454Luvr

I know this topic has probably been discussed to death, and I apologize for bringing it up again. I did search, but didn't find what I was looking for.

I'm thinking about buying an automatic C4 that has the Dana 36 rear. The car is really inexpensive, and that leaves enough funds to improve performance. The first thing I want to do is change out the 2.59 gears for something like 3:55 or 3:73. The motor is pre-LT1, so I might also change the chip and/or install a slightly hotter cam.

Is there a general consensus as to whether the Dana 36 case is strong enough to handle changes like these? I won't be taking her to the dragstrip, but I'm a spirited driver. If there's a significant risk of breakage, I'll start out with a conversion to the Dana 44.

Thanks!

Tom400CFI

D36 should handle that NO problem...unless you're deliberately trying to beat it to destruction.

TWayneNelson on this forums was running a D36 behind a SB 400 w/AFR's 230ish cam, Miniram, LT headers, etc....and he DID drag track that car...never had an issue w/the D36.

vader86

No problem. My combination is more radical.

TA

As long as you're not hitting the dragstrip with sticky tires you should be fine. Even if you decide to take it to the strip, you might be fine. Some D36s last hundreds of passes at the strip, while others grenade on the first pass. My first D36 (2.59) lasted several years of abuse at the track and was still fine when I removed it. My second D36 (3.07) lasted less then a season before it let go. I have a D44 now.

WVZR-1

You've got things to consider in your situation. You've got a 2.59 so you're needing to buy a gear, an install kit, clutch-pack and likely a couple pinion gear washers (clutch-pack & pinion washers are suggestions) if your intention is for the D36 to work and maybe last.

Now if you were to stumble upon or shop hard for a rear set-up with the 3.54 or 3.73 then maybe it's only the clutch-pack and pinions OR if you're fortunate it needs nothing and you resell the 2.59 assembled.

BUT MAYBE shop/wait for a D44 with a gear that's suitable, the rear cover and C-beam then do the install just once. You might need to do some maintenance on the D44 but if you shopped wisely and were patient you could accomplish it.

Drive the 2.59 until!!

I don't doubt the D36 is capable but they require maintenance and that ain't just "changing fluid" every 50K miles. To get the gear you want for the D36 isn't cheap so maybe just hang on and shop. Believe it or not there's "shoppers" for the 2.59.

whalepirot

My drivetrain pro cryo treated my entire D36 for extra measure, adding that you can destroy D44, too. I suspect our driivng styles are similar.

I agree about checking the mod costs to avoid di$$apointment, later.