C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1986 all of a sudden started to flood out. HELP

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Old 06-07-2015, 01:01 AM
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jrwhites
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Default 1986 all of a sudden started to flood out. HELP

OK, drove it about 20 miles, parked it for about 8 hours, and it wouldn't start. To make a long story short, it was flooded out, badly. Here is what I have so far.

Fuel pressure at 32 PSI and not draining.
Changed out the coolant temp sensor.
Fuel pressure regulator OK.
I do get the service engine light on when on the highway. Code 32 EGR. Reset.
12V at injectors.

Pull the FR fuse and can get it to start and idle after clearing the flood. Install the fuse again and it floods out. One time it did run pretty good, but just floods it back up. Acts like the injectors are just open.

This car has never given me any trouble, 47,000 original miles.

Any help would be appreciated.
Old 06-07-2015, 01:33 AM
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ex-x-fire
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Hook up a noid light & crank it, is it steady or does it blink?
Old 06-07-2015, 01:38 AM
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Try unplugging the maf sensor & see if it starts easier. It might have grime on the hot wire causing bad readings too.
Old 06-07-2015, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ex-x-fire
Hook up a noid light & crank it, is it steady or does it blink?
I don't have a noid light, but I put a test light on and one side it is on, also 12V the other side not. With the test light on the side with no light and starting the car should it blink for pulsating? I put it on the 12V side and it didn't blink there either. Wondering if this would even cause the flooding?
Old 06-07-2015, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jrwhites
I don't have a noid light, but I put a test light on and one side it is on, also 12V the other side not. With the test light on the side with no light and starting the car should it blink for pulsating? I put it on the 12V side and it didn't blink there either. Wondering if this would even cause the flooding?
Also the MAFS is fine. Unplugged for limp mode, no difference.
Old 06-07-2015, 01:51 AM
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The ecm grounds the other side to fire the injector, so hook the test light to the + side of the battery & retest.
Old 06-07-2015, 01:52 AM
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Check the fuel pressure regulator for fuel in the vacuum line.

If the FPR diaphragm is ruptured it will send fuel into the plenum and it will run very rich.
Old 06-07-2015, 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
Check the fuel pressure regulator for fuel in the vacuum line.

If the FPR diaphragm is ruptured it will send fuel into the plenum and it will run very rich.
All clear, no fuel in the line
Old 06-07-2015, 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ex-x-fire
The ecm grounds the other side to fire the injector, so hook the test light to the + side of the battery & retest.
Will do in the morning, I'll report back.
Old 06-07-2015, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ex-x-fire
The ecm grounds the other side to fire the injector, so hook the test light to the + side of the battery & retest.
Well here that went.

Had the test light on ground and one side of the injector terminal and it stayed light, no pulse.

Had the test light on battery positive side, and negative side of terminal, lite up, no pulse.

So this is telling me the injectors are wide open at all times

What controls that? The ECM, or a ground wire. Now I did check both sides, same result.

This makes a little sense since the car will idle with the FR fuse removed and the fuel pump not running.

Last edited by jrwhites; 06-07-2015 at 10:48 AM.
Old 06-07-2015, 11:55 AM
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Here's a basic diagram of a Chevy tpi (not sure it's an 86 vette though). You see that the ecm grounds the injectors.
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jrwhites
Well here that went.

Had the test light on ground and one side of the injector terminal and it stayed light, no pulse.

Had the test light on battery positive side, and negative side of terminal, lite up, no pulse.

So this is telling me the injectors are wide open at all times

What controls that? The ECM, or a ground wire. Now I did check both sides, same result.

This makes a little sense since the car will idle with the FR fuse removed and the fuel pump not running.
Was that test done while cranking the engine?
Old 06-07-2015, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ex-x-fire
Was that test done while cranking the engine?
While running at idle, it runs at idle with the fr fuse for the fuel pump pulled. I think because the injectors are all stuck open

Last edited by jrwhites; 06-07-2015 at 12:05 PM.
Old 06-07-2015, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ex-x-fire
Was that test done while cranking the engine?
Also when cranking, no flashing, just a steady light
Old 06-07-2015, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jrwhites
Also when cranking, no flashing, just a steady light
Well with the key on, I checked at the ECM and both the green and blue wires and only get 1.0V should be 12 according to my service manual with the key on.

I get good resistance at all the injectors. My service manual says ECM. Does this seem right with how the ECM tested, or could there be a short somewhere causing the ecm not to test ok.

Last edited by jrwhites; 06-07-2015 at 02:04 PM.
Old 06-07-2015, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jrwhites
Well with the key on, I checked at the ECM and both the green and blue wires and only get 1.0V should be 12 according to my service manual with the key on
Looks at the wiring diagram, the blue & green wires are grounded on & off by the ecm. They're not going to have 12v. The other side should. Its easier to use a noid light. The injector works like a bulb.
Old 06-07-2015, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ex-x-fire
Looks at the wiring diagram, the blue & green wires are grounded on & off by the ecm. They're not going to have 12v. The other side should. Its easier to use a noid light. The injector works like a bulb.
You're right. At the connector DISCONNECTED from the ECM I have 12.7V

I'll have to get a noid light, but I do know the injectors cannot be pulsating. While running, I used a long screw driver and I do not hear any clicking from the injector either.

So if the noid light shows no pulsating, then it is back to the ECM?

I checked over the harness and it looks good.

My 02 sensor wire looks rough, but no codes.

As I wait to get a noid tester, and other things I should look at?

Thanks, I really really appreciate your help.

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To 1986 all of a sudden started to flood out. HELP

Old 06-07-2015, 02:44 PM
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I wonder if there is a short to ground between the injector connectors & the ecm.
Yeah, you should hear the injectors clicking when its running. Ideally you'd want to scan it for weird data before condemning the ecm.
Maybe try ohming the injectors.
Old 06-07-2015, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ex-x-fire
I wonder if there is a short to ground between the injector connectors & the ecm.
Yeah, you should hear the injectors clicking when its running. Ideally you'd want to scan it for weird data before condemning the ecm.
Maybe try ohming the injectors.
I did OHM the injectors, all good.

I'll check again the harness, but it looked good.

So to check for the short, trace the wiring from each injector to the firewall basically.
Old 06-07-2015, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jrwhites
I did OHM the injectors, all good.

I'll check again the harness, but it looked good.

So to check for the short, trace the wiring from each injector to the firewall basically.
One more thing, it looks like each side of injectors is it's own system. They don't collect until they enter the ecm. I could see it wrong since I'm not the best at reading schematics.

Pulled the ecm and apart, nothing visually wrong.


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