advice please!
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Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Norman OK
advice please!
hey guys, I bought a 1990 c4 for the drivetrain. Im gonna be putting the motor and trans in my 1955 chevy truck (2nd gen) the motor runs and has 118 thousand miles. im wanting to stay with TPI setup and of coure i wanna make it look fancy because it will be a show truck. whats yalls advice on goin through the motor? how much should i go through it? im wanting to put 1.6 roller rockers. thanks in advance for the tips!
cameron
cameron
Le Mans Master
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From: indy indiana
If I remember correctly, 1/6 rockers fit but the valve covers need trimming on the drip rails. I an sure others will chime in. By the way, if staying with stock specs, the engine is tourqued out and HP, by about 4800 so no high winding cam. That will be shooting yourself in the foot.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
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(my opinion, and my 2-cents - FWIW) I wouldn't even fool with 1.6 rockers. since your plans are pretty much a show truck, and you're not going to track the thing, might as well keep the 90 L98 pretty much stock. if you want to make it look a little fancy, you could polish the plenum, runners, and intake. there is a company out there that makes old school script center bolt valve covers, again polished, which would show well. I'd ditch the whole air cleaner assembly in favor of a TB mounted K&N, and add a sweet sounding exhaust. to top it off, nice touch would be chevy orange engine paint. if you start monkeying around with the engine's internals, you have to deal with tuning issues. I know guys that put tons of money in their engine, and never take their "show" cars over 50MPH. over compressed, cam'd, and over carb'd, and over geared, and these engines usually run like crap, most guys will say, that's no fun, but I'd keep it user friendly. 
Last edited by Joe C; Jan 24, 2015 at 09:08 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,735
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From: WV
If the engine is running in the Corvette , I would just listen to it and make sure there are no unusual noises or knocks coming from the motor..It would be a whole lot easier to repair something on a engine stand, then in your truck... I would replace oil pan gasket, rear main seal, valve cover gaskets, and any other gasket you can get to without tearing the motor apart...It would also be a good time to replace the intake gaskets and reseal the china walls with ( the right stuff) because if the intake gaskets are original , they could possibly be leaking soon...If your running an automatic trans, be sure to replace the front seal on the shaft, these should be replaced anything the trans is out of the car......Anther thing, if it were me , I would stay with the 1.5 rockers that are on the motor.. I think changing to higher performance rockers is a bad idea on a motor with that many miles, also, you won't see much difference in performance with just a rocker change...Of course this is just my opinion..
..Good Luck with the transplant....
....WW
..Good Luck with the transplant........WW
Last edited by WW7; Jan 24, 2015 at 12:29 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,257
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From: Ashland PA
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
118K for that motor is nothing as long as it is not making any unwanted noise or blowing smoke I would just put all new seals and valve cover gaskets and then polish it up or powdercoat it. Theres a guy on ebay that has a powdercoat service for TPI that looks real good.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TPI-Intake-Tube-Runner-Professional-Powder-Coating-Service-/181287027946?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a358c84ea&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TPI-Intake-Tube-Runner-Professional-Powder-Coating-Service-/181287027946?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a358c84ea&vxp=mtr
Last edited by eutu1984; Jan 24, 2015 at 09:29 AM. Reason: spelling
Thread Starter
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From: Norman OK
Hey guys thanks alot! yeah its gonna be a show truck.. but at the same time i want a little power, If im at a light and some punk wants to race to next light i wanna be able to blow his doors off.. lol not really but i want a little bit! i was thinking about putting a little bigger cam in and like i said doin the lifters.. it would sound good to! what kind of wire harness should i do? i heard i can buy a plug and play type harness that will get rid of alot of the stuff i dont need? thanks!
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Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Norman OK
If I remember correctly, 1/6 rockers fit but the valve covers need trimming on the drip rails. I an sure others will chime in. By the way, if staying with stock specs, the engine is tourqued out and HP, by about 4800 so no high winding cam. That will be shooting yourself in the foot.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Norman OK
118K for that motor is nothing as long as it is not making any unwanted noise or blowing smoke I would just put all new seals and valve cover gaskets and then polish it up or powdercoat it. Theres a guy on ebay that has a powdercoat service for TPI that looks real good.
TPI Intake Tube Runner Professional Powder Coating Service | eBay
TPI Intake Tube Runner Professional Powder Coating Service | eBay
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Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 67
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From: Norman OK
If the engine is running in the Corvette , I would just listen to it and make sure there are no unusual noises or knocks coming from the motor..It would be a whole lot easier to repair something on a engine stand, then in your truck... I would replace oil pan gasket, rear main seal, valve cover gaskets, and any other gasket you can get to without tearing the motor apart...It would also be a good time to replace the intake gaskets and reseal the china walls with ( the right stuff) because if the intake gaskets are original , they could possibly be leaking soon...If your running an automatic trans, be sure to replace the front seal on the shaft, these should be replaced anything the trans is out of the car......Anther thing, if it were me , I would stay with the 1.5 rockers that are on the motor.. I think changing to higher performance rockers is a bad idea on a motor with that many miles, also, you won't see much difference in performance with just a rocker change...Of course this is just my opinion....Good Luck with the transplant........WW
..Good Luck with the transplant........WW
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 67
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From: Norman OK
(my opinion, and my 2-cents - FWIW) I wouldn't even fool with 1.6 rockers. since your plans are pretty much a show truck, and you're not going to track the thing, might as well keep the 90 L98 pretty much stock. if you want to make it look a little fancy, you could polish the plenum, runners, and intake. there is a company out there that makes old school script center bolt valve covers, again polished, which would show well. I'd ditch the whole air cleaner assembly in favor of a TB mounted K&N, and add a sweet sounding exhaust. to top it off, nice touch would be chevy orange engine paint. if you start monkeying around with the engine's internals, you have to deal with tuning issues. I know guys that put tons of money in their engine, and never take their "show" cars over 50MPH. over compressed, cam'd, and over carb'd, and over geared, and these engines usually run like crap, most guys will say, that's no fun, but I'd keep it user friendly.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,054
Likes: 120
From: AZ
I'm doing this with a '55 F100 which is reportedly 700# lighter than the C4 the driveline came from. I am glad to have the 3.07 ratio, which should be quick enough for my wants and deliver decent consumption behind the 700R4. the L83 is carbed and built with an 'RV' cam, for torque.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,257
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From: Ashland PA
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
what are your plans for traction in the rear? Mroe power is cool, but that stock motor will spin 'em just fine, probably in at least three gears, depending on the setup.
I'm doing this with a '55 F100 which is reportedly 700# lighter than the C4 the driveline came from. I am glad to have the 3.07 ratio, which should be quick enough for my wants and deliver decent consumption behind the 700R4. the L83 is carbed and built with an 'RV' cam, for torque.
I'm doing this with a '55 F100 which is reportedly 700# lighter than the C4 the driveline came from. I am glad to have the 3.07 ratio, which should be quick enough for my wants and deliver decent consumption behind the 700R4. the L83 is carbed and built with an 'RV' cam, for torque.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,054
Likes: 120
From: AZ
oK. I quoted the shop that engineered and installed the frame adaptation and components and never checked until now.
Online references: 1984 C4 auto:3,192#; 1955 F100 V8: 3460 lb.
Online references: 1984 C4 auto:3,192#; 1955 F100 V8: 3460 lb.
Last edited by whalepirot; Jan 24, 2015 at 09:17 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,257
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From: Ashland PA
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,376
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From: Cherokee National Forest TN
Correct truck weights:
1954 - 1955 F-100 6 cyl. = 3,080 lbs.
1956 F-100 6.5 ft bed, 6 cyl. = 3,070 lbs.
1956 F-100 8 ft bed, 6 cyl. = 3,225 lbs.
1957 F-100 6.5 ft styleside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,110 lbs.
1957 F-100 6.5 ft flareside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,120 lbs.
1957 F-100 8 ft styleside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,285 lbs.
1957 F-100 8 ft flareside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,295 lbs.
OP, At the minimum suggest a valve job + head resurface & new timing chain & gears.
Cams: If more than .500 lift @ the valve the heads will need to be machined for guide to retainer/oil seal clearance.
1954 - 1955 F-100 6 cyl. = 3,080 lbs.
1956 F-100 6.5 ft bed, 6 cyl. = 3,070 lbs.
1956 F-100 8 ft bed, 6 cyl. = 3,225 lbs.
1957 F-100 6.5 ft styleside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,110 lbs.
1957 F-100 6.5 ft flareside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,120 lbs.
1957 F-100 8 ft styleside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,285 lbs.
1957 F-100 8 ft flareside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,295 lbs.
OP, At the minimum suggest a valve job + head resurface & new timing chain & gears.
Cams: If more than .500 lift @ the valve the heads will need to be machined for guide to retainer/oil seal clearance.
Last edited by Churchkey; Jan 24, 2015 at 09:49 PM.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 67
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From: Norman OK
what are your plans for traction in the rear? Mroe power is cool, but that stock motor will spin 'em just fine, probably in at least three gears, depending on the setup.
I'm doing this with a '55 F100 which is reportedly 700# lighter than the C4 the driveline came from. I am glad to have the 3.07 ratio, which should be quick enough for my wants and deliver decent consumption behind the 700R4. the L83 is carbed and built with an 'RV' cam, for torque.
I'm doing this with a '55 F100 which is reportedly 700# lighter than the C4 the driveline came from. I am glad to have the 3.07 ratio, which should be quick enough for my wants and deliver decent consumption behind the 700R4. the L83 is carbed and built with an 'RV' cam, for torque.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Norman OK
Correct truck weights:
1954 - 1955 F-100 6 cyl. = 3,080 lbs.
1956 F-100 6.5 ft bed, 6 cyl. = 3,070 lbs.
1956 F-100 8 ft bed, 6 cyl. = 3,225 lbs.
1957 F-100 6.5 ft styleside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,110 lbs.
1957 F-100 6.5 ft flareside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,120 lbs.
1957 F-100 8 ft styleside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,285 lbs.
1957 F-100 8 ft flareside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,295 lbs.
OP, At the minimum suggest a valve job + head resurface & new timing chain & gears.
Cams: If more than .500 lift @ the valve the heads will need to be machined for guide to retainer/oil seal clearance.
1954 - 1955 F-100 6 cyl. = 3,080 lbs.
1956 F-100 6.5 ft bed, 6 cyl. = 3,070 lbs.
1956 F-100 8 ft bed, 6 cyl. = 3,225 lbs.
1957 F-100 6.5 ft styleside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,110 lbs.
1957 F-100 6.5 ft flareside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,120 lbs.
1957 F-100 8 ft styleside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,285 lbs.
1957 F-100 8 ft flareside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,295 lbs.
OP, At the minimum suggest a valve job + head resurface & new timing chain & gears.
Cams: If more than .500 lift @ the valve the heads will need to be machined for guide to retainer/oil seal clearance.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 98
From: Ashland PA
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
Correct truck weights:
1954 - 1955 F-100 6 cyl. = 3,080 lbs.
1956 F-100 6.5 ft bed, 6 cyl. = 3,070 lbs.
1956 F-100 8 ft bed, 6 cyl. = 3,225 lbs.
1957 F-100 6.5 ft styleside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,110 lbs.
1957 F-100 6.5 ft flareside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,120 lbs.
1957 F-100 8 ft styleside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,285 lbs.
1957 F-100 8 ft flareside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,295 lbs.
OP, At the minimum suggest a valve job + head resurface & new timing chain & gears.
Cams: If more than .500 lift @ the valve the heads will need to be machined for guide to retainer/oil seal clearance.
1954 - 1955 F-100 6 cyl. = 3,080 lbs.
1956 F-100 6.5 ft bed, 6 cyl. = 3,070 lbs.
1956 F-100 8 ft bed, 6 cyl. = 3,225 lbs.
1957 F-100 6.5 ft styleside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,110 lbs.
1957 F-100 6.5 ft flareside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,120 lbs.
1957 F-100 8 ft styleside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,285 lbs.
1957 F-100 8 ft flareside bed, 6 cyl. = 3,295 lbs.
OP, At the minimum suggest a valve job + head resurface & new timing chain & gears.
Cams: If more than .500 lift @ the valve the heads will need to be machined for guide to retainer/oil seal clearance.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,376
Likes: 111
From: Cherokee National Forest TN
For a good plug/play engine management system suggest looking @ Howell products. I have used several of their systems in street rod builds. If the donor car ran ok you may be able to use its computer & save some $$$.
http://howellefi.com/gm-tpi-products...nesses-en.html
Be sure to check the fuel injectors to determine if they have been changed. 90's come with multi-tech injectors they fail due to corn gas.
The injection operating system is "batch fire", If one injector fails electrically it may stop several or all of the injectors from operating. Normally cold start will be ok the issues occur when the engine gets to operating temp.
Many here including myself have changed to Bosch 111 injectors available from Jon @FIC.
FIC contact info + spray pattern video here:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...questions.html
Last edited by Churchkey; Jan 25, 2015 at 03:02 AM. Reason: Add text
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Norman OK
The 90 Corvette uses a speed density system, basically no mass air flow in the intake air tube.
For a good plug/play engine management system suggest looking @ Howell products. I have used several of their systems in street rod builds. If the donor car ran ok you may be able to use its computer & save some $$$.
http://howellefi.com/gm-tpi-products...nesses-en.html
Be sure to check the fuel injectors to determine if they have been changed. 90's come with multi-tech injectors they fail due to corn gas.
The injection operating system is "batch fire", If one injector fails electrically it may stop several or all of the injectors from operating. Normally cold start will be ok the issues occur when the engine gets to operating temp.
Many here including myself have changed to Bosch 111 injectors available from Jon @FIC.
FIC contact info + spray pattern video here:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...questions.html
For a good plug/play engine management system suggest looking @ Howell products. I have used several of their systems in street rod builds. If the donor car ran ok you may be able to use its computer & save some $$$.
http://howellefi.com/gm-tpi-products...nesses-en.html
Be sure to check the fuel injectors to determine if they have been changed. 90's come with multi-tech injectors they fail due to corn gas.
The injection operating system is "batch fire", If one injector fails electrically it may stop several or all of the injectors from operating. Normally cold start will be ok the issues occur when the engine gets to operating temp.
Many here including myself have changed to Bosch 111 injectors available from Jon @FIC.
FIC contact info + spray pattern video here:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...questions.html