Car has power when key is slotted, no power after attempted ignition.
#1
Car has power when key is slotted, no power after attempted ignition.
Hi, new user here.
I have a 1985 Corvette that hasn't run for about 3 years. I'm having trouble with the power. When I place the key in the ignition, and turn it a click, the dash/power works. Once I attempt to actually start the car though, all power goes out instantly, like there's no charge from the battery. At the same time, a single 'click' sound also comes from the passenger side of the engine.
If I remove the positive/negative cables from the battery and reconnect them, I can again turn the key to turn on the dash lights/power, but after trying to start again, it does the same thing and loses power instantly.
What do you guys think?
I have a 1985 Corvette that hasn't run for about 3 years. I'm having trouble with the power. When I place the key in the ignition, and turn it a click, the dash/power works. Once I attempt to actually start the car though, all power goes out instantly, like there's no charge from the battery. At the same time, a single 'click' sound also comes from the passenger side of the engine.
If I remove the positive/negative cables from the battery and reconnect them, I can again turn the key to turn on the dash lights/power, but after trying to start again, it does the same thing and loses power instantly.
- I replaced the battery about 1 month ago.
- Just a couple weeks ago I removed the starter and had it tested at two separate locations. They both said it was working great.
- A few people have stated it may be an issue with the security system. Not sure where to start with that.
- The previous owner said they disabled the security system and horn due to it having an issue with it going off randomly.
- My keys do not have one of those security chips on it that other Corvettes seem to have.
- A few other people have stated the problem may be bad battery cables.
- Despite the initial problem of losing power, I was able to get it to turn over but not run about 2 months back. Then, after I moved it and replaced the fuel pump, it did the same thing again, where it would lose all power after trying to start it. I have no idea what I did to get it to turn-over that one time.
What do you guys think?
#2
Bad battery bad connections or bad grounds in your case would guess grounds or burnt cable.
Last edited by antfarmer2; 07-27-2015 at 08:51 PM.
#4
Race Director
When I had those symptoms it was caused by a battery leaking acid into the positive battery cable, which ate up the copper conductor.
Check both battery cables -- both ends.
Check both battery cables -- both ends.
#5
You guys were right. The negative battery cable head bolt was completely worn out. I didn't think it was really a problem since the dash lights were coming on, but a relative with a tremendous amount of automotive experience looked at my car and noticed it right away.
We replaced the bolt and hooked it up to the battery and the car immediately started turning over. Now it won't stay running due to some kind of fuel problem but that's another story. (The car makes some bad creaking sounds - but the fuel is over 2-years-old so that's probably a big part of the problem.)
Thanks for the help.
We replaced the bolt and hooked it up to the battery and the car immediately started turning over. Now it won't stay running due to some kind of fuel problem but that's another story. (The car makes some bad creaking sounds - but the fuel is over 2-years-old so that's probably a big part of the problem.)
Thanks for the help.