so it will travel through the engine in plenty of time. When it's all said and done, you will be ok with a 10W40 oil too- - but do use the high volume pump.
Synthetics – yeah, ok if you want to. Synthetics are great products but the latest dino oils are pretty good too – they rank right up there. I usually run dino stuff and have never had a problem – used the money saved to buy beer instead – LOL!
Think you will be fine with this 20W50 choice during the summer but the winter will be quite another story - in colder temps I'd run 10W40 - - or even 5W40 if one can find it. Still appreciate the heavier oil at operating temps though.
I guess we’re not supposed to drive our Corvette in the cold winter snow anyway - - LOL!
Anyway just my thoughts – be advised that when it comes to oil, there will be many more opinions for sure -
Get back and tell what you find -
Jake -
Synthetics – yeah, ok if you want to. Synthetics are great products but the latest dino oils are pretty good too – they rank right up there. I usually run dino stuff and have never had a problem – used the money saved to buy beer instead – LOL!
Think you will be fine with this 20W50 choice during the summer but the winter will be quite another story - in colder temps I'd run 10W40 - - or even 5W40 if one can find it. Still appreciate the heavier oil at operating temps though.
I guess we’re not supposed to drive our Corvette in the cold winter snow anyway - - LOL!
Anyway just my thoughts – be advised that when it comes to oil, there will be many more opinions for sure -
Get back and tell what you find -
Jake -
I'm going to stick with synthetic at least for the time being because I got a deal on some at O'Reilly's for less than that Castrol is at Wal-Mart.
08-06-2014, 09:19 PM
#34
Drifting
Thread Starter
One other thing - -replace the bearing inserts one at a time - remove a rod cap, replace the bearing and then put the cap back on and torque it down. Same with the mains. Not wise to take everything all apart all at once.
Like others have said, be positive to orient the caps correctly. Install them in the same direction as they were before removal.
If you forget, every bearing cap I've ever seen - be it rods or mains - gets installed with the bearing location tabs/tangs on the same side - right next to each other. But I've not seen everything either.
Like others have said, be positive to orient the caps correctly. Install them in the same direction as they were before removal.
If you forget, every bearing cap I've ever seen - be it rods or mains - gets installed with the bearing location tabs/tangs on the same side - right next to each other. But I've not seen everything either.
Thanks for all the advice! I'll let you know what I find when I get the pan off (hopefully tonight).
08-06-2014, 11:19 PM
#37
Drifting
Thread Starter
I'm encountering a few problems taking off the oil pan, and my dad isn't home to help yet.
First off, I can't get the hoses off of the oil cooler. Coolant leaks out and I can twist the hoses, but I can't pull them off without pulling excessively hard. I'm trying to disconnect the hoses on the end that connects to (one the first hose) the metal line going across the oil pan and (on the second) the bottom of the block.
Second, I'm not sure how to go about taking off the front crossmember braces. The FSM says just to take them off, but as I started to undo a bolt I noticed they were under some tension. Do I just go ahead and unbolt them, or is there a more lengthy procedure? I have it on two jack stands on the pinch weld on the frame on each side by the tires, then I have a floor jack on the frame just ahead of the pan. The weight is fairly evenly distributed between the three. Is there something with the way it's jacked causing this tension?
If my dad gets home and is able to help me, I'll let you know. Otherwise, assume I'm still stumped.
EDIT:
I'll be ordering my parts soon, and I want to make sure I get everything I'll need. How's this sound?
Bearings - http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-CHEVY-35...-/350596477232
High volume oil pump - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/me...view/year/1990
Oil pan gasket - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...make/chevrolet
Do I need to replace the oil gasket? I just assumed I would.
First off, I can't get the hoses off of the oil cooler. Coolant leaks out and I can twist the hoses, but I can't pull them off without pulling excessively hard. I'm trying to disconnect the hoses on the end that connects to (one the first hose) the metal line going across the oil pan and (on the second) the bottom of the block.
Second, I'm not sure how to go about taking off the front crossmember braces. The FSM says just to take them off, but as I started to undo a bolt I noticed they were under some tension. Do I just go ahead and unbolt them, or is there a more lengthy procedure? I have it on two jack stands on the pinch weld on the frame on each side by the tires, then I have a floor jack on the frame just ahead of the pan. The weight is fairly evenly distributed between the three. Is there something with the way it's jacked causing this tension?
If my dad gets home and is able to help me, I'll let you know. Otherwise, assume I'm still stumped.
EDIT:
I'll be ordering my parts soon, and I want to make sure I get everything I'll need. How's this sound?
Bearings - http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-CHEVY-35...-/350596477232
High volume oil pump - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/me...view/year/1990
Oil pan gasket - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...make/chevrolet
Do I need to replace the oil gasket? I just assumed I would.
Last edited by C4ProjectCar; 08-07-2014 at 12:51 AM.
08-07-2014, 07:24 AM
#38
Burning Brakes
I just disconnect the motor mounts and jack the engine up. I've never had to take out the frame rails to pull an oil pan on a corvette. might have to turn the crank a little to clear the counterweights but it should be easy.
I cant remember about the oil cooler lines. You can always do like chevy did and remove the oil cooler. lines and run synthetic oil. That's what the newer vettes had (I think). Someone else should know about how to get them off.
I cant remember about the oil cooler lines. You can always do like chevy did and remove the oil cooler. lines and run synthetic oil. That's what the newer vettes had (I think). Someone else should know about how to get them off.
Last edited by cadmaniac; 08-07-2014 at 07:25 AM. Reason: spelling
08-07-2014, 01:57 PM
#39
Racer
08-07-2014, 02:43 PM
#40
Drifting
Thread Starter
I just disconnect the motor mounts and jack the engine up. I've never had to take out the frame rails to pull an oil pan on a corvette. might have to turn the crank a little to clear the counterweights but it should be easy.
I cant remember about the oil cooler lines. You can always do like chevy did and remove the oil cooler. lines and run synthetic oil. That's what the newer vettes had (I think). Someone else should know about how to get them off.
I cant remember about the oil cooler lines. You can always do like chevy did and remove the oil cooler. lines and run synthetic oil. That's what the newer vettes had (I think). Someone else should know about how to get them off.
Although your way sounds a lot easier. If I have to drop the pan again I'll probably do it that way.
I'm already running synthetic oil, but from what I heard the oil cooler helps the oil warm up faster too. Right now the plan is to keep it on.
Thanks for the help!