C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 04:42 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by s carter
go to a search browser, put in gm hei cap photos look at the pictures. There is a steel piece about 4" long it goes from the plug area on top and is secured under the coil. WITH OUT IT IM PRETTY SURE NO BOOM or at least a weak spark
Ohh are you talking about the tab that one of the screws goes in? I assumed that was a ground. I definitely put that back correctly whatever it does. Dont forget, This car was running with the new cap.

Last edited by octaneforce; Sep 9, 2014 at 04:46 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 04:45 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by tunedport85inject
You have fuel pressure, you have a good spark,injectors are pulsing,timing is good, no way this car should't fire up... Damn do you put that dizzy the right way in? Sure is the base timing good? Wires ? Mismatched?once i was stranded by my 85,i had 12 v at dizzy but no spark it was the ignition module that was gone un 1k miles... Cheap quality dynaspark from Ecklers
Is it even possible to put the dizzy in wrong? Lol im sure i installed it correctly. I honestly think my timing chain skipped a tooth and its just enough to make this thing do nothing but pop through the intake. Ive always had a noise from the front of the motor
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 04:53 PM
  #43  
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As you described you put it in the right way,sometimes some guys put it back 180 degrees wrong... it's a common mistake with a dizzy,do you try to play with advance while cranking?may be your balancer slipped and you trying to set timing with a mark all the way out? since your bad noise from the front...seems like this bad boy is out of timing
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 05:19 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by tunedport85inject
As you described you put it in the right way,sometimes some guys put it back 180 degrees wrong... it's a common mistake with a dizzy,do you try to play with advance while cranking?may be your balancer slipped and you trying to set timing with a mark all the way out? since your bad noise from the front...seems like this bad boy is out of timing
I twisted the dizzy around while cranking and the pops/backfires just changed a little. No evidence of the motor trying to start. Is it possible to even remove the timing cover with the engine still in the car? That balancer looks like a biotch to get off.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 05:26 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by octaneforce
Ohh are you talking about the tab that one of the screws goes in? I assumed that was a ground. I definitely put that back correctly whatever it does. Dont forget, This car was running with the new cap.
just to clear this is the piece I speaking of, it was running with new cap? unless I missed the posting I thought this car has not run since it back fired and stopped, and since then its gotten a 1 new cap & coil(no start) new complete distributor (no start) and yes it is like hitting lotto but could ACCEL have left it out? I have seen many people leave things in old cap.



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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 05:32 PM
  #46  
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Cap, rotor, coil, wires, plugs, pcv valve, air filter, were all done about a week BEFORE the car stopped. Only thing ive changed since it stopped running is the distributor.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by octaneforce
I twisted the dizzy around while cranking and the pops/backfires just changed a little. No evidence of the motor trying to start. Is it possible to even remove the timing cover with the engine still in the car? That balancer looks like a biotch to get off.

yes you will use a few extra words but if you have a good puller not to fat and you bolt the puller tight against the balancer use a very short driver bolt it will come,
but as soon as the balancer gets loose remove the puller (you will need the space) and wiggle the balancer out.

if you do not have a balancer installer you will need one
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by s carter
yes you will use a few extra words but if you have a good puller not to fat and you bolt the puller tight against the balancer use a very short driver bolt it will come,
but as soon as the balancer gets loose remove the puller (you will need the space) and wiggle the balancer out.

if you do not have a balancer installer you will need one
Ive been renting **** like crazy at autozone. They dont even know what they are handing me i usually find the tool myself.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 06:13 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by octaneforce
Ive been renting **** like crazy at autozone. They dont even know what they are handing me i usually find the tool myself.
it's too bad that you are having to go there, and after the effort I kind of hope your hunch is correct.
but hear is a brighter side if your intake is leaking oil or coolant and the front of the motor off it would be a good time to swap out the cam and reseal the intake. also if your chain is wiped the cam may be a little worn.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by s carter
it's too bad that you are having to go there, and after the effort I kind of hope your hunch is correct.
but hear is a brighter side if your intake is leaking oil or coolant and the front of the motor off it would be a good time to swap out the cam and reseal the intake. also if your chain is wiped the cam may be a little worn.
Can the cam slide out while the motor is in the car? And then i would have to take the heads off and push rods and lifters bla bla bla. Is this motor hydraulic or solid lifters? Dont get me wrong id love to throw a lumpy cam in there but money and time are crucial. Every autox event that i miss is painful!
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 08:15 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by octaneforce
Can the cam slide out while the motor is in the car? And then i would have to take the heads off and push rods and lifters bla bla bla. Is this motor hydraulic or solid lifters? Dont get me wrong id love to throw a lumpy cam in there but money and time are crucial. Every autox event that i miss is painful!
I cant say 100% weather the 89 is a roller lifter or not and when I looked up for replacement parts it showed both ways,

as for pulling head I don't see any reason you would but to redo, as for the cam at most the radiator and carefully lift the a/c

Last edited by s carter; Sep 9, 2014 at 09:03 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 09:18 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by s carter
I cant say 100% weather the 89 is a roller lifter or not and when I looked up for replacement parts it showed both ways,

as for pulling head I don't see any reason you would but to redo, as for the cam at most the radiator and carefully lift the a/c
Usually new cam means new lifters, doesnt it? If its as simple as sliding the old one out and the new one in, then im on board.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 09:36 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by octaneforce
Usually new cam means new lifters, doesnt it? If its as simple as sliding the old one out and the new one in, then im on board.

New Cam = New Lifters as a set remember all wear that the cam got who gave it to it HUUUMMMM ???? I know the lifters. and I forgot to answer the hydraulic/solid lifter question. hydraulic

you may also need to at least loosen the oil pan because sometimes that front cover can be a bit of a pain to get back on, you don't totally have to plan on it but it is out there.


I will admit this is going to another level but it would be the time to do it.

Last edited by s carter; Sep 9, 2014 at 09:47 PM.
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Old Sep 10, 2014 | 02:37 AM
  #54  
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Octane i would just wait and ceck deeply before start wrenching hard,cuz i can't belive this issue is mecchanical/hardware related,i think it's more an electrical issue.Just for peace of mind ,do you read any code from aldl? May be your new dizzy fail?do you drop the new unit as a one piece out of the box? i don't want to number stupid mistakes,but,are the wires in the right firing order?how about spark plugs.i had an issue once ,after a week of garage, i tried to fire it up and no start,short story i messed with everything inside the engine bay (ignition related)had the car flooded by my attempts to fire it up....nothing... extrema ratio just for piece of mind i changed the plugs (that was good before) and this bad beast fired up like a dragon!i hope you can fix it soon and back on the road bro

Last edited by tunedport85inject; Sep 10, 2014 at 04:29 AM.
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Old Sep 10, 2014 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by tunedport85inject
Octane i would just wait and ceck deeply before start wrenching hard,cuz i can't belive this issue is mecchanical/hardware related,i think it's more an electrical issue.Just for peace of mind ,do you read any code from aldl? May be your new dizzy fail?do you drop the new unit as a one piece out of the box? i don't want to number stupid mistakes,but,are the wires in the right firing order?how about spark plugs.i had an issue once ,after a week of garage, i tried to fire it up and no start,short story i messed with everything inside the engine bay (ignition related)had the car flooded by my attempts to fire it up....nothing... extrema ratio just for piece of mind i changed the plugs (that was good before) and this bad beast fired up like a dragon!i hope you can fix it soon and back on the road bro
I agree with tune port, this sounds more like something more electical/sensor. unless the car is way high mileage, or run real hard chain failure? thats why I have thrown some way out thoughts.

thier are many componants under that hood,you have sensors so before doing major work on your car, take another look do all tests on the Dist. including reastblishing TDC Knowing your on compression stroke. I would hate for you go put a grand and a week under the hood and still have the same problem, so give one more well planned look

Last edited by s carter; Sep 10, 2014 at 09:36 AM.
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Old Sep 10, 2014 | 08:09 PM
  #56  
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I got pissed off after work today just staring at this car and started to tear it apart. Timing marks appear to line up but the chain has a bit of slack in it. It wasnt THAT hard to get to the timing chain. It needed a water pump anyway. About to donate this thing.

http://youtu.be/1xuxQjP1cVE

Wires are not mixed up, dizzy was installed correctly and i dont think it is defective because i have spark. I can even remove the plugs and watch the spark arc about 3/4 inch when i hold it close to the valve cover. Whats left? The ecm?
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Old Sep 10, 2014 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by octaneforce
I got pissed off after work today just staring at this car and started to tear it apart. Timing marks appear to line up but the chain has a bit of slack in it. It wasnt THAT hard to get to the timing chain. It needed a water pump anyway. About to donate this thing.

http://youtu.be/1xuxQjP1cVE

Wires are not mixed up, dizzy was installed correctly and i dont think it is defective because i have spark. I can even remove the plugs and watch the spark arc about 3/4 inch when i hold it close to the valve cover. Whats left? The ecm?
well the timing chain and timing are a know now, and now we also know that engine ware is not bad so unless you have a bad case of motivation I would leave old lumpy on the job, but since you are only 3 bolts from a timing chain I would replace. on a side you can get a cam advance/retard timing chain sprocket to give more bottom end torque, but that would be messing with things. also lumpy money can fund the ECM
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Old Sep 10, 2014 | 08:43 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by s carter
well the timing chain and timing are a know now, and now we also know that engine ware is not bad so unless you have a bad case of motivation I would leave old lumpy on the job, but since you are only 3 bolts from a timing chain I would replace. on a side you can get a cam advance/retard timing chain sprocket to give more bottom end torque, but that would be messing with things. also lumpy money can fund the ECM
Man, stop giving me ideas! I didnt even know changing the sprocket size was a thing
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Old Sep 10, 2014 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by octaneforce
Man, stop giving me ideas! I didnt even know changing the sprocket size was a thing

it doesn't change the size of anything. it just has three different choices of cam advanced to ran retarded one setting gives off the line jump but can reduce top end. and so on so lets not screw with things leave were it belongs
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Old Sep 19, 2014 | 02:18 PM
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New timing chain and gears, even a new water pump because i was in there. Car is re assembled and i replaced the ecm under the dash. Switched in the old prom. STILL NO START. does the EXACT same thing. Just occasional pops through the intake. I also realized that somebody has replaced this computer before. Whats next? Im really bummed about this.
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