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I'm putting in a heated oxygen sensor, can anyone tell me where an ignition on only hot wire is to connect to? It appears my test light took a crap on me.
Thanks Guys, before I saw nutz4C4’s reply I found another test light that worked. I found power at the connectors that used to go to the air pump I believe and used it. It’s a wimpy wire but seems to be working. I’ll probably relocate to one of the above options with a thicker wire. Thanks
Thanks Guys, before I saw nutz4C4’s reply I found another test light that worked. I found power at the connectors that used to go to the air pump I believe and used it. It’s a wimpy wire but seems to be working. I’ll probably relocate to one of the above options with a thicker wire. Thanks
You might consider using a relay and wiring them properly. Required? No - but I'd think it's likely a good idea.
Thanks Guys, before I saw nutz4C4’s reply I found another test light that worked. I found power at the connectors that used to go to the air pump I believe and used it. It’s a wimpy wire but seems to be working. I’ll probably relocate to one of the above options with a thicker wire. Thanks
As mentioned by others, it's not a good idea to power a heated 02 sensor by tapping into a small gauge wire meant for powering an air pump solenoid. You will need a power source protected by at aleast a 15 amp fuse to ba safe. A relay or a better power source would be a good idea.
This is why I tapped into the fan relay. Splicing in to the green wire put the relay between the connection and power
Yup, just did the same thing only on my 89 it’s a blue wire that is only hot with the ignition on.
Started it up this morning prior to moving the wire and had the same poor running condition I had before going to the heated O2. Code for O2 sensor was present before also with 33 for the MAF.
Service engine light came on again so I hooked up the scanner and 33 was still there but the O2 was not this time it only said O2 lean exhaust and MAF sensor or circuit to high. Switched the hot wire to the fan relay and disconnected the battery and turned the lights apparently they hold current? Tuner told me that one? After 5 minutes hooked it back up and all is normal again. Hopefully it will stay that way.
disconnected the battery and turned the lights apparently they hold current? Tuner told me that one? After 5 minutes hooked it back up and all is normal again. Hopefully it will stay that way.
The capacitors in the ECM store energy. That's the reason for turning on the headlights, which is not necessary. I measured the power going to the ECM and it goes to zero in less than a second, so there is no need to turn on the headlights or leave the battery disconnected for more than a second.
If your car has this connector (I don't know which years have this connector -- my '86 does) it's much easier to disconnect it for a second or so: