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89' pulling intake manifold questions

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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 04:12 PM
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Default 89' pulling intake manifold questions

In the process of removing the intake manifold to stop an oil leak at the back of drivers side. The 2 end bolts at no.7 were not torqued down and were very loose which caused the leak. All other bolts were tight. 70k miles on original gaskets from factory. Anyway, i'm trying to remove coolant from the manifold so it won't run into the engine oil when removed. I removed lower rad. hose and drained but there is still coolant showing up at the thermostat port. I siphoned that area dry. Any ideas how to remove the rest of the coolant from manifold?
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 04:37 PM
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Remove the knock sensor from the block.....in front of the starter under the little shield. Then there is a plug in the block on the other side that you can remove to drain the driver's side of the block. Need to remove both. This drain plug will probably need a 6 point socket and a breaker bar.
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 04:41 PM
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You could use this opportunity to drain the whole block. This way you will start with all new coolant and your cylinders will stay dry. At the bottom if each aide if the block is a plug that will stain the block. On the passenger side is usually a knock sensor. Remove this and water will drain out if that side if the block. On the drivers side, there will be a square plug or a hose fitting for the oil cooler. Drain this and you will have a pretty dry motor.
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 05:09 PM
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Definitely go ahead and flush the block out making sure your heater is on and in the hot position so it will drain as well. I use a 50-50 mix and am using distilled water to help stop corrosion of the system. Try and have the front of the car elevated and as before the heater on so it will fill and burp properly. Once you have it full and the thermostat is open I like to rev the engine and "pack" water in while its at a steady 2Krpm or so. Fill your reservoir as well with the mix. You should be good to go.
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by HlhnEast
Try and have the front of the car elevated and as before the heater on so it will fill and burp properly. Once you have it full and the thermostat is open I like to rev the engine and "pack" water in while its at a steady 2Krpm or so. Fill your reservoir as well with the mix. You should be good to go.
You would have to raise the front of the car high enough to get the top of the radiator higher than the throttle body. That's nice in theory, but not necessary in practice. The cooling system is self purging and all the air will work its way out after a few heat/cool cycles. "Packing" the system will shorten the time required to purge all the air out, but again, not necessary.

Having the heater on makes no difference in the way the water flows through the system, so there is no point in doing this.
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 02:01 PM
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Thx for the replies. I was hoping to stay away from removing anymore 25 year old bolts in order to clear the manifold of coolant. I'm still trying to drill out a broke off bolt at the thermo housing. So I cleared the thermostat port of coolant. What will happen if I don't drain the block via the 2 ports on either side and just yank off the intake manifold? I'm gonna hafta to change the oil anyway.
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Old Dec 9, 2014 | 02:26 PM
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I'm pulling the manifold tomorrow. 1st time so not sure what to expect. How much water can I expect to pour out if I didn't drain the block? Can't me much left up there????
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 07:17 PM
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I pulled the lft side sensor under plugs 1 and 3, a light trickle came out. Didn't bother with the rght side sensor. I yanked it off after a lil help with a pry bar up under the front of the manifold. It did have a few drops of coolant fall into the bottom of the valley which I wicked up w/ paper towels. I couldn't get the broken off bolt at the thermo housing to come out with a extractor so I took it to a machine shop. They drilled a 1/2 inch hole then threaded it with a fine threaded 1/2 - 20 and screwed a bolt in the hole using lock tight. Then he drilled a 3/8 hole inside the new 1/2 bolt and threaded it so a 3/8 inch bolt, same as original, will go back in it.
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