C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Pennzoil Platinum how about

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Old 10-09-2015, 05:57 PM
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Christi@n
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Default Pennzoil Platinum how about

Any opinions about Pennz Platinum. it meets GM 4718m, i usually use Mobil1 5w30 that is reccomend from factory, but i've find out this one too...

anyone ever used? is it better than Mobil??

I'm interested on this
Old 10-09-2015, 06:06 PM
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crowz
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On the cars I run synthetic in which is most of them I use mobil1. Ive tried all other kinds over the years and never found anything that did any better for me so I just don't bother anymore personally. Its works so why bother is my attitude now. No idea on the one your asking about. I do use Valvoline synthetic in my diesels but its rated for them.
Old 10-09-2015, 06:18 PM
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https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
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Old 10-09-2015, 06:19 PM
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they say ''made from natural gas''

in the future i will try to put it in my engine
Old 10-09-2015, 06:29 PM
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Reading thanks
Old 10-09-2015, 06:58 PM
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Pennz from natural gas is 66 on ranking, nice but poor repspect to the other with just 87000psi of wear protection

Pennz no natural gas is better at 25th in the ranking

But seems that one of the best is mobil 1 in 11th position with 105,875 psi of wear protection...

Also seems that moly and calcium are important elements against wear, mobil 1 have these

Last edited by Christi@n; 10-09-2015 at 07:04 PM.
Old 10-09-2015, 07:03 PM
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Interesting read. I like seeing actual test data instead of opinions without any basis.

As for the OP's question. I have used Pennzoil Platinum for about 8 years now. I stumbled across a sale (or maybe mismarked) at $10 for a 5 quart jug. I stocked up. I have not tried the made from natural gas version.

I have not had any oil related failures, but I didn't have any from any other oil I have used either.
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Old 10-10-2015, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by crowz
On the cars I run synthetic in which is most of them I use mobil1. Ive tried all other kinds over the years and never found anything that did any better for me so I just don't bother anymore personally. Its works so why bother is my attitude now. No idea on the one your asking about. I do use Valvoline synthetic in my diesels but its rated for them.
As long as you use a good quality full synthetic oil in the proper viscosity that meets the GM 4718M specification, you won't have any problems as long as you follow the recommendation for oil change intervals for a full synthetic oil.

Most good quality synthetics also meet the new GM "Dexos-1" spec so look for that on the label on the bottle. I would recommend only using oils that have the Dexos1 spec shown on the container.

Pennzoil Platinum is a good oil and will work just as well as Mobil-1 in your LT1 engine. I found this link that discusses Pennzoil Platinum oils and there is a disclaimer on the page regarding the Pennzoil Platinum Euro products.
This paragraph states:

PurePlus™ Technology is a revolutionary process that converts natural gas into a 99.5% pure base oil. Combining it with high performance additives means Pennzoil Platinum® Full Synthetic motor oil is proven to keep pistons up to 40% cleaner1

Further down the disclaimer states:

1Based on ILSAC GF-5, Sequence IIIG piston deposit test using SAE 5W-30, and Ford, Chrysler and GM specifications. Does not apply to Pennzoil Platinum® Euro products.

To be honest, I have not heard of using natural gas to make motor oils although it does sound interesting. But the caution here is the disclaimer about using the Pennzoil Platinum oils that are sold in Europe. In general street use, this may not be a big deal.

So I think you will be fine with the Pennzoil oils and find it will work as well as Mobil-1.
Old 10-10-2015, 10:46 AM
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just my 2-cents, FWIW -- i'm sure there are better oils than mobil 1, but mobil 1, meets the engine's minimum requirements as defined by the general. anything better is overkill. proper lubrication system maintenance is the key, and with proper care, these engines will outlast the cars ownership. when was the last time you heard of an engine failure due to ENGINE OIL? i'd be more concerned with the quality of the filter.
Old 10-10-2015, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by c4cruiser
As long as you use a good quality full synthetic oil in the proper viscosity that meets the GM 4718M specification, you won't have any problems as long as you follow the recommendation for oil change intervals for a full synthetic oil.

Most good quality synthetics also meet the new GM "Dexos-1" spec so look for that on the label on the bottle. I would recommend only using oils that have the Dexos1 spec shown on the container.

Pennzoil Platinum is a good oil and will work just as well as Mobil-1 in your LT1 engine. I found this link that discusses Pennzoil Platinum oils and there is a disclaimer on the page regarding the Pennzoil Platinum Euro products.
This paragraph states:

PurePlus™ Technology is a revolutionary process that converts natural gas into a 99.5% pure base oil. Combining it with high performance additives means Pennzoil Platinum® Full Synthetic motor oil is proven to keep pistons up to 40% cleaner1

Further down the disclaimer states:

1Based on ILSAC GF-5, Sequence IIIG piston deposit test using SAE 5W-30, and Ford, Chrysler and GM specifications. Does not apply to Pennzoil Platinum® Euro products.

To be honest, I have not heard of using natural gas to make motor oils although it does sound interesting. But the caution here is the disclaimer about using the Pennzoil Platinum oils that are sold in Europe. In general street use, this may not be a big deal.

So I think you will be fine with the Pennzoil oils and find it will work as well as Mobil-1.
Never known what gm4718m requires? Do you?
Old 10-10-2015, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Christi@n
Never known what gm4718m requires? Do you?
No. The GM 4718M spec came out when the LT1 engine was put into the '92 and later Corvettes as Mobil-1 full synthetic was the factory fill and synthetic oil was required in that engine. Mobil was the company selected to help build the 4718M spec and provide the oil for Corvettes from that point to today.

The previous Corvette engine (L98) didn't use synthetic but there was an oil cooler to help keep oil temps down. Those engines just used a standard 5W-30 oil. When the LT1 was designed, a full synthetic oil was specified as the old L98 oil cooler was not used in order to cut costs and save weight. The full synthetic oil is able to handle high oil temperatures much better than conventional oils.

Joe C is right about lots of good synthetic oils being available and using a good quality oil filter. Unless you see a significant price savings with something like the Pennzoil Platinum, there's no real reason to stop using Mobil-1.
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Old 10-10-2015, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe C
just my 2-cents, FWIW -- i'm sure there are better oils than mobil 1, but mobil 1, meets the engine's minimum requirements as defined by the general. anything better is overkill. proper lubrication system maintenance is the key, and with proper care, these engines will outlast the cars ownership. when was the last time you heard of an engine failure due to ENGINE OIL? i'd be more concerned with the quality of the filter.
Quaker State



While that image is not mine it is what I have seen from customers running it in the old days.

Evil oil as far as I'm concerned.
Old 10-10-2015, 04:50 PM
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One strange thing I noticed with the quaker state too. 75% of the cars that gummed up like that were slant 6 dodge motors and straight 6 pontiac engines. Straight 6 chevy engines had some but not near as much.

All belonged to older people that had their oil changed by me regularly and wanted nothing but quaker state oil. So this involved slow driving short distances. The ones that ran other oils didn't have this problem but had the same driving patterns.

The joys of trying to warn old timers back then that they shouldn't run it after seeing the pattern was always fun
Old 10-10-2015, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by crowz
Quaker State



While that image is not mine it is what I have seen from customers running it in the old days.

Evil oil as far as I'm concerned.
old days and old timers -

is it from the oil, or lack of maintenance? I doubt it's from the oil. I have never seen sludge in an engine like that with proper maintenance, and scheduled oil changes. i'm wondering what the time between changes was on that engine -- i'm thinking maybe 20-30K, or more - ??? back in my college days, I used to run QS in an old beetle - changed the oil about every 3K miles. when I dropped the filter plate during the oil change, I did notice a white sludge on the filter plate. never had that sludge on any other oil. I quit using QS years ago. while QS is not my first choice in oil, I doubt the sludge in the photo was caused by the oil.

not trying to defend QS or anything, but here's something I found on sludge and QS -


Question:
Does Quaker State oil ( conventional ) cause sludge?

Heard from several old-timers that Quaker State was known to cause excess sludge in engines.

Is there any truth to this, and can you point me to any objective reviews, comparisons, etc of Quaker State non-synthetic oil.

Best Answer:

There are rumors about that, but in my experience Quaker State is fine as long as it is changed on schedule - the same as applies to other oils. In the old-timers' day (mine too - I am almost 60) sludge was a common problem (first source). Modern API standards have pretty much done away with that as long as the recommended oil change intervals are followed.

To be precise, oil does not cause sludge, engine conditions do. All mineral oils are approximately equally vulnerable to the conditions that cause sludge (see the second source and the links within it), while synthetics differ somewhat depending on the base stock from which they are made.

Last edited by Joe C; 10-10-2015 at 06:21 PM.
Old 10-10-2015, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by crowz
Quaker State



While that image is not mine it is what I have seen from customers running it in the old days.

Evil oil as far as I'm concerned.
Is thar a real sludge?? seems to be a trick

I never seen an engine in condtions
Old 10-10-2015, 06:33 PM
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Its real sludge. On the inline 6 motors the head is flat unlike the V motors and the oil sludge just builds up over time. On the quaker state ones it literally was 3 to 4 inches deep. This isn't hearsay its what I ran into wrench turning for a living in the day.

The only oil related issues Ive personally dealt with were :

Quaker State oil sludge.

Havoline motor oil causing ticking when customers ran the car low on oil. Valve ticking. Not clinical study level just enough times to make me leary of it back in the day.

Also one brand of 2 stroke oil which I cant remember the brand name being mixed up at the factory with some other kind of oil. I made a killing on that one rebuilding motors
Old 10-10-2015, 06:36 PM
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What got me to take the quaker state ones apart was the sludge build up to the point the oil would go into the valve covers and stay there

Talk about smoking engine and a royal mess. This was across a bunch cars. The old straight 6's were real popular with the little old ladies that came in to get their cars worked on. The gm 6's usually couldn't handle the sludge build up but twice. The old slant 6 dodge motors could handle it over and over. Those things were super tuff lasting wise.

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To Pennzoil Platinum how about

Old 10-10-2015, 06:44 PM
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Oh and the ones that went with other brands of oil stopped having the sludge build up. I didn't take the ones that switched apart but I didn't see buildup problems looking down into the valve cover and I never had to do the sludge clean out again on them.

Sludge stuff is funny. It doesn't show in the oil filter on the sludged cars. I took a few of the filters apart but nothing really stood out in the filter media. Weird.
Old 10-10-2015, 10:18 PM
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What is the make of that engine? DOHC? Looks like a pretty late model car, not an old stove-bolt Chevy six. An engine that is always driven on short "grocery runs" won't have a chance to warm up properly, and will condense water vapors in the valve/cam covers, and this may cause this type of sludge in some non-synthetic motor oils.

I'd guess this engine had a bad head gasket. Do I see an Audi symbol in the far right side of this picture?


Last edited by Hot Rod Roy; 10-10-2015 at 10:22 PM.
Old 10-10-2015, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
What is the make of that engine? DOHC? Looks like a pretty late model car, not an old stove-bolt Chevy six. An engine that is always driven on short "grocery runs" won't have a chance to warm up properly, and will condense water vapors in the valve/cam covers, and this may cause this type of sludge in some non-synthetic motor oils.

I'd guess this engine had a bad head gasket. Do I see an Audi symbol in the far right side of this picture?

No clue. Like mentioned I didn't take those pics. Digital cameras and cellphones with cameras had a few decades to go when I was running into the sludge issues.

Also yep all these old ladies like I mentioned earlier were driving very short distances each time. House to corner store, house to gas station, house to church, etc.

Most probably drove 5 miles or less each trip.

They had sludge build up in the quaker state ones and exhaust rot/rust on ALL of them.


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