rusted fuel sender issue?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 405
Likes: 7
From: Raleigh NC
rusted fuel sender issue?
My fuel pump wasn't getting power when connected to the harness on the fuel sending unit therefore it was straight wired from the gas tank to the engine to power on with car ignition. I'm about to purchase a new fuel sending unit (going to replace pump too) and was wondering if because my current unit is so rusted the wire to power the pump was bad.....and when new fuel sender is installed and harness connected-----no more straight wiring??? Has anyone experienced that before? Thanks
Last edited by czarredd; Nov 16, 2015 at 05:40 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
1 - 2 seconds when the ignition is first turned on.
2 - When the engine is rotating.
If the car is just sitting there and not running there will be no power at the fuel pump.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 405
Likes: 7
From: Raleigh NC
Thanks as always for the info Cliff but I totally understand how power is applied to the fuel pump. My issue is knowing if its possible that the power wire to the fuel pump could be bad.....which is why my pump had to be straight wired for power. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this issue and had to power fuel pump this way.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
I would connect a 12 volt test light to the fuel pump power wire and turn on the ignition. The test light should light for 2 seconds if all is well. Disconnect the direct connection to the engine first...
Even if the fuel pump relay is bad the oil pressure switch should take over when oil pressure reaches 4 PSI.
Even if the fuel pump relay is bad the oil pressure switch should take over when oil pressure reaches 4 PSI.
Last edited by Cliff Harris; Nov 18, 2015 at 12:03 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,054
Likes: 120
From: AZ
You are aware (or not) that the pump/sender assembly is easily removed thru the filler lid opening with no tank removal needed. There's a tin of threads on this topic.
If there's big rust issues, I'd surely inspect inside the tank, however. the 'sock' filter's condition should give you some indication of severity.
If you retain the "direct" wiring, I'd suggest a rollover protection device to cutoff power in that event. While I'm a fan of factory design's comprehensiveness, shutoffs are not expensive and may be a lifesaver.
If there's big rust issues, I'd surely inspect inside the tank, however. the 'sock' filter's condition should give you some indication of severity.
If you retain the "direct" wiring, I'd suggest a rollover protection device to cutoff power in that event. While I'm a fan of factory design's comprehensiveness, shutoffs are not expensive and may be a lifesaver.
Last edited by whalepirot; Nov 18, 2015 at 12:16 PM.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 405
Likes: 7
From: Raleigh NC
You are aware (or not) that the pump/sender assembly is easily removed thru the filler lid opening with no tank removal needed. There's a tin of threads on this topic.
If there's big rust issues, I'd surely inspect inside the tank, however. the 'sock' filter's condition should give you some indication of severity.
If you retain the "direct" wiring, I'd suggest a rollover protection device to cutoff power in that event. While I'm a fan of factory design's comprehensiveness, shutoffs are not expensive and may be a lifesaver.
If there's big rust issues, I'd surely inspect inside the tank, however. the 'sock' filter's condition should give you some indication of severity.
If you retain the "direct" wiring, I'd suggest a rollover protection device to cutoff power in that event. While I'm a fan of factory design's comprehensiveness, shutoffs are not expensive and may be a lifesaver.