1984 AC & Smog Air Pump delete - what to do with large pipe
#1
1984 AC & Smog Air Pump delete - what to do with large pipe
Gents,
Just decided to delete the A/C Compressor, some associated lines/brackets as well as the Smog Pump and associated parts.
Save 14lbs with the Smog Pump and its parts.
AC R4 Compressor and parts estimating at 20lbs (17 for the compressor and 3 for other parts; accumulator, lines, bracket etc)
Keeping all the parts in case someone wants to put it back together in 30 years or so!
Just a fun day project- not trying to open a can of worms about why to do it, or what I gain, just a fun afternoon of messing around, but here's my math:
Old Weight (3500) / New Weight-to-Power Ratio (16.74) = 209.08 hp
(guesstimating on old weight at starting point from 3,200lbs)
OEM HP 205?
Old Weight (3200)/New Weight to Power ratio (3166 at 205=Power to weight ratio now of 15.4439)= 3200/15.4439= 207.2
SOOooooooo That's like gaining 2.2 Horsepower from the weight savings!!!
Now some will claim the pulley spins easier, etc etc...but just from weight alone I'm claiming a 1% gain for the fun of it....
Used a 70.5" Dayco Belt from AutoZone, part number 5060705 aka 6PK1790
Belt is from a 2003 Chevy Impala. Fits nicely under the pulley. Drove 20 miles hard and no issues yet to be found.
For plugging up the pipes from the headers took off the one way valves and use the 1/2" pipe caps.
Used rubber HELP! brand vacuum plugs on the left over AC parts so they don't get clogged/dirt.
For the Air Cleaner used a HELP! brand master cylinder rubber replacement from Advance Auto (fits quite nicely)
Also added a vacuum plug for where the air pump sensor goes to the manifold.
No check lights or affect on idle/running to be seen.
Question I have now is what to do with the big honking metal tube that goes from the header area to the air cleaner system?
It's the one in the picture below.
Also, I have read from some folks that giving a 'little' air to the Catalytic Converter is not a bad idea to keep it running well. Thougts here appreciated. Plan to plug up that one way valve with a 1/2" pipe cap and some anti seize on it.
Here's the big honking silver pipe...
Routed under the old pulley
Cleans up the area well, tied some of the old wiring out of the way- makes for easy access...
Here's the belt used if anyone is looking.
Just decided to delete the A/C Compressor, some associated lines/brackets as well as the Smog Pump and associated parts.
Save 14lbs with the Smog Pump and its parts.
AC R4 Compressor and parts estimating at 20lbs (17 for the compressor and 3 for other parts; accumulator, lines, bracket etc)
Keeping all the parts in case someone wants to put it back together in 30 years or so!
Just a fun day project- not trying to open a can of worms about why to do it, or what I gain, just a fun afternoon of messing around, but here's my math:
Old Weight (3500) / New Weight-to-Power Ratio (16.74) = 209.08 hp
(guesstimating on old weight at starting point from 3,200lbs)
OEM HP 205?
Old Weight (3200)/New Weight to Power ratio (3166 at 205=Power to weight ratio now of 15.4439)= 3200/15.4439= 207.2
SOOooooooo That's like gaining 2.2 Horsepower from the weight savings!!!
Now some will claim the pulley spins easier, etc etc...but just from weight alone I'm claiming a 1% gain for the fun of it....
Used a 70.5" Dayco Belt from AutoZone, part number 5060705 aka 6PK1790
Belt is from a 2003 Chevy Impala. Fits nicely under the pulley. Drove 20 miles hard and no issues yet to be found.
For plugging up the pipes from the headers took off the one way valves and use the 1/2" pipe caps.
Used rubber HELP! brand vacuum plugs on the left over AC parts so they don't get clogged/dirt.
For the Air Cleaner used a HELP! brand master cylinder rubber replacement from Advance Auto (fits quite nicely)
Also added a vacuum plug for where the air pump sensor goes to the manifold.
No check lights or affect on idle/running to be seen.
Question I have now is what to do with the big honking metal tube that goes from the header area to the air cleaner system?
It's the one in the picture below.
Also, I have read from some folks that giving a 'little' air to the Catalytic Converter is not a bad idea to keep it running well. Thougts here appreciated. Plan to plug up that one way valve with a 1/2" pipe cap and some anti seize on it.
Here's the big honking silver pipe...
Routed under the old pulley
Cleans up the area well, tied some of the old wiring out of the way- makes for easy access...
Here's the belt used if anyone is looking.
#2
Parts
Hey mate,
I've got an 84 C4 here in Australia and have been having a hard time tracking down some of the switches I need to get the AC running. Wondering if you'd be up for selling and shipping a couple to Aus?
I need the switch that is located in the top of the AC Compressor, it is held in by a circlip, and the switch that is found on the back of the AC hoses that bolt up to the compressor. I'd be grateful if you'd consider selling them. Let me know.
Darren
I've got an 84 C4 here in Australia and have been having a hard time tracking down some of the switches I need to get the AC running. Wondering if you'd be up for selling and shipping a couple to Aus?
I need the switch that is located in the top of the AC Compressor, it is held in by a circlip, and the switch that is found on the back of the AC hoses that bolt up to the compressor. I'd be grateful if you'd consider selling them. Let me know.
Darren
#3
The big silver pipe directs warmed air to the air cleaner housing, if the system is working right I'd leave it alone. It has nothing to do with the air pump. It helps drivability in cold weather.
If you do get rid of the big pipe make sure you unhook the vacuum hose that operates it. It has a bimetal switch that open & closes with the heated air, so no heated air means the valve to the pipe stays open. Unhooking the vacuum will allow both flaps to open cool air.
If you do get rid of the big pipe make sure you unhook the vacuum hose that operates it. It has a bimetal switch that open & closes with the heated air, so no heated air means the valve to the pipe stays open. Unhooking the vacuum will allow both flaps to open cool air.