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hi aklim yeah what do you think about that? I assume it's from heat?
FWIW. My umbrellas came out 20 years ago but I think they were even colored. Maybe you had a lot of localized heat? Did it come out with oil burned out on it?
FWIW. My umbrellas came out 20 years ago but I think they were even colored. Maybe you had a lot of localized heat? Did it come out with oil burned out on it?
no when I pulled the valve covers off there was zero build up of any sort whatsoever but I have been doing frequent oil changes with oil that has detergent in it. My guess is this happened a while ago and maybe was associated with the heat that blew the gasket in the first place. It was like this when we bought it so who knows how long it's been like that anyway I took a micrometer to it and it was exactly the same as the others so I went ahead and reinstalled it.
I pulled the video off YouTube because that is not the right way to do it. It took me two hours to figure that effing stud out. The only way to do it is to either remove the wiper motor which I didn't want to do just create some other problem might have to fix, pull the nut off and zip strap all the loose wires and washers together and then use a stubby 14 mill to tighten the stude up, then put everything back and snug it up.
simple but for some reason it eluded me.
Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
here's a tip, for anybody like me who is a Newbie doing this, anything and every tip helps there is a stud that bolts onto the rear, or firewall side, of the driver side head it is a huge pain in the ****. Have a look at this video explains how to get it on and off.
no when I pulled the valve covers off there was zero build up of any sort whatsoever but I have been doing frequent oil changes with oil that has detergent in it. My guess is this happened a while ago and maybe was associated with the heat that blew the gasket in the first place. It was like this when we bought it so who knows how long it's been like that anyway I took a micrometer to it and it was exactly the same as the others so I went ahead and reinstalled it.
Weird. A valve umbrella that heats (assuming it was heat discolored) up like that and doesn't melt the valve stem seal.
definitely possible that a previous owner had that situation and they just reinstalled the umbrella. These were not the OEM valve seals I don't think so somebody has been here in the recent past. The metal shims head gaskets however I think were the originals
good evening guys, just dry fitting my intake manifold and I noticed that when I press the corner of the manifold by cylinder number eight I get just a tiny bit of rocking the other corners are fine but I thought I should bounce it off you guys.
good evening guys, just drive fitting my intake manifold and I noticed that when I press the corner of the manifold by cylinder number eight I get just a tiny bit of rocking the other corners are fine but I thought I should bounce it off you guys.
"drive" fit - ??? - if you mean "dry" fit, i'm assuming you mean "without gaskets?" can you measure how much rocking you are getting? I would think you would be OK if it's just a couple thousands. try it again with gaskets. my 2-cents, it's probably OK, but make sure you use plenty of sealant around the water passages at the front and rear of the manifold gaskets, and torque to spec.
"drive" fit - ??? - if you mean "dry" fit, i'm assuming you mean "without gaskets?" can you measure how much rocking you are getting? I would think you would be OK if it's just a couple thousands. try it again with gaskets. my 2-cents, it's probably OK, but make sure you use plenty of sealant around the water passages at the front and rear of the manifold gaskets, and torque to spec.
yah, i have become reliant on siri to dictate all my messages. it lets me do things 4x speed but ever since i dropped her in the toilet bowl i think my mic is a bit muffled so there is some lost.
this lengthy thread started out about seeping intake bolts.
im now putting the bolts back on and ive noticed 2 of them have cracked heads on them.
they are the oem torx head bolts and it looks like the crack on each bolt head started at one of the points in the torx and jaggey cracked down to the base of the head and out to the edge of the head.
so i went to the parts store where they know me by name now after allll this and they only had some grade 5 cap hex bolts. i was hoping for gr 8.
was actually nervous about grade 5 but our research at the counter led us to believe thatmost replacement intake bolt kits are grade 5 hex cap bolts with washers.
i got 2 of them and will put them against the firewall. the other 6 look just fine.
im using aviation permatex formagasket on the threads.
hi again. so just before i put my intake on, i wanted to double check my valve adjustment. i did the method suggested by joe c above. easy peezy, with a catch, you must ensure that tdc is 100% correct if you want to be totally accurate.
i didnt have a piston stop and was too lazy to build one and couldnt find one for sale. lovally. so i just put a screwdriver in and eyeballed it by hand with a loose screwdriver held by my hand.
well i really dont want to do this twice so i bit the bullet and made a piston stop using an old sparkplug.
used this bideo but i used a dremel cut disk instead of a hacksaw. easy peezy and i had a nut and bolt i could rig up after using my bench grinder to reduce the diameter of the bolt.
anyway, turns out my timing mark is absolutely bang on in between the two lines from doing the tdc location process using the piston shop.
here are pictures!
<br > the hb timing groove is right in the middle where it should be!<br ><br >
boo Ya! Thank you to 65 Ford on his YouTube channel for saving me some money that I need to save these days. This is a method for any DIY for less than seven dollars I'm testing my injectors both for leak down and for spray pattern. It's not perfect I know, and John at fuel injector connection is by far the best guy to send to from what I've read on the form. But I needed to save myself the money in Canada it cost me $600 round-trip down to John and I'm not even 100% percent sure if I have a problem with my injectors. This tells me if I have a leaking injectors or if my spray pattern is completely messed up it is hard using this method to check for flow rate comparison though I suppose it could be done if a person build a simple button switch.
just finished testing all eight injectors and I have zero leaks and the spray pattern more or less looks the same.
http://youtu.be/tskGLn0qp0I
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; 04-01-2016 at 11:52 PM.
boo Ya! Thank you to 65 Ford on his YouTube channel for saving me some money that I need to save these days. This is a method for any DIY for less than seven dollars I'm testing my injectors both for leak down and for spray pattern. It's not perfect I know, and John at fuel injector connection is by far the best guy to send to from what I've read on the form. But I needed to save myself the money in Canada it cost me $600 round-trip down to John and I'm not even 100% percent sure if I have a problem with my injectors. This tells me if I have a leaking injectors or if my spray pattern is completely messed up it is hard using this method to check for flow rate comparison though I suppose it could be done if a person build a simple button switch.
just finished testing all eight injectors and I have zero leaks and the spray pattern more or less looks the same.
It costs $600 to mail it to him? I just put it in a USPS box and send it regular mail. Not sure what the aerosol pressure is but I doubt it is 43 psi so at 10 psi, it might be ok but at 43, maybe not.
It costs $600 to mail it to him? I just put it in a USPS box and send it regular mail. Not sure what the aerosol pressure is but I doubt it is 43 psi so at 10 psi, it might be ok but at 43, maybe not.
The testing plus the mail and the conversion from the Canadian peso to the US dollar right now makes it C$600 yes. It's ridiculous we have all this oil and yet our dollar is worth sweet F all. 1.5 years ago we were at par! Nothing is changed up here other than the oil price, anyway I digress.
That's a good question Aklim and the results I found on the web quick web search is that the aerosol is around 40 to 70 psi so that sufficient to cause a leak I would think.
hey guys before I put the fuel rail back on I thought I would vacuum test my fuel pressure regulator. I have it sitting for the last few hours at 17 inch HG of vacuum. I don't know what inch HG is compared to psi but it does not appear to be losing any pressure I don't want to rupture the membrane.
refinished valve covers and eagle 1 etching cleaned runners plenum and intake. havnt etched the throttle body yet cause i dont know if it is pot metal or actual aluminum.
i am hooking up the ac now. should get it running before end of week!!!
then the money talks and the bs walks. did i do it right? did I ACTUALLY REBUILD THIS RIGHT????
we shall know sooooon.
<br >
Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
hey guys before I put the fuel rail back on I thought I would vacuum test my fuel pressure regulator. I have it sitting for the last few hours at 17 inch HG of vacuum. I don't know what inch HG is compared to psi but it does not appear to be losing any pressure I don't want to rupture the membrane.
well team. i have ffiinnaaaalllyyyy reached a point where i can come and post a successful result on this 85.
shmmary of what was wrong with the car:
-the intake gaskets were leaking ingesting both oil and coolant
- head gasket blown at 7 and 6
-valve stem seals leaking
- the module in the dizzy was toast when i re assembled so it was replaced.
-torque converter had grenaded and sent so much shrapnel into the system the cooler line was plugged. it was binding to the point where i couldnt turn it by hand. and i had to use two trucks to seperate the tc from the input shaft.
anyway, there were so many people who helped me out and i wanted to say thank you!
03-13-2016, 07:15 PM
