JrRifleCoach

Cliff's first post is your best bet.
Keep the overflow res full. Run it up to temp and pack with water. Cap her off while holding that RPM. You may want another hand to crack open the bleeder as well. Drive and when cool open the cap and add more water if necessary. Might take a few tries....

Tom400CFI

Well this is getting a little OT, but there are several advantages to a high flow pump and you nailed a couple: reduced hot spots, and potentially faster cooling. Also, reduced power consumption -a more efficient pump can be driven at a lower speed while pumping the same volume of water. Also higher speed means higher pressure which also means better heat transfer between the metal and water.

Increasing water speed has diminishing returns; pumping the water twice as fast (as stock) won't cool twice as good, so while it may not provide a benefit for the cost, power used, etc., increasing coolant speed won't certainly cause overheating -as the myth says.

WW7

That's exactly what I'm doing now...I take the car out a few times each day , then let it cool..I've been doing this for a few days now and I have had to add water a few times.. I've only tried packing the system one time, I may give that a try again tomorrow.....Most people I talk to say it will eventually purge itself, but it shouldn't be this much trouble to accomplish..I was going to reinstall that stock heater hose with the tube, but the threads aren't the same on my Edelbrock manifold as the stock manifold .... Thanks WW

Aardwolf

I have the highest flowing pump I could find and have no problems with air. It's on my track car set up for maximum cooling. Cruising on the street output temp is only 98° but racing it gets to 200°. Now if I could only keep the oil temp under 300°!

SJW

Try pushing the air out of the bleeders with a cooling system pressure tester, and the engine off. This will take the water pump and thermostat out of the picture completely, as they'll be inactive.

Live well,

SJW

WW7

When I used the "Stewart high flow racing Thermostat with the Edelbrock high flow pump I couldn't get my car to run over 165 degrees, that's way to cool for a street car, and it was making my car run terrible because my tune is set for the car to run at around 180 degrees..But, I could at least get the air to purge out with the Stewart racing thermostat....WW





The L-98 engine doesn't have any bleeders like the LT1 engine does...I'm going to install one in the back of the manifold and maybe drill and tap one in the thermostat housing to help in purging the air...Can't hurt...WW

SJW

Apologies for the oversight. I'd somehow lost track, in all of the back-and-forth on this thread, and thought you were dealing with an LT1.

Live well,

SJW

Tom400CFI

Have missed something in this thread?

crowz

Ok I was thinking LT1 too. L98 shouldn't really have air trapping issues should it? Ive never had air bleed issues with any of my L98's that I know of.

blackozvet

Have you tried running the engine up to temperature with the radiator cap off ?
you can do it in the driveway or drive it around the block with the cap on first click,

if the radiator is full, when the engine comes up to temp and the thermostat opens (you can just watch the temp gauge) and you can then top up with coolant then you have probably got rid of some air in the system.

WW7

Tom, I gave the symptoms back in Post #20 ......WW

WW7

I have tried this already, I even jacked the front of the car up like some have said to do...This was the first thing I tried after filling the radiator..I'm going to retry all the methods for burping I know of later today.....WW

ex-x-fire

Get one of these & see if there are bubbles in the system after the t stat opens. You might have combustion gases getting into the system.
Does the heater blow hot?

WVZR-1

Don't see them very often but it's certainly a "solution" for most. Seems pricing has come down from what I recall. Maybe not.

I see some priced in the mid to higher $20's.

WW7

The heater is bypassed so that's not the problem...I have seen those funnels on You Tube and it seems like alot of guys use them with good results...Maybe worth a try ,but I have run the engine with the cap off the radiator until the thermostat opens and it didn't solve the problem..Thanks .WW

Up until my old water pump went bad a few weeks ago the car was fine so it's not an internal gas leak...I have just started having this problem since I replaced the water pump on my car....I used a high flow water pump this time and I'm thinking I may go back to a stock pump..At least with the stock flow pumps I've used I could get them to eventually purge....

Aardwolf

I looked back at post 20 and you're adding coolant air drains because your oil temp was 10 degree warmer? That's strange, I also think it's strange your car "runs terrible" from a water temp increase 165 to 180. It sounds like a bad tune. It sound run fine at any temp.

WW7

It's not that the oil temp is higher, it's how fast it can jump 10-14 degrees now.It use to go up slowly and come down slowly...This can be caused by a hot spot in the engine because of air in the coolant.. Maybe terrible was an extreme word to use , but it doesn't run as well at 160-165 degrees as it does at 180-185..The main reason I know there's air is because I can be running along at 45-50 mph and the coolant temperature is jumping from 179 degrees to around 188 degrees (up and down).The car never overheats and when Im stuck at a light and the temp goes up high enough to make the fan come on, the temp does come down as the fan runs...Just not as fast as it did before......WW

Aardwolf

1. Oil temp can climb 10-14 quicker than before.

2. Water temp fluctuates 9 degrees at cruise.

The first thing I would look at is if the radiator is dirty clogged like these cars get.

WW7

It's a 4 year old Dewitt's and is perfectly clean, inside and out....No trash in front......WW

The car ran and cooled great until the old water pump went bad,, and it still cooled fine , it just leaked out the weep hole... Nothing else was changed just the water pump was replaced...

Tom400CFI

Whoops, you sure are right. IDK how I missed that. :/

I don't have anything to add at the moment...Aardwolf, ex x fire and everyone else has you covered pretty well, IMO.