foreveraudio

took my c4 with afr heads and al the bells and whistles to have a leaky head gasket replaced, when I got the car back I was driving home noticed my temp which is usually at 202 or less even on a 100 degree day was not running at 210 while driving in 50 degree weather and lowers when stopped -

I never ran this high, coolant looks fine lower cooler temp switch is plugged in , I also noticed my heat quick working halfway on my way home , this place has been a nightmare I'm done with this shop, what could cause this that they could of done wrong, I looked everything over and I'm not seeing anything out of the ordinary, asap responses please , thanks

foreveraudio

l98 with aft heads fel pro 1256 intake manifold gaskets , lower temp switch with fan

antfarmer2

might just have air in the system burp it

Tom400CFI

"heat quick working" indicates to me, that there isn't enough coolant in the system. I'm assuming the heater FAN was still blowing...

foreveraudio

didn't check to see if fans are coming on, will check now and advise

antfarmer2

hope it's not the head gasket

WW7

Sounds like air in the system..The C4s can be a bugger to get purged, I have always had trouble with mine purging the first time ...Tomorrow morning check to see how low the coolant is and top off the tank , take it for another drive , then top off the tank again the next morning.. , .After 2 or 3 times doing this it should have gotten all the air out of the system..Or you could take it back to the shop and make them do the job right.........WW

DanielRicany

The way I bled mine out when I had hot running issues with my AFR heads was jack up the right front of the car, with the car at operating temp, heat on and the rad cap off, have someone rev and hold the engine at 3000 RPMs and add coolant when needed. Should only need to be held there for 1 minute or less. Make sure to install the radiator cap before releasing the gas pedal otherwise there will be a HUGE mess.

BOOT77

Could be something simple like they put the wrong t-stat in.

Tom400CFI

What would the T-stat have to do with the "heat quick working"?

BOOT77

Tom this is not a popularity constest

Tom400CFI

You're absolutely right. It is a forum to provide HELPFUL advice to people who ask questions. WAG's aren't that helpful.

Sticking to the topic, I'll ask again; how would the T-stat cause the "heat quick working"?

BOOT77

It could be more than one thing wrong and the problems aren't connected other than the shop cause them. "heat quit working" may be electronic!

Tom400CFI

You're right; It could be.

That is why I made my comment to the OP about the heater fan working. I don't think he understood it though.

HlhnEast

I would also go with low coolant. The OP doesnt mention the year but if its an LT car I would check the coolant level first. If it is low I would think about another shop and try and find someone who is familiar with these cars. May cost a little more but knowing your car is fixed right justifies the extra. Got to be a good Vette mechanic in DFW.

WW7

His profile shows an 88 Corvette ...WW

Purple92

The issue is quite likely air in the system (the no heat symptom), but it could be a flow issue with the Water Pump not flowing enough/any coolant, or multiple problems that happened as a result of the head R&R. As the other posters have suggested - I'd probably start by trying to burp the system (I've had some luck with using a cooling system pressure tester to put about 10 psi on the overflow tank - that tends to push coolant into areas that have trapped air in them.) If a thorough burping doesn't solve the temp problem - I'd start by checking the temp of the coolant at the upper rad hose connection with an "IR Temp gun" - they're not super accurate - but the temp at the rad hose outlet should be in decent agreement with the temp gauge. What's the temp at the radiator outlet compared to the radiator inlet - if it isn't cooler at the outlet either the fan isn't running - or there isn't a lot of flow through the radiator.... If the temp you're seeing at the upper radiator hose outlet doesn't agree with the temp you're seeing in the car - - the temp sensor might be the problem (it was probably disconnected / removed during the head R&R). Also use the temp gun to check the temp of the two heater hoses at the firewall - if they're the same temp and your heat is on - that tells you that you have little or no flow through that heater core.

If burping the cooling system doesn't fix the problem - you need to do some real diagnosing to see where to go next.


GOOD LUCK !!!

foreveraudio

ok so update drove the car for a hour today 59 degrees out temp stayed between 175 and 189 - however I was unable to drive it much because that shop must of not did somethin right my car now is missing, some pings coming from left side upon high acceleration - and stalls when stopping, they don't wanna touch the car anymore because they told me that's not their speciality, so I will be taking them to court next week - I'm so pissed - so now its sitting in the garage, fans do work by the way, everything basic that iv checked seem fine -

Purple92

Tomorrow morning after you've had a little while to calm down - spend a few minutes checking the plug wires on all the cylinders, check for codes, and spend a minute or two looking for anything that looks unusual.

It's always extremely frustrating to get your car back from being worked on and having it either not fixed, or not running right. Most of us have been there at least a time or two. Hopefully it'll be something minor, that you can deal with yourself !

antfarmer2

I would not drive it untill you do some research would sure check everything they did. cheak torque spark wires and valve ajustment