pushrod-v8

Where is the blower motor fuse located under the hood?

Can somebody please post a picture if possible?

Thanks!

WVZR-1

If this is your '90 ZR-1/C68 it is right next to the ESC module that's bolted to the blower case. You should have no issues. FSM 8A201-4 #12.

If it's a C60 car you won't find one.

pushrod-v8

It's a '92 z with electronic climate control. Thanks I will check there.

WVZR-1

Same general vicinity.

Cliff Harris

The blower motor does not have a fuse. It does have a fusible link in the red wire that attaches to the starter solenoid.

Here's your requested pic:



The fusible link is the red wire between the terminal on the starter solenoid and the black plastic cylinder that protects the splice to the regular wire that goes up to the evaporator housing connector.

WVZR-1

The fusible link only supplies power to the Blower Control Module on C68 cars. The Under-hood Fuse controls the input circuit to the AC panel I believe and one of the diagnostic checks for a blower runs constantly with AC control "off" or runs constantly when key-off and "key in pocket". The OP didn't mention the problem with the system and only asked for a fuse location and the AC under-hood fuse is in the location I mentioned. Your '86 should have similar if it's a C68 car.

pushrod-v8

The blower motor does not operate at all. It use to then stopped working.

This is my 92 ZR-1. The starter is under the plenum.

The only thing I found was this and no fuse or anything.



I really want to get this fixed while I have some free time.

Thanks everyone for your help.

WVZR-1

Have you put 12V direct to the blower motor? Use a jumper and put 12V direct to blower. Do you have a FSM? The diagnostics for no blower at all are pretty cut and dried. Can't tell what you have in your hand but the fuse holder is similar in size and you're looking for two purple wires I believe.

pushrod-v8

I only have the LT-5 supplemental manual. I just ordered the 92 manual off e-bay. Should be here soon.

Cliff Harris

Maybe you should be asking this question in the ZR-1 section...

That module in your picture is located where my ESC (Electronic Spark Control) module is mounted. That's the knock sensor interface to the ECM.

I would think you still have something that looks vaguely like this on the top of the evaporator housing:



The red wire is where the power comes in to the blower control module (C68 systems) or the resistor module (C60 systems).

WVZR-1

Very basic trouble shooting I'd think very simple. Check for 12V at the Blower Control Module (red wire) and like I mentioned a couple posts previously run a 12V jumper directly to the blower motor. Blower runs with jumper means motor is fine. 12V at the red wire at the BCM means the fusible link is good.


If there's a part # on the piece in your snapshot it could be 10177912 and that is the TPS Module and there would be one of them in the vicinity also. It would have a 10 pin connector with 2 empty I believe. That module would be mounted to the side of the blower case similar to the ESC module for other years.

Post the results of those two checks.

pushrod-v8

Will check for voltage at the blower control module. I just checked the fuse (it is located under the coolant tank) and it is fine.

cudamax

You have checked for 12 volts at the Blower plug. Right?

cudamax

On the passenger side of the car is the fuse panel. Open the passenger door and look at the end of the dash you will see the panel door. Take the door off and look on it's backside were you find a fuse chart. On that chart it tells what each fuse is for along with it's location and amp size.

On my 93 it lists a 10 Amp fuse for the A/C Compressor Clutch:Heater and A/C Control Head; Heater and A/C Programmer. There is also a 5 amp fuse for the A/C Programmer.

Under the hood are two seperate fuse blocks one has the A/C Blower fuse in postion 4 it is a 30 amp fuse. The other fuse block has a power accessary fuse that includes the Power Lock, Hatch, Cigar, Power Seats, A/C Programmer. If any of those five things are working then that fuse is not your problem.

I think this is the information you were looking for.

pushrod-v8

I have the following readings from my multimeter.



This is connected to the purple (positive) connector and the black ground. Yes its reading .940 volts. That does not look good to me!

C68 module on and no variation in voltage from 1 to 10.

The book says to check for a open or short to ground.

Where is the ground for this on the frame?

pushrod-v8

I have 11.5 volts at this wire.

WVZR-1

Just take a 12V from the battery directly to the blower motor for starters and check the blower motor. That's the first thing I mentioned a few posts ago. The rest of the trouble shooting is worthless if the blower isn't any good.

If you wanted you could remove the connector from the blower module and use that as your jumper if you don't have a jumper that will go from the battery. I wouldn't jump it without disconnecting it as the BCM is "solid state", I don't know that it would do any harm but why try. It's a $140 or so part. If the blower motor works with 12V then now that you've the correct FSM it's time to do the trouble shooting. I haven't looked at the FSM for blower control in quite some time but I might.

pushrod-v8

I ran 12volts directly to the blower motor and it came on.

I unplugged the two wire harnesses from top of the AC box and got my source from there.

And when I plug everything back up the head unit will now control the blower motow properly.

Only thing I noticed if I wiggle the wire with the 12v in top if the AC system(shown in the picture above) it will cut in and out and make a growling kind of noise.

Looks like a short or loose wire. As of now its working between 1 to 10 and everything is nice n snug.

Will look at it again after drivinv around for awile.

Time to take the Z to L.A. Fitness!

Thanks everyone!!!

pushrod-v8

This is the wire harness, in particular the red wire that I am referring to.

WVZR-1

Your fix looks pretty straight forward then. I'd just re-pin the connector unless there's signs of being burnt. That's a pretty easy connector to re-pin. I'll give you terminal ID's if you need them. A fix will be the same day. Terminal will be a local purchase.